When is it just to hot?

[American Viking]

Originally Posted by ssnsvibe09

I think mine draws up to 30 to 40 amps easily a couple of horse power.

I remember when my one ford was burning up the oem fans, the inrush current to overcome a "stalled" armature was 75amps, once running it would draw 35 amps at the low speed, and 45 amps at the high speed.
The aftermarket fan I finally replaced it with moved as much air as the stock fan did on its high speed, but drew only 30 amps when running.
In this case, the OEM fan was not the best designed part for the job.

[Baltothewolf]

Lots of stuff to respond to. First off, my stock temp gauge in my car is broken, it will fluctuate wildy sometimes but most of the time just sits at dead cold. I pulled the 2 side blocks off today and saw a very noticeable decrease in temps. Only time I broke 210F was when I climed the dreaded Cajon pass (6% grade) where I saw about 220-230F. I'm going to pull the grill block off all together and see what kind of numbers I get tomorrow, then draw an overall conclusion. I think also the fact that nothing has been done to the radiator in well over 5 years has something to do with my temps.

On the other note, I have no idea how to tell the difference between rads, this young blood is still learning.

[Cobb]

You must be driving rather fast? If you got a low chin spoiler or air dam there should be a vacuum effect sucking air through the front openings of your car. Maybe the air is getting sucked in elsewhere? Blocking the front of the grill helps the air go around vs through the car and should still allow enough air for cooling. Of course the cooling system maybe full of rust, the antifreeze is shot and the t stat ma not be opening all the way.

[American Viking]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

On the other note, I have no idea how to tell the difference between rads, this young blood is still learning.

That is pretty simple to determine.
If the tanks are top and bottom, with the radiator cap somewhere in the middle then its likely a vertical rad.
If the tanks are left and right, with the cap at on end, then it is a cross flow design.

I just googled it and it looks like your Camry has a vertical flow radiator.
Time to get that rad flushed and the coolant replaced with Evans or Engine Ice.

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by Cobb

You must be driving rather fast? If you got a low chin spoiler or air dam there should be a vacuum effect sucking air through the front openings of your car. Maybe the air is getting sucked in elsewhere? Blocking the front of the grill helps the air go around vs through the car and should still allow enough air for cooling. Of course the cooling system maybe full of rust, the antifreeze is shot and the t stat ma not be opening all the way.

Before I removed the 2 sides I was seeing ~230 at 55mph on the freeway.

Originally Posted by American Viking

That is pretty simple to determine.
If the tanks are top and bottom, with the radiator cap somewhere in the middle then its likely a vertical rad.
If the tanks are left and right, with the cap at on end, then it is a cross flow design.

I just googled it and it looks like your Camry has a vertical flow radiator.
Time to get that rad flushed and the coolant replaced with Evans or Engine Ice.

Yea I do suspect the rad being old is what's causing the heat issues, as I said before, it's been at least 5 years since the radiator stuff has been changed. So Evans or Engine ice is the best antifreeze for my car? I read a tutorial for flushing my system and the guy recommended Toyota Red.


On another note, I'm not going to get good readings today, I'll have super heavy headwinds and it's chilly outside today, typical.

[American Viking]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

Yea I do suspect the rad being old is what's causing the heat issues, as I said before, it's been at least 5 years since the radiator stuff has been changed. So Evans or Engine ice is the best antifreeze for my car? I read a tutorial for flushing my system and the guy recommended Toyota Red.

I've run Evans in VW's, Honda's, Honda motorcycles, Kawasaki motorcycles, Ford's, GM's, Nissan's, BMW's and more without problems.
Its worked perfectly in particularly coolant sensitive machines like Honda bikes, the VW's and the BMW's..
What you have to look at is the following, is Toyota/Honda/BMW/VW/GM/Mopar/etc.. going to tell you about a coolant that doesn't have to be replaced because of additive package degradation??
I've run two cars more than 150,000 miles on Evans with no coolant system issues.
I have yet to have to change a water pump on any of my Honda motorcycles (which are known for failing seals even with Honda's own coolant).

[redpoint5]

Originally Posted by Baltothewolf

Yea I do suspect the rad being old is what's causing the heat issues, as I said before, it's been at least 5 years since the radiator stuff has been changed.

I'm not going to discourage you from doing maintenance on your car, but coolant is usually good for 10+ years. In fact, I've never replaced coolant before and have never had an issue with the cooling system.

That said, I'll be flushing the original fluid from my 2001 CBR600 this year.

[Baltothewolf]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

I'm not going to discourage you from doing maintenance on your car, but coolant is usually good for 10+ years. In fact, I've never replaced coolant before and have never had an issue with the cooling system.

That said, I'll be flushing the original fluid from my 2001 CBR600 this year.

Thing is, the car sat for 7 years of it's life, from 2004-2008 then from 2010-2013. I can't get ahold of the original owner but I assume nothing was done to it ever.

[American Viking]

Originally Posted by redpoint5

I'm not going to discourage you from doing maintenance on your car, but coolant is usually good for 10+ years. In fact, I've never replaced coolant before and have never had an issue with the cooling system.

That said, I'll be flushing the original fluid from my 2001 CBR600 this year.

10 years, I remember when it was recommended that you change it every year.

That said, when you got to replace the coolant in your cbr, if your not going to use Engine Ice or Evans, make sure you use the honda coolant and distilled water when you refill it.