A work in progress.

[euromodder]

Well, time for a little update.

These last few tanks on winter tyres, and with weather improving, I've been able to nearly match my best tank on summer rubbers.

The frequent DPF regenerations continue, and it's always a pain to work off the swift increase in average fuel consumption due to these regenerations.

Last Thursday, I decided to check if the engine threw any fault codes during the process when to my surprise the regeneration stopped - no fault codes either.
That's quite unusual after only 5 km, as it usually takes about 8-16 km to complete the cycle.

I'll have to try that again during the next cycle.

Maybe the SG isn't soo passive after all ...

[Piwoslaw]

Good that winter didn't hurt your FE too much

That is a weird thing you had with the SG & DPF regen. Maybe it was a coincidence? Or maybe it got fixed?

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

Weird indeed.
I hit the SG 's buttons to scan again today during the regeneration - and again the process stopped after 5 km (3 miles).

Bummer, it must have been a coincidence.

I let the process run the third time - as it needs to run periodically - then on the 4th regeneration cycle, I tried to stop it by using the SG's scanning function again, but no joy


What surprises me is that the Eolys fluid used during the regeneration hasn't run out yet.
I read that Peugeot originally intended to make the intervals 75-80.000 km, but that proved to be too long, and they then opted for 60.000km (as on my Volvo.

With the frequency and duration of the regenerations, I'd expect to run out of Eolys fluid well before those 60.000km.
Trouble is, I don't know wether or not it was filled up when Hägar was at the dealership for 3 weeks.

One of the known causes for continuing regenerations, is a failure in the Additive Dosing Module - the ADM being responsible for injecting the Eolys fluid into the diesel during the regenerations.
If it doesn't work properly, the regen is not effective.

[euromodder]

After 2 record tanks @ 4.16 L/100km (56.5 and 56.7 mpg), Hägar is going in for some maintenance and will be getting Vekke's Tungsten-sulfide in the oil.

The record tanks are due to one simple thing : driving even slower on the motorway while drafting trucks (at a safe distance) as often as possible.
See 100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com ; # 35 :
Find/adopt a 'blocker' for slower freeway speeds
I've been down to 85 kph / 53 mph quite often, and it shows instantly !

Something else I've been doing more is driving 30 kph / 20mph in 4th at idle rpm, rather than using 3rd and CC.
Works only when the road is level, or going downhill.
There is only a limited distance I can do this, on only one way on my regular commute, so I don't think it'll affect my mileage a lot.


4.2 L/100km - 56 mpg used to be my mpg-target


The garage doing the maintenance will be reporting on the level of the soot filter's additive tank. I'd expect the tank to be nearly dry with the many regenerations of the DPF.
If it's not, then it's quite likely not dosing the catalyst to reduce the temperatures required to burn off the soot, and the root cause of the too frequent regeneration problems.

[euromodder]

I'm sorry to say can't spot any beneficial effects of the Tungstensulfide in the engine oil.
(1 gram / liter)

Hägar doesn't seem to like temperatures of 28°C and above any longer - though I've driven in them with the grillblock on before.
Coolant temperature can go up to 95, with intake temperatures between 40 and 50°C - resulting in rough running, as if the DPF is regenerating.

I've ordered some dimple tape just for fun. With a bit of luck it may even work.
The dimples will go on the mirror housings and the A-frame [the V50 has a lot of windnoise there], the windshield to roof transition, and the rather round rear bumper.

[euromodder]

Hägar developed a new quirk.
He's mixing in unwanted hot air with outside air, making things too hot inside.
As a result, I'm having to ride with the windows rolled down a bit, or switch on the AC to keep things cool.

I first noticed it when I found the car very hot inside despite the outside temps only being around 22°C, then stepping out into what was noticeably colder air, even without windchill.

This Volvo is more like a disaster in progress

[Piwoslaw]

I think 1-3 hours under the dashboard should find and solve the problem, probably a ventilation flap not closing, maybe the servo which controls it pooped out. Thankfully it's not another episode of the engine/DPF series.

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by Piwoslaw

I think 1-3 hours under the dashboard should find and solve the problem, probably a ventilation flap not closing

This model range has a history of blowing hot air ... usually with the AC on.

It could be due to malfunctioning air valves, but it could also be a calibration issue with them.

[320touring]

Originally Posted by euromodder

Hägar developed a new quirk.
He's mixing in unwanted hot air with outside air, making things too hot inside.
As a result, I'm having to ride with the windows rolled down a bit, or switch on the AC to keep things cool.

I first noticed it when I found the car very hot inside despite the outside temps only being around 22°C, then stepping out into what was noticeably colder air, even without windchill.

This Volvo is more like a disaster in progress

Gallon (Imperial) of Optimax plus a match, then get an old Pug 205/306 1.9 XUD

[euromodder]

Originally Posted by 320touring

then get an old Pug 205/306 1.9 XUD

I had a 306 DT - same crap.

Next car can't be PSA , PSA-engined , PSA-built nor can it be blue

Companies that have ties with PSA (like Toyota, BMW through MINI) will be frowned upon ...