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Old 11-01-2008, 08:42 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Looks good to me!

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Old 11-01-2008, 09:08 PM   #12 (permalink)
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BORK! - '89 Volvo 240 DL Wagon
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Ordered
+ Red segment LED voltmeter
+ Cheap 12v to 5v DC-DC converter (to power voltmeter)
+ pair of high-bright yellow turn signals to replace the front turn signal indicator bulbs.
+ replacement turn signal relay

Hunting for
+ Good deal on a 36V-72V IN 12V Out DC-DC Converter

Waiting to order
+ Bike Computer

The only thing I don't like about Bike computers is how small most of them are. But they're the only option I have.

Last edited by captainslug; 11-01-2008 at 09:15 PM..
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Old 11-02-2008, 09:39 AM   #13 (permalink)
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9 watts of tail-lights! Make sure you don't blind the guy behind you when you hit your brakes at night!

As for small DC/DC converters, I have one very similar to this one currently posted on Ebay.

DC-to-DC Converter 100W 48V to 3.3V, 12V, 12V Very Nice - eBay (item 220301819466 end time Nov-02-08 17:13:02 PST)



I was able to get mine for $10, and the guy had a couple of them, so I bought two. The original is on my electric motorcycle, and I am planning to use the other one on my Citicar.

This one posted has two 50 watt outputs on it. Maybe run one to your headlight, and one to everything else, or both to your battery.
That 3.3 V output might also be useful for directly running LEDs?
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Old 11-02-2008, 03:49 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bennelson View Post
That 3.3 V output might also be useful for directly running LEDs?
I find that I get the most consistent results by powering the LEDs from 12V with a 510ohm resistor. Also saves me from having to redo any wiring from the switches.

I just found a treasure trove of XB-600 related work over at visforvoltage forums and it looks like you can get 30mph at 60v and 36mph at 72v. Probably even better for me since I'm at the low end of the weight scale.

All I have to do to increase the output of the controller from 70amp to 95amps is shunt a few connections on the controller itself. This will save me $40.

If I want to go up to 72v I would need to replace all of the mosfets.

Based on the experiences of others I probably do not need to replace the DC-DC converter either. I am still going to be replacing the stock voltmeter, speedometer, and turn signal relay though.

All very good news because now all that is left for me to purchase is an extra battery and a new charger.

Last edited by captainslug; 11-04-2008 at 12:14 AM..
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Old 11-04-2008, 05:19 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I performed the shunt mod on the controller yesterday. The acceleration improvement was easily noticed even without a working speedometer onboard.

Today I had to ride home in the wet again. Something most XB-600 are not willing to do, but I've done fairly frequently because I put a good deal of effort into water-proofing everything.
I forgot to put my camera in my bag before leaving so I didn't take any in-progress shots unfortunately.

I took the front wheel off the front fork and made a bracket out of sheet aluminum to hold the sensor. I then drilled and tapped a hole in the rim to screw the magnet into.

Since the bike computer turns itself on and off I don't really need free access to its buttons all the time. So I installed it into the gauge console where the voltmeter used to be.

I soldered leads onto the contacts of one of the panel illumination bulbs and wired in some red LEDs to illuminate the bike computer since it doesn't include a backlight. I also replaced the indicator bulbs with LEDs by simply adding a resistor to them, heat-shrinking the resistor, then wedging the LED into the original socket.


After measuring the wheel radius with me sitting on the bike and then inputing the circumference from that measurement, my top speed on level ground is displaying at 19.5mph. The stock speedometer was optimistically off by about 4mph.

What is coming next will depend on what shows up in the mail first.

Last edited by captainslug; 11-04-2008 at 05:24 PM..
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Old 11-17-2008, 05:28 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Got quite a bit done today.
Here's a better look underneath the seat at the frame bar I made to replace the seat bucket.

Adapter plate that secures the frame bar to the old seat latch.

Machine some 3-inch aluminum spacers and a side plate to hold the 5th battery in place. I then wired an IEC320 extension inbetween the 48v pack and the motor controller power input.

The 60V charger to replace the 48V one.

I still need to add replacement turn signals.

I ran some tests prior to starting to charge the 5th battery so these speeds represent a running voltage that's likely lower than that of a fully charged set of batteries.

New top speed on level ground @ 62.5 volts: 23 mph
Old top speed on level ground: 18mph

New top speed downhill: 29mph
Old top downhill: 24 mph

Better than the top speed is the shorter acceleration curve and the improvement in hill climbing ability. Even when climbing steep hills that used to lower my speed to 9mph, I'm now climbing them all at 16mph.

Will update with a finalized list of speeds tomorrow. I'm starting to get to NEV performance levels. All with a sub-$1,500 e-bike.
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Old 11-19-2008, 05:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I just finished some more extensive reworking of the gauge panel.
+ Ground off the excess plastic from the gauge console bucket to make room for the new parts
+ Rewired the turn signal indicator LEDs
+ Replaced the turn signal relay with one made specifically for LED turn signals
+ Wired in a dc-dc converter for the led segment display voltmeter
+ Made a mounting plate for the voltmeter and original speedometer face

I'll take more pictures of the work I did inside tomorrow, because right now I'm really tired of opening and closing the center console.


I might still have space to put the original speedometer back in.
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Old 11-19-2008, 10:54 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Started machining parts to make LED turn signals because I don't like any of the after-market ones. I will be using ultra-bright white LEDs through fluorescent orange acrylic lenses.
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:46 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The wiring is kind of a mess, but at least I have everything labeled at each connector.
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Old 12-01-2008, 05:36 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Hooray! Finished making my replacement LED turn signals. Turns out the original turn signal relay CANNOT be replaced with a standard automotive type. So I ended up desoldering the annoying speaker from the original one and putting it back in.

Arrays of ultrabright 3mm white LEDs mounted in white polyethylene behind fluorescent amber acrylic.




I was using a tripod and a handheld light this time so the photos turned out much better.

Tomorrow I will be using an angle grinder to cut the bike pedal axle off.

Video of the turn signals


Last edited by captainslug; 12-01-2008 at 06:35 PM..
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