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Old 02-01-2015, 07:24 PM   #241 (permalink)
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Per the UltraGauge manual:

Quote:
"Fuel trim refers to the fine tune control of fuel delivery and specifically indicates adjustments made dynamically to the base fuel table to obtain the proper ratio of fuel to air. The fuel-to-air ratio is adjusted by increasing or decreasing the time fuel injectors are open. Note that fuel injectors are either fully open or fully closed – there is no variable opening.

…Fuel trims are expressed in percentages with a range of -100% to 99.2% of nominal. Positive values indicate a lean condition exists and the injector is left open longer to compensate, thus adding more fuel. Negative values indicate a rich condition exists and the injectors are closed more quickly thus reducing the amount of fuel."
I don't think you have a problem at all. Your car has a table to know how much fuel to supply. The value is just a percentage difference from the value on the table. According to the second paragraph, the ECU is doing exactly what it should be doing. Your WAI is creating a rich condition, so it is scaling back the fuel injection (closing the injector sooner). This results in a negative value on your UltraGauge.

From the details you've provided, it seems like everything is working perfectly. How's your MPG at the pump?

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Old 02-01-2015, 07:57 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Did using the WAI improve your average mpg?
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Originally Posted by jeff88 View Post
How's your MPG at the pump?
Funny you should ask... I just got home from the pump... 59.65mpg, which historically is below normal for my car. But that's not the way to reads the number because I have been reporting in my fuel log for a month or two that I have scaled back my hypermiling. FWIW, this tank is higher than the last, and the wheel skirts and WAI only were installed on the last half of the tank. Though, that does not prove the mods are the reason for the increase. No "post hoc ergo propter hoc" fallacy here!

On the AFR reading... if I understand, even though my UG is saying 6.2% lean long term fuel trim, the car is running at stoich but the injectors are pulsing for shorter durations than the OEM fuel tables normally would have them pulse. That last phrase is the key, because it means I am at stoich and using less fuel than normal. All the throttling and pumping losses reduction benefits are presumably still real. It is both less fuel and lower pumping losses (theoretically). Got it. Thx.
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Old 02-02-2015, 01:07 PM   #243 (permalink)
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I'm wondering when you get a full tank with the WAI, if you'll see better than a 1MPG improvement. I guess only time will tell.

If you're worried about AFRs, you could get a sensor and a dash gauge. There was an AutoSpeed article I saw recently which showed how to use a stock O2 sensor to see what the AFR is. I'll try to find it for you.
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Old 03-14-2015, 05:16 PM   #244 (permalink)
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Fuel pressure and cylinder compression test results

The second new fuel pressure regulator seems to work fine. Problems have disappeared again. But because of my recent fueling issues and persistent fuel-fouled (or oil-fouled) spark plugs that also show lean-burn flaky white/gray residue, I decided to test fuel pressure and compression carefully. Here are the results.

Fuel Pressure: PASSING

Priming pump without running engine: 42 psi (38-46 psi is normal range in Honda FSM), but the fuel pressure quickly drops to 38psi and then slowly drops slightly lower than 38.

Running the engine with vacuum tube connected = 31psi steady, jumps to 34 for a second when I hit throttle hard.

Disconnect vacuum tube, pinch it, and run engine = 42 psi steady and then back down to 31 when I reconnect vacuum hose to FPR. Disconnect again and back to 42psi. (Again, Honda FSM says I should see 38-46psi with the vacuum hose disconnected.)

No more idle or fuel trim trouble (so far), even when warmed until fan runs, even when driven 25-30 miles straight.

Compression test: PASSING

Honda FSM says compression should be 184psi (nominal), 135psi (minimum), and no variation greater than 28 psi between cylinders.

Cyl #1: (179) (170, 165, 167)
Cyl #2: (169) (165, 167, 165)
Cyl #3: (174) (171, 170, 171)
Cyl #4: (170) (173, 173, 172)

The parentheses group separate connections of the tester and commas separate multiple tests during one connection of the tester. I connected the test twice to each cyl and tested each cyl a total of 4 times.

If I am burning or leaking any oil, it must be quite little.

QUESTION: Even though these numbers are fairly good, should I do a "wet" compression test just to see what happens? Would it yield valuable information as to whether the compression drop is rings or valves?
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:48 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
The second new fuel pressure regulator seems to work fine. Problems have disappeared again. But because of my recent fueling issues and persistent fuel-fouled (or oil-fouled) spark plugs that also show lean-burn flaky white/gray residue, I decided to test fuel pressure and compression carefully. Here are the results.

Fuel Pressure: PASSING

Priming pump without running engine: 42 psi (38-46 psi is normal range in Honda FSM), but the fuel pressure quickly drops to 38psi and then slowly drops slightly lower than 38.

Running the engine with vacuum tube connected = 31psi steady, jumps to 34 for a second when I hit throttle hard.

Disconnect vacuum tube, pinch it, and run engine = 42 psi steady and then back down to 31 when I reconnect vacuum hose to FPR. Disconnect again and back to 42psi. (Again, Honda FSM says I should see 38-46psi with the vacuum hose disconnected.)

No more idle or fuel trim trouble (so far), even when warmed until fan runs, even when driven 25-30 miles straight.

Compression test: PASSING

Honda FSM says compression should be 184psi (nominal), 135psi (minimum), and no variation greater than 28 psi between cylinders.

Cyl #1: (179) (170, 165, 167)
Cyl #2: (169) (165, 167, 165)
Cyl #3: (174) (171, 170, 171)
Cyl #4: (170) (173, 173, 172)

The parentheses group separate connections of the tester and commas separate multiple tests during one connection of the tester. I connected the test twice to each cyl and tested each cyl a total of 4 times.

If I am burning or leaking any oil, it must be quite little.

QUESTION: Even though these numbers are fairly good, should I do a "wet" compression test just to see what happens? Would it yield valuable information as to whether the compression drop is rings or valves?
compression test is fine.
pressure drops to less than 10% of origuinal value.
There is a difference of 5% difference between cylinders. one mallor difference may need repairs.

Why using 5w30 or 0W30 oil? This shortening the useful life of the engine.

your engine needs an oil 10w40 to have maximum protection to normal operating temperature.
also can be used: 5w40 15W40.

if you change the oil 10w40. give greater compression engine in the test cylinder.

if the rings are damaged. white or blue smoke is seen. speed climbing to the top.

if smoke appears when changing gear. or when the car dropped on a slope without pressing the accelerator is valve seals.

I think your engine is in good compression.

on the fuel pressure.

when the tank is less than 1/4 of the total jerks begin to appear. do not leave the warehouse within 1/4.

Do you feel the same?

Here gasoline is mixed with 5% bioethanol. in the future will be 10%.

Prove e85 ethanol mixture. and the principle works well. but after a few tanks start jerking.
I think the fuel pump is not suitable for use bioethanol. It may be that if this damaged fuel pump.

to test the ethanol e85 change the ecu program.

without adjusting the ecu. can be used a mixture containing 30% e85.

with more than 30% e85. the fault engine light comes on. by lean.

if its fuel has a lot bioethanol. You can raise the fuel pressure. You can resize the injectors. also compensates for lack of fuel. if this is the problem you can ask me.

before had a honda civic esi 1994. D16Z6 engine.
models are different. the motors are identical.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:30 PM   #246 (permalink)
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Looks good to me (fuel pressure and compression). No symptoms as before.

regards
mech
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Old 03-25-2015, 01:00 PM   #247 (permalink)
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I was pretty pleased and relieved with the dry compression test. They're pretty close to each other and to stock, considering this car has 227,000 US miles on it. I decided against the wet compression test for now. I'm wrestling with a stuck oilpan and the heat-gun shaping of my wheel skirts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by herberpower View Post
...Why using 5w30 or 0W30 oil? This shortening the useful life of the engine....
I rarely use 0w30... and actually haven't in probably 2 years. But 5w30 is actually what Honda calls for in this car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by herberpower View Post
...on the fuel pressure.

when the tank is less than 1/4 of the total jerks begin to appear. do not leave the warehouse within 1/4.

Do you feel the same? ...
It did show the same symptoms, near empty tank or full tank. The second replacement fuel pressure gauge seems to have solved it so far.

A point of reference for EM readers in the USA: the Autozone fuel pressure regulator failed within two weeks. When I did a warrantee replacement at Autozone, I opened the box for the new one to check it out. Inside was a clearly used and damaged regulator. The item I have installed now came from O'Reilley. Just sayin' ... in fairness, I should say O'Reilley rented me two faulty pressure testers before getting a new one to me. One clerk even tried to charge me for one of 'em. Manager fixed that. Nonethelss, I prefer O'Reilley.

James
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:59 AM   #248 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
I rarely use 0w30... and actually haven't in probably 2 years. But 5w30 is actually what Honda calls for in this car.

James
if the manufacturer recommends 5w30 not change .

10w40 is recommended here .
the engine may be different.
or climate may be warmer .
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Old 03-27-2015, 09:15 PM   #249 (permalink)
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Btw, everyone, changing the leaking oil pan gasket on a car that has not had the oil pan off ever in 17 years and a quarter-million US miles can be a pain in the ass! Lol

I am the energizer bunny... still going...
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Old 03-27-2015, 10:29 PM   #250 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herberpower View Post
if the manufacturer recommends 5w30 not change .

10w40 is recommended here .
the engine may be different.
or climate may be warmer .
His climate is much warmer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by California98Civic View Post
I was pretty pleased and relieved with the dry compression test. They're pretty close to each other and to stock, considering this car has 227,000 US miles on it. I decided against the wet compression test for now. I'm wrestling with a stuck oilpan and the heat-gun shaping of my wheel skirts.



I rarely use 0w30... and actually haven't in probably 2 years. But 5w30 is actually what Honda calls for in this car.



It did show the same symptoms, near empty tank or full tank. The second replacement fuel pressure gauge seems to have solved it so far.

A point of reference for EM readers in the USA: the Autozone fuel pressure regulator failed within two weeks. When I did a warrantee replacement at Autozone, I opened the box for the new one to check it out. Inside was a clearly used and damaged regulator. The item I have installed now came from O'Reilley. Just sayin' ... in fairness, I should say O'Reilley rented me two faulty pressure testers before getting a new one to me. One clerk even tried to charge me for one of 'em. Manager fixed that. Nonethelss, I prefer O'Reilley.

James
In general all parts cone from the same batch of 3rd party vendors. I manage an autozone store and can tell you to shop where the good car people are, not by parts.

If the next one fails I would try oem honda. I also question the strength of your fuel pump. A regulator is a simple device you may have contaminants getting past the filter

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