Metro Buying Guide

[pint]

After lots of research on an "new" car, I keep coming back to a Metro. However, I know nothing about them. I'm pretty versed in Honda's, Toyota's, old Chevy's, etc, but no Metro! Is there a "buyers guide" that anyone has created? I'm thinking 1996 or newer so I can use a ScanGuage. Here's what I'm after:

Is there a "best" year?

Is there a common problem area? (Transmission, engine, suspension, electrical, etc)

What is the rim/tire size and offset? I ask because I would like to find a nice looking, light weight aftermarket new/used rim. Along the lines of a Honda Civic VX rim.

Do most have A/C?

Was cruise control an option? Not to be petty, but I drive the open highway A LOT for work!

How comfy are the seats after 3-4 hours? Has anyone EASILY (no welding) changed them out for a more comfy seat? Again, I drive 25-30K per year!

Do they have enough power to get up the mountain passes without getting run over?

I want the mpg's, but are there any inexpensive performance mods that don't hurt mileage to much? Cylinder head, exhaust, etc?

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn!

[Will]

Well, here are your problem spots on all Metros: Dashboard fade (who cares) and lower control arms rusting out. This is very bad because the car will come apart! I would inspect the control arms of any potential Metro very carefully!!!

1.0L 3cyl Metro: These have problems dropping a cyl. Usually it is #2, or #1. This could be due to the design of the EGR sys. or the PCV sys. Here is a good build thread on the 1.0L to give you an idea. It's a pretty simple engine:
Mullet's Metro Project

Most 1.0Ls did not come with a/c due to the lack of engine power, but you can occasionally find them. Cruise control was an option you may or may not find.

The 1.3L was a bit more stable than the 1.0 and had more power, but did not have near the MPGs of the 3 cylinders of screamin" fury.

Do not buy an automatic trans. The MPGs were down in the high 30s, and they did not have and Overdrive! The manual 5 speed is the way to go!

All of the 96 and newer had 13" wheels, and the seats were not too bad, at least a lot better than the early Metros. I drive right at 80 miles a day and have no complaints.

[pint]

Thanks for the info Will. I won't buy anything without the 5 speed. Unfortunately, no A/C would be a deal killer. It gets hot in CO and I sometimes spend 6 or more hours in the car and must look "presentable" to my clients!

[pint]

Anyone else with feedback. Just trying to learn. Hopefully soon I will be able to contribute, not just ask questions!

[Will]

Honestly, and I hate to say it, if image for clients is a concern I would not look at a Metro. I would think maybe a nice CRX or if $$$ is not the big deal breaker, a Honda Insight.

[Hacksaw]

I think 13 inch rims and tires started showing up during '95 redesign, that's what I have. I would suggest sticking with a 5-speed as well, however, the '97 HB that I just bought squeaked out 39.61 mpg with tires that had about 20psi in 'em...it's a 4cylinder automatic too!

I agree rust is the main buying factor...but look at the radiator core support and rocker panels too, not just where the lower control arms mount to. Don't concern yourself with not being Geo-knowledgeable...they are about as basic as a car can get and super easy to work on. Heck, any normal-sized guy could lift the engine out of the engine bay if they HAD to.

Hope you find a good one. Maybe you could even consider traveling to south west states to fins a rust free Metro.

Hacksaw.

[akcapeco]

The seats are suprisingly comfortable.

Check for worn wheel bearings: common problem.

The dashboard problem isn't fade, it's gross deterioration. If you care about that, buy a post-1998 and you'll have no problem.

[metroschultz]

Most of your southern cars have A/C
Also the further south you go the less you worry about rust.
S.

[pint]

More great info! Thanks everyone. I have no problem going to NM or AZ if need be. I have seem a few on Craigslist today in CO with AC. As far as image, I don't really care. Most of my clients don't see my car, but if I walk in soaked after driving 2 hours with no AC, they may not be happy! I would love a CRX, I used to have one. The only problem is I need to haul 2-3 kids a few times a week and don't want to be forced into driving my Land Cruiser.

[Johnny Mullet]

Like stated above, the most important thing is to check for rust in the lower control arm mount area even if the car is down South because some of those cars are from up north.

A 3 cylinder 5 speed 1998-2000 Chevy Metro with A/C should not be that hard to find. Getting a 4 door or a Hatchback is up to you, but I prefer the hatchback look and the usable room inside. I do not think you will find cruise on a Metro factory installed. I never seen one yet, but have seen aftermarket units installed. The seats on older models were horrible, but newer seats from the 1995+ era are much better.

If you drive the mountains, then you can expect the 3 cylinder to be somewhat weak especially if the A/C is on, but if it's running properly, then you should not have too much trouble. It's a commuter car and that's all.

If you get one and want more power, you can install a 10 degree advance cam gear available from 3Tech and this will boost the power. There are also exhaust upgrades you can do also.

Good luck on your search!

[pint]

If I find a Metro with the control arm are rot, is it to be avoided, or can it be repaired? Is the rust typically on the frame, the control arm, or both?

[Roman]

Here some tips from the Dutch Suzuki tuning site. I try to translate

- Like already said, look for rust under the car and by the wheels
- Allways look in day light and dry wheater
- Look if you see any color differents (this is mostly a sign of a crashed car rebuild)
- Look at the front and the lights. If you see dot's at the front it's a sign of speeding.
- Look at the pedals. When they wear-out ( dont know if this is the right word). It's a signs that the car is used a lot. Like more that 100.000 km
- Look under the carpet if it's dry
- Use all electric equikment. And test all.
- Look if the engine is cold when you test it. A warm engine is a sign that they started it before you came and is a sign of a coldstarting problem
- Look at the exhaust by a cold start. When it's smoking blue it's a sign of oil leaking.
- Control all liquids.
- Cool water may be colored but there must be no oil in it.
- Look at the engine and treansmission. If you see much oil there could be some leaking.
- Controle the tyres. If they not wear equal there is a problem whit the wheelgeometry or also a sign of a crash.
- Make a test ride and check if you feel any trillings when breaking.
- Try to pull-out whit the 5th gear. When he's going is not blokking there a wear-out coupler.
- Look if the window at the drivers side will close correctly
- While doing test-ride drive some corners and listen if you hear any tikking sound. This is a sign of a (dictonary didn't found that word: homokineet). Here's a pic of what i mean whit Homokineet:


And remember this is for a swift but they almost like the Geo. And also remember i translated it from dutch

[FunkSkunk]

Wow, nice job on the translation! I believe the 'Homokneiophaolchings' that were mentioned are the CV's. Basically any small front wheel drive car has these and if during a tight turn you hear a popping sound that means they need to be replaced. .02

[Roman]

Tnx. Translate dutch to english for a german is just like fun

[FunkSkunk]

Alright all you Metro Masters! How many miles is too many when looking at a metro? I know it all depends on how it was driven... but really how many is pushing it on the lil' 3 or 4 angry squirrels? For example I know that a Jeep 4.0 six cylinder engine with basic maintenance will easily surpass 200k miles. So what is it for a Metro?

[metromizer]

I looked all over before finding the 'right' one.

I learned if you want A/C, search Craig's List in all the Arizona areas, seems like 1 in 3, three cylinder Metros have AC in Phoenix, but only 1 in 10, three cyl have AC in California. I never saw a three cylinder listed for sale with cruise control. Usually when looking, I found stripped bare-bones Metros wo/any features, or and Lsi with 4 cylinder, AC, Cruise, a bell or two (unfortunately, never any whistles )

Common things wrong with used Metros seem to be comsmetics (not very loved) three different brands of used tires w/cracked sidewalls, split CV boots that need reapir, broken door handles and window winders. Not passing the emissions test is another one, bad catalitic converter ofter sited in the ad.

The cool thing is, if you know what you are looking at, you can use the 'delayed maintainance' items as negotiating points, to bring the price down. Parts for these are cheap, and I found the Metro easy to work on.

replacement axle assy with new boots $65 45 minutes to replace in my driveway

rotors: $40 ea

Be prepared to look at a couple duds, before finding a good one. Don't be afraid to just 'pass'. I fashoined a tow bar rig to take with me to look at one, that I never ended up using. Iwas prepared to tow the right one home behind my Celica. I was prepared to pick one up 400 miles away if need be. I'd advise cash in pocket, looking twice/day on Craig's, overnight bag packed to go look at a cream puff on an hours notice if one comes up. The good ones sell fast.

happy hunting, enjoy the ride!

[pint]

Thanks for all the great info. Keep it coming!

[FunkSkunk]

I've found a 97 w/162,000 miles on the ol' LSi engine, it's a manual and the delear wants 1,600 for it. But it's 3 hours from my house! UGH!!!.... so if I go down there I'm pretty committed or wasting a toooon of gas. So that's again why I ask about mileage on a Metro, what is too much? Yeah I know it all depends but give me a ballpark

[FunkSkunk]

So to get comfortable in checking out Metros, does anyone have any pics of these notorious spots (aka the control arms) that we should look out for when buying?

[FunkSkunk]

I guess I'll do my own research.... So the pics below are showing some bad rust damage on a Metro, is this the notorious area to look out for??

I would love some feedback since I'm going to look at one this weekend.