Mullet's Metro Project

[Johnny Mullet]

Here is the transmission installed in the car........................



Here is the hose and O-ring from behind the water pump......................



I had to remove a 10MM bolt located on the block just above the starter and carefully wiggle it free. I found an O-ring the same size from a simple shop O-ring kit, added some vaseline to it and when the hose popped on, it felt good. It felt real good. After burping the coolant, we went for a 20 mile ride and the car feels like a completely different vehicle!

[Cd]

Thanks for all the 'how to' pictures !

[Johnny Mullet]

Well, instead of fixing the car, it's nice to just drive it for a change! The new trans is sooooo quiet and shifts very smooth. I am actually glad I fixed this car instead of just junking it.

I have gone through a lot of cheap, beater cars, but anytime something major went wrong, I would just get rid of it. This car is a different story and even though I had to do 2 major repairs on it, it's still saving me money in gas.

[MetroMPG]

Nice thread, Mullet!

I also did the blank/silicone installation over the passenger side mirror gap, but took it off this spring - the plastic I used wasn't as thick as yours, and its edges started curling up (probably from getting hot in the sun). I need to do v.2.

[metroschultz]

We have half dozen or so old mud-flaps laying around at the shop, I never even thought of using one for the blank-off for the mirror. I justed lurked around the boneyard till one came available.
Keep it up JM I've enjoyed your thread and will probably use some of your ideas (Chrome-In-A-Can) when I can finally get mine off the street for her re-man.
Schultz

[Johnny Mullet]

The car has been doing good and I already notice a MPG increase. I was getting almost 59 MPG before the trans started grinding and slowing the car down and I believe I shall get close to that again.

This is not any kind of mod (unless you include sleekness ) or repair, but what the after affect of me cleaning up this hidden jewel for 5 hours today and boy was I surprised





Also notice the new wheel covers. They look good on the car and not intended for aerodynamics, but seem they might cut through the air better than the dished steel rim.

I will be making my permanent partial grill block here real soon and will post the pics up!

ABS Plastic wheel covers = $29.00

[MetroMPG]

Wow - that cleaned up nicely. Quite a turnaround from kicking it to polishing it lovingly

Glad to hear the efficiency is back. Did I miss it in the posts above... what exactly was causing the noise?

Those wheel covers don't look bad from an aero perspective.

(You should save your images as "JPG" instead of "GIF" though - better quality for photographs.)

[Johnny Mullet]

I did not know what was internally causing the noise and the junkyard needed the core, so I happily gave it to them. It must have been the idler shaft bearings or support bearings that were bad.

I actually resize all my photos from 1200 resolution to 500 so it's easily seen on the forums and using .GIF makes editing (adding text) to them a lot clearer. A crappy computer has trouble scrolling down these pages with oversized images resized by the forum software.

I like the wheel covers also. I will be updating my fuel log in a day or so. I got 1/4 tank left and driven almost 400 miles on 7.5 gallons so far. This is gonna blow away my 53 MPG average. I never knew a bad trans could hurt the MPG so bad, but after the replacement I can feel the difference and the car coasts better and don't downspeed as bad in gear. I think removing that extra mirror was a big help also.

The MPG shown on the car's profile is without "Pulse and Glide", "Engine off Coasting", or any other extreme hypermiling techniques. I use most of the common sense tips, don't idle, monitor my vacuum gauge, drive slower, and I am happy with the outcome.

Fender skirts are on hold until I complete my partial grill block.

[Greenblazer]

Go Johnny, go Johnny, go Johnny go! I am starting to miss my '87 Chevy Sprint Turbo that I bought new back in 1988. Good thread thank you!

Later,

Allan Greenblazer

[NoCO2]

Still wish I could find a good MANUAL transmission metro. I found one in an automatic, but the mpg difference is astounding between the two.

[Johnny Mullet]

Originally Posted by MetroMPG

Quite a turnaround from kicking it to polishing it lovingly

I have a Love/Hate relationship with this car

[akcapeco]

Mullet,

The car is looking great... it looks like those headlights would clean right up, too.

[hunkybizkit]

this might be a stupid question... not sure.
since the engine is only 1.3L, would it be possible to use a motorcycle battery to turn it over? this might save you 5 pounds in weight, since they are smaller.

many motorcycles are over 1300cc's these days.

[elhigh]

Man, now you have to pull the engine and paint it, too - something classic and offbeat, like Fairbanks-Morse green. That'd look appropriately strange in there.

[Johnny Mullet]

it looks like those headlights would clean right up, too.

I tried cleaning them up even with rubbing compound and a buffer. There seems to be some coating on them that melts a little with brake cleaner, but I did not feel like trying to remove it all like that. I thought about converting to the "Sealed Beam" setup found on the 4 door and others, but then I would lose some aerodynamics. If anyone knows what I can use to melt off this old clear coating without hurting the lights or my paint/bumper, let me know.

since the engine is only 1.3L, would it be possible to use a motorcycle battery to turn it over?

It's actually a 1.0L engine. I think a smaller battery might be a great idea for weight reduction!

Man, now you have to pull the engine and paint it, too - something classic and offbeat, like Fairbanks-Morse green.

That has already crossed my mind, but I was thinking more along the lines of "Caterpillar Yellow" or "Chevy Orange". Image a painted little 1.0L with a CAT diesel powered scheme and black trim.

Man, I wish I had another Metro! I would totally finish rebuilding mine, then the other one would be next!

BTW, my exhaust went to hell, so I replaced it all! I removed the bad cat and replaced it with a scrap piece of 1 3/4" pipe all the way to the resonator and put a new muffler and donut gasket on..........



Exhaust pipe = $0.00
Donut gasket = $10.00
Walker replacement muffler = $90.00
Clamp = $2.00

Total cost = $102.00
Labor time = 3 hours

[dwendt1978]

Damn Johnny, you've come along way on this car. Great job. You also did a slick job on the mirror delete. I'd try the driver side too. With those interior convex mirrors.

Awesome job.

[johnpr]

at auto-zone (and im assuming other autoparts stores) they have a headlight "restorer" which is basicly a super fine sanding paper and rubing compound (usually) its a bit of work but it turns out great! just a thought, i dont know if there is anything else that removes hazing

[blownintegra]

you can use nailpolish remover, which is basically watered down acetone. then get "wet or dry" 1500 or 2000 grit, wet sand the covers and work the plastic with the buffer off of the car.

The only problem is that one the uv protection in the plastic goes, the lights will not stay clear long, especially if you live in the deep south.
but they will look nice....

[RacerX]

Johnny, On those headlights.....Start with 2000 grit or 1500 grit wet sanding paper. The sheets are half sheets if you go with 3m. Fold the half sheet into thirds. Find something flexible yet firm to back up the sand paper like a little rubber squeege or firm sponge. If you have a Napa or a bodyshop supply house near by they have wet sanding pads.
(this helps keep your finger tips from doing the sanding and helps sand more evenly) . Get a CLEAN bucket and fill it with CLEAN water put a LITTLE squirt of liquid dish washing soap in the bucket and mix it up a little. Rinse off the head light of any dirt and start sanding. Start at a corner and work your way across the lense. Try not to push to hard and rinse frequently. When you are sanding try to do it when it's quiet so you can hear the paper rubbing the plastic. As you are sanding if you hear a little "zing"...That is a piece of dirt between the paper and the lense STOP and rinse the paper and the lense. Sand the lense until you see that most of the imperfections on the surface are gone. The lense will still look very cloudy but you want it to look "even" not more cloudy in one spot then another. This will take some time maybe 1/2 hour or so per light. But patience is well worth it for these lights are $130.00 each (new) aftermarket. Next get a variable speed buffer (Not a 7 1/2" Grinder) with a wool pad and micro finishing compound or a compound that say's it will remove 1500 grit sand scratched. Smear up the lense with compound and buff it SLOW with moderate pressure and I mean SLOW. Take your time, As the shine comes back to the plastic you can spin the buffer a little faster. If you buff it to fast and too hard and the compound dries out you WILL burn into the lense. The lense will now have a shine and will be much clearer, Clean the pad or change your pad and now buff it with a cleaner wax or something that will remove micro finishing scratches. This will bring the "sparkle" back. Again buff it slow Buff until you are happy with it then give it a coat ot two with regular wax by hand and try to keep up with waxing them... Hope that helps .......I've been doing that for years.... Keep up the great work on your thread !!!

[Daox]

Looking very nice Johnny!

BTW, this is what I use for foggy headlights: http://www.meguiars.com/?clear-plast...Cleaner-Polish