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Old 07-14-2017, 09:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markweatherill View Post
Definitely install some kind of voltmeter and see if the alternator isn't already doing some sort of 'smart' charging behaviour.
I think it is supposed to, but on my Scangauge 2, the voltage stays between 14.1 and 14.4 at all times. I think the ELD should be cutting voltage to around 12.6 under certain conditions though, but it is not. Great idea though.

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Old 07-14-2017, 09:31 PM   #12 (permalink)
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It's easy to figure out how much power you need. Just use an amp meter and turn stuff on.
If you drive less than 30 miles a day a roof covered with solar and a real MPPT type charge controller would be more than enough.
Keep the alternative unbelted and powered down, most of the time, then put the belt back on for long trips.
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Old 07-14-2017, 09:37 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by oil pan 4 View Post
It's easy to figure out how much power you need. Just use an amp meter and turn stuff on.
If you drive less than 30 miles a day a roof covered with solar and a real MPPT type charge controller would be more than enough.
Keep the alternative unbelted and powered down, most of the time, then put the belt back on for long trips.
Would it not hurt aerodynamics significantly and add weight to put solar panels on the roof? How many watts of power could I get out of a roof covered with solar panels on a bright, sunny day? What about putting a solar panel above the back seat so it gets light through the back window?
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Old 07-14-2017, 10:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How to Install an alternator cut-off ("kill") switch on a 1998 Honda Civic

I installed an alternator kill switch on my 1998 Civic DX for the exact purposes you describe. I also use it for a crude, mild regen braking tactic: slow-down using DFCO with the alt turned to "on" position. No fuel burned, no friction brakes used, electricity generated (though not a lot, and prolly not well absorbed in my deep cycle batt).
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Not the way I do it. Just attaching a metal edge panel to the roof of a car doesn't work, it's already been tried. It increases drag so much that the car uses more fuel.

Forget putting a panel inside the vehicle being behind glass, it cuts panel current by 2/3. It's a waste of time and solar panels.

I don't know how big the roof on your car is but up to 200w of panels isn't out of the questions. Laying flat they produce about half of name plate watts.

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