07-14-2017, 10:14 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markweatherill
Definitely install some kind of voltmeter and see if the alternator isn't already doing some sort of 'smart' charging behaviour.
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I think it is supposed to, but on my Scangauge 2, the voltage stays between 14.1 and 14.4 at all times. I think the ELD should be cutting voltage to around 12.6 under certain conditions though, but it is not. Great idea though.
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07-14-2017, 10:31 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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It's easy to figure out how much power you need. Just use an amp meter and turn stuff on.
If you drive less than 30 miles a day a roof covered with solar and a real MPPT type charge controller would be more than enough.
Keep the alternative unbelted and powered down, most of the time, then put the belt back on for long trips.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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07-14-2017, 10:37 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
It's easy to figure out how much power you need. Just use an amp meter and turn stuff on.
If you drive less than 30 miles a day a roof covered with solar and a real MPPT type charge controller would be more than enough.
Keep the alternative unbelted and powered down, most of the time, then put the belt back on for long trips.
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Would it not hurt aerodynamics significantly and add weight to put solar panels on the roof? How many watts of power could I get out of a roof covered with solar panels on a bright, sunny day? What about putting a solar panel above the back seat so it gets light through the back window?
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07-14-2017, 11:44 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post286419
I installed an alternator kill switch on my 1998 Civic DX for the exact purposes you describe. I also use it for a crude, mild regen braking tactic: slow-down using DFCO with the alt turned to "on" position. No fuel burned, no friction brakes used, electricity generated (though not a lot, and prolly not well absorbed in my deep cycle batt).
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
Last edited by California98Civic; 07-14-2017 at 11:50 PM..
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07-15-2017, 05:14 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Not the way I do it. Just attaching a metal edge panel to the roof of a car doesn't work, it's already been tried. It increases drag so much that the car uses more fuel.
Forget putting a panel inside the vehicle being behind glass, it cuts panel current by 2/3. It's a waste of time and solar panels.
I don't know how big the roof on your car is but up to 200w of panels isn't out of the questions. Laying flat they produce about half of name plate watts.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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