Diesel Swaps into 50s/60s Classics

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by lacolocho

I would love to hear more if you ever do the 7.3L swap.
Do you know if it needs modifications to bolt in?

Don't ever plan on one ford engine being able to bolt up to where another one was just removed. Ford is very, very bad about backwards, forwards and lateral bolt up compatability.

[Big Dave]

Keep on mind that 7.3 engine (International T444E) engine is a 1,200 lb hunk of iron. Every 1960s chromium bulldozers will become undriveable with that bank vault up front.

[lacolocho]

Keep on mind that 7.3 engine (International T444E) engine is a 1,200 lb hunk of iron. Every 1960s chromium bulldozers will become undriveable with that bank vault up front.

That was my thought about it too. If there's a will there's a way. I wouldn't want to try it, but I'd sure like to see one

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by lacolocho

Hey all, new to the forum.

I'm considering swapping diesel engines into 50s or 60s American cars and was referred to a post on this forum by someone over at the Benzworld.org

What do people think of doing such a swap?

I think the swap is just fine, most people driving a classic around here took out the straight 6 or 4 banger and put in a 350 and made a tricycle out of it.

I myself had my 82 6.2 diesel swapped into another suburban with a 5sp MT. for a craftmobile. The key with 6.2s is to stick with the C code motors (pollution control) and keep them slow and lumbaring preferably with a manual transmission and a nice high rear end. (2.5's/2.8's with an old 3sp + granny is best) I considered strongly swapping my 6.2 into a big cheap motorless ancient bently with a nice Scrooge McDuck look. I might be alone in that line of thought however. I was thinking I could keep the motor to the rear of the engine bay and use the rest as a trunk.

Anyway An 82 C-code 6.2 with good heads and bolts will last 500k as long as the harmonic balancer is decent.

A 6.2 is good at fuel economy but not at power, that is all you need to know, abuse it and loose it.

Oddly the same is true of the 5.7 olds and good wrench, I see many of them lasting in the 500k area so long as people added
1. Fuel water separators
2. Replace the head bolts occasionally.
Those that didn't have vastly different oppinions of that same motor.

Also my 82 6.2 still has the original pump, sadly I have an air leak which makes it hard to start but once running it is just fine and pokey as it was designed to be. The air leak has messed up my accellerator pedal (nothing then vroom) but I think a lift pump might fix it.

A 6.2 is a MUCH better idea than a Ford product because it is just about as easy to install as a 454/350 and can use all of the same parts and it is MUCH lighter.

Cheers
Ryan

[Deputy Diesel]

Yes the 7.3 will take some modding to put into the mercury. Im planning for engine mounts and oil pan to be the big ones. This will probly be one of the more straight forward engine swaps ive done. Nothing that zip disks and a welder wont fix!!!! LOL

As far as the weight goes this is not a concern. if it sits too low ill grab some heaver duty coil springs and shocks from the wrecker out of another vehicle. Build some spacers. whatever it takes. there is enough steel in the front of the car already so strength is not going to be an issue. Stopping steering also are not a concern. Im going to put an engine in that makes around 200 LESS HP. Disk brake 9 inch kits are dirt cheap.

[oil pan 4]

Originally Posted by rmay635703

The key with 6.2s is to stick with the C code motors (pollution control) and keep them slow and lumbaring

The ideal engine combo seems to be small valve C-code heads (those don't usually crack) with C-code small mouth precombustion chambers for fuel economy and a non-EGR J-code intake.

Originally Posted by rmay635703

Also my 82 6.2 still has the original pump, sadly I have an air leak which makes it hard to start but once running it is just fine and pokey as it was designed to be. The air leak has messed up my accellerator pedal (nothing then vroom) but I think a lift pump might fix it.

Do you have the original "brick" style fuel filter?
Upgrading to an electric fuel pump is a nice mod. I use the holly blue fuel pump and a carquest 4-7psi pump for back up.

[rmay635703]

Originally Posted by oil pan 4

The ideal engine combo seems to be small valve C-code heads (those don't usually crack) with C-code small mouth precombustion chambers for fuel economy and a non-EGR J-code intake.



Do you have the original "brick" style fuel filter?
Upgrading to an electric fuel pump is a nice mod. I use the holly blue fuel pump and a carquest 4-7psi pump for back up.

It has two fuel filters, the 89 had a brick.

I guess I will do the lift pump thing eventually, I am still wondering the best way to find an air leak to restore it somewhat before I invest in a pump.

Originally Posted by Deputy Diesel

As far as the weight goes this is not a concern. if it sits too low ill grab some heaver duty coil springs and shocks from the wrecker out of another vehicle. Build some spacers. whatever it takes. there is enough steel in the front of the car already so strength is not going to be an issue. Stopping steering also are not a concern. Im going to put an engine in that makes around 200 LESS HP. Disk brake 9 inch kits are dirt cheap.

Handling might suck having an RWD with most of the weight ahead of the front axle and the go pedal won't work on ice.

[ConnClark]

Originally Posted by me and my metro

I am a diesel mechanic by trade. I have run GM diesels over the last 30 years. Back in the early 80s I stuck a 4.3l Olds v-8 diesel in a 68 Vista-cruiser.

I thought the V8 was a 5.7 liter. A 4.3 would be a V6.

[lacolocho]

Any tips on using a 5.9L (other than the pump)?
Those are a lot easier to come by

[cfg83]

lacolocho -

I picked "Good Luck ...". Instead of American classic cars I would target the people that cherish European classic cars like VWs, Opels, and BMWs. I would guess that they would be more amenable to the "what if " of modern diesel drivetrains in their cars.

CarloSW2