Ideas for smooth wheel cover on spoked alloy wheel

[freebeard]

My main issue is, the market here is smaller and has fewer things available.

You are there in Burt Munro country.

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Put a longer bolt in the long nut to accommodate the crown. Locktite is for those without access to a MIG welder.

[Gasoline Fumes]

Another possible mounting method could be using the GM lug nuts with the external threads on them.


There were plastic caps that threaded on the hold the wheel covers.


Same 12mm x 1.5mm thread pitch as a Honda. Do the wheels have a conical lug nut seat? https://www.drivenproducts.com/blogs.../seating-style

[Ecky]

The wheels do have conical lug seats, rather than the typical Honda ball seats.

How do the plastic caps work to hold on the wheel covers, and where can I get them?

EDIT: I see the caps have a lip, and it appears that snugs up against the wheel covers and pulls them against the wheel. Clever, but I'd need to be careful about the height of the lug caps.

[Ecky]

I've sent off for a quote to have the following shape cut out in 1.5mm carbon fiber. A 280mm disc is about as large as I can get and still have unrestricted access to the valve stem. I could go larger and create a cutout for the valve stem. I'm uncertain if I would do a single cutout, or have it symmetrical and have two or four cutouts. 305mm would fully cover the drum, and 370mm would completely fill the wheel edge to edge inside the outer lip.

[j-c-c]

For your application, it's very feasible to DIY given access to the materials to use CF. We can discuss further if interested,

[maczo]

You could also try 3d-printing in black. It looks stealthy and not dissimilar to the recent wave of aero-optimized alloy wheels and caps for steelies:
https://www.printables.com/model/203...el-aero-covers

[Xist]

People here have been trying to figure out the best way to attach wheel covers since the beginning and I think those spiked lug nuts are clever.

Do you guys remember the guy who drilled out lug nuts and epoxied nuts inside?

Who was that?

[freebeard]

Someone who didn't have a thread tap?

[Ecky]

Originally Posted by j-c-c

For your application, it's very feasible to DIY given access to the materials to use CF. We can discuss further if interested,

I am, but I haven't looked into CF in years. I understand it's essentially just CF cloth, plus resin, and not all that different from fiberglass? It looks like I'd be ordering the cloth from AliExpress, just as I'd be ordering the cut sheets. I'm uncertain what thickness of cloth turns into what thickness of completed carbon fiber board.

The quote came back. 280mm discs as drawn will be $19US shipped each in 1.0mm, and $21.25US each shipped in 1.5mm.

In your opinion, how large would you go with the discs? 280? 305 with notches? 370? I imagine larger discs would be proportionately more expensive.

Originally Posted by maczo

You could also try 3d-printing in black. It looks stealthy and not dissimilar to the recent wave of aero-optimized alloy wheels and hubcaps for steelies:
https://www.printables.com/model/203...el-aero-covers

Looks like they clip in between the spokes? This would be excellent. I'm inexperienced with 3d modeling, but I might give this a shot.

[j-c-c]

Originally Posted by Ecky

I am, but I haven't looked into CF in years. I understand it's essentially just CF cloth, plus resin, and not all that different from fiberglass? It looks like I'd be ordering the cloth from AliExpress, just as I'd be ordering the cut sheets. I'm uncertain what thickness of cloth turns into what thickness of completed carbon fiber board.

The quote came back. 280mm discs as drawn will be $19US shipped each in 1.0mm, and $21.25US each shipped in 1.5mm.

In your opinion, how large would you go with the discs? 280? 305 with notches? 370? I imagine larger discs would be proportionately more expensive.



Looks like they clip in between the spokes? This would be excellent. I'm inexperienced with 3d modeling, but I might give this a shot.

I'm not clear here, is this for the CF fabric, or finished CF?

CF will use epoxy/hardener, not polyester resin. Typical CF will add .009 to . maybe up to .024" per layer, Epoxy is not you friend here strength/weight wise, meaning less is more. Might want to review temp limits on the epoxy chosen, to get up to 400F it gets real expensive, anything below 200F might get risky in this application. You can toy with vacuum bagging, or just put layed up flat cover under great weight or pressure for curing, remember less is more with epoxy, squeezing out all you can makes a better end result with this material. I would highly suggest one inner layer of Kevlar cloth, in case the Cf is impacted and fractures, it will remain together unless it is driven for miles when broken, Kevlar also has great thermal properties, it's just not pretty. Structural in the middle is best for Kevlar, as CF is much stiffer. Meaning a case could be made to place the Kevlar as the inner most layer. If heat ever becomes an issue try a reflective adhesive heat rated film on inside. I don't balance is a crucial consideration based on the lightweight material.
Easiest is to form on steel table treated with a mold release agent, trim to Dim after curing. Is the CF look important in the finished product? If so, a bit more effort needs to be taken to keep outer visible CF fabric correctly oriented. If it is going to be shaped, requiring a mold, or a flat a panel/ I personally am not a fan of a shaped in this application

The finished CF prices above are very fair, just be sure that is the rea]l deal FL, and not just a surface treatment
Hope this helps.