07-17-2012, 02:05 PM
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#11 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Then you'll have a cel
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 Today
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07-17-2012, 06:04 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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herp derp Apprentice
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greasemonkee
Based on the above diagram with what is visible, I would cut the ecm wire or red/yel wire, this will have the least amount of current of any of the lines and will cut off the ecu along with the fuel pump/injectors/ign, ect. If I could see the rest of the wiring, that may change but I doubt it.
Cutting the FP only will allow fuel to trickle through the injectors under low manifold pressure. Some cars will even run without the FP being on if they are of the centrifugal type.
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the only red/yellow wires i see are the relay 1 control, and the purge valve control
Quote:
Originally Posted by bandit86
Just look for the injector ground and cut that
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each injector is individually grounded by the ecm |
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07-17-2012, 10:14 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Relay 2 is operated by Relay 1, interrupt signal to relay 1 and you cut everything. You'll probably get a CEL when you interrupt the circuit which will kill ecu and FP, but when the circuit is closed it should reactivate with no CEL and nothing stored in the memory. Unless your generation has some queer test routine in the ecu it should work. I do all of my cars this way, even use it for an anti theft.
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07-20-2012, 02:56 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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Moderator
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It works! I cut the red/yellow wire between the ECM and first relay, and (at least sitting in the driveway) it works perfectly. Engine shuts down, MIL comes on, battery and oil lights don't, everything else stays functioning.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Vman455 For This Useful Post:
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07-20-2012, 09:31 PM
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#15 (permalink)
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Moderator
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Oops--seems I spoke too soon. The kill switch is tripping the immobilizer system, so I have to key off anyway to reset it. Looks like I'll have to hunt down the injector power wire under the hood after all.
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07-20-2012, 10:02 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vman455
Oops--seems I spoke too soon. The kill switch is tripping the immobilizer system, so I have to key off anyway to reset it. Looks like I'll have to hunt down the injector power wire under the hood after all.
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Well you'll figure it out... until then, at least you have a nice looking switch. 
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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07-20-2012, 11:03 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Sorry that didn't work out, but thanks for reminding me to never buy a post 2000 car.
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09-06-2012, 06:50 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Trying to figure this out for my '01 HX.
Did you ever figure out a good solution? Did you interupt the Yellow/Black wire to the injectors similar to SentraSE-R?
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09-06-2012, 08:03 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2000mc
each injector is individually grounded by the ecm
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and looks like Honda's schematics don't agree with you! |
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09-06-2012, 08:29 PM
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#20 (permalink)
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.........................
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalmir
and looks like Honda's schematics don't agree with you!
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Eh?
Did you look at the schematic? Yel/Blk positive to each injector from PGM-FI Main Relay 1, negative color varies by injector and goes directly to ECM/PCM. How does it not agree?
Mine is an '01, here is a more detailed Wiring Diagram. It's drawn differently, but has the same grounds going to the ECM/PCM and yel/blk positive feeding the injectors.
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