MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo

[nimblemotors]

The weather has now turned quite nice and warm, so I've been back to work on the MGeo. I went and cleaned up the garage, and took a look at the car, and I guess my little Elf friends took vacation in Costa Rica, becaues they hadn't done a thing to the car during the winter. Guess I'll have to do it.

I've working on getting the engine and trans mounts made, so I can paint the engine compartment after its been welded on.
I need to run the brake lines, and get the car so it rolls and can turn and stop.
Getting there..

[Odin]

great build! this thing looks amazing how light do you expect it to be when finished?

[nimblemotors]

Originally Posted by Odin

great build! this thing looks amazing how light do you expect it to be when finished?

Thanks. It starts at 1500lbs, I think I'm taking off at least 300lbs.

The problem with this super lightweight is the drivers weight becomes a large percentage. The driver should really sit in the middle to get proper balance.
I'm trying to offset the engine to the right a bit, but messes with the driveshaft angle, can only go a little.

[Frank Lee]

Offset the battery, gas tank, etc. somewhat....

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by Frank Lee

Offset the battery, gas tank, etc. somewhat....

Or tilt the motor to the other side, Mallock style.

Mallock did front engine / rwd race cars well after everyone else went mid-engined, and his cars continued to win even when they shouldn't have. Here's a front engined Formula Ford mallock

[Frank Lee]

Yes. I wouldn't go too far with this "balancing" though- how often will it have a passenger?

I know: put the battery, gas tank, whatever other heavy, moveable components there are on a rack that slides laterally, then adjust accordingly.

[nimblemotors]

That's a good idea to avoid the driveshaft issue! Haven't thought of it.
The problem would be the original Geo engine is tilted, but the other way.
There really isn't any attachment but the frame rails, so not sure how I could hold it in place if mounted unbalanced vertically.
Also I've moved the engine pretty far back and have already removed a couple inches from the passenger foot well, if I tilt it that way, it would remove quite a bit more, already its not going to great comfort for the passenger. The Midget is a very small car!

The fuel tank isn't big or heavy, will be on the right side, the battery will be lithium, not much weight.
There really isn't anything else of any weight that is relocatable.

The car is purpose built as a commuter car, so I suspect 90% of the miles will not have a passenger. My hottie girlfriend has a 120 mile commute 3 days a week, and will be driving it, this is too far for an EV.
She currently uses my Prius. She is a svelte 125lbs. But now she wants the Porsche!

Originally Posted by Arragonis

Or tilt the motor to the other side, Mallock style.

Mallock did front engine / rwd race cars well after everyone else went mid-engined, and his cars continued to win even when they shouldn't have. Here's a front engined Formula Ford mallock

[Varn]

That is is a heck of a commute. Perhaps to be eco a new close by job is in order. I really can't talk as we live 150 miles from work and we only make it home on weekends. I sure would not want to commute in a sprite.

Had to drive to Kansas City this weekend. On the way in had someone pull on to I35 in front of me, change lanes to the left lane in front of me and put on his brakes hard enough to compress suspension several inches. Guess he was just trying to keep in control of the left lane as I had to do the same to maintain the interval. A few miles later someone else entered the interstate and pulled immediately in to the left lane. Sorry for going OT.

Project is way cool.

I do like the front engine FF to.

[vacationtime247]

Could the suspension be tuned to compensate for the offset in balance?
BTW, thanks for the pics! Certainly appreciate the eye candy.
VT247

[nimblemotors]

Got the engine mounts done and the motor and trans in place.
Fabricated out of aluminum, and used the spare two suspension bushing as the isolator, a very lightweight mount.





I widened the cross member area at the trans mount and reinforced it,
and now the exhaust can run next the trans and above the floor boards,
so the bottom of the car will be completely smooth, the oil pan just barely sits below the frame rails. Notice my aluminum steering column too.



I took the rear wheels to the machine shop to have them redrill them to fit the MG bolt spacing and the center hub. I was going to make some adapters, but time is short, and without the adapters the wheels will tuck nicely into the wheel wells, which means I can make a full wheel skirt that covers them all, whereas it looked like the bottom of the wheels would extend outside the body, now they are all inside.

I'm now trying to decide what to do about the clutch and the exhaust.
The FWD 1.0L metro uses a much smaller clutch and flywheel than the RWD 1.3L Samurai, the clutch spline is smaller on the metro. I could just swap in the flywheel and clutch from the Samurai, but it is a lot heavier! No NO NO!! I want lightweight!! But not sure what I can do about it, it looks like I might be able take apart the metro clutch disk and put in the Samurai center spline part, but I dunno if it'll work or not. That is burning up a couple hundred bucks of parts if it doesn't work. Hmm..