MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo

[darcane]

Originally Posted by nimblemotors

I'm now trying to decide what to do about the clutch and the exhaust.
The FWD 1.0L metro uses a much smaller clutch and flywheel than the RWD 1.3L Samurai, the clutch spline is smaller on the metro. I could just swap in the flywheel and clutch from the Samurai, but it is a lot heavier! No NO NO!! I want lightweight!! But not sure what I can do about it, it looks like I might be able take apart the metro clutch disk and put in the Samurai center spline part, but I dunno if it'll work or not. That is burning up a couple hundred bucks of parts if it doesn't work. Hmm..

You should be able to return parts to the auto parts stores if they don't fit. Buy it and give it a test fit, return the Metro parts if it doesn't work out right and use the heavier Samurai stuff.

[nimblemotors]

I have a new metro clutch disk, and it doesn't fit the splines on the Samurai trans. What I'm considering doing is remove the spline part of a Samurai clutch disk and put it inside a metro clutch. This means destroying them to get at the splined part inside to swap them.

Anyone have a good metro clutch disk they can donate to the cause?
Maybe I can see if I can buy just the disk..

Originally Posted by darcane

You should be able to return parts to the auto parts stores if they don't fit. Buy it and give it a test fit, return the Metro parts if it doesn't work out right and use the heavier Samurai stuff.

[vacationtime247]

How much is the difference in weight? I'd be scared to try and rig a different clutch up. Certainly not a piece that you want coming apart. However reducing overall weight and certainly recipricating mass will improve mileage.
VT247

[bt-fit-]

this is amazing, Loving the great work keep it up and keep us posted.

[nimblemotors]

I've fabricated a new gas tank and its mounting. The tank is a little 2.5gallon HDPE plastic tank, it weighs almost nothing.
This car better get at least 60mpg to make a 120mile trip.

I removed the fuel pump and sender assembly from the metro tank,
cut out the mounting boss from the tank, and sandwiched it between the HDPE to seal it off. Also had to seal up a cut-off part of the tank, and learned that the only way to seal HDPE is to "weld" it by just melting it together, worked great with the heat gun, I was impressed it worked so well. Of course, then something else took forever... I had to modify the pump bracket so it reached the bottom of the tank, and completely redo/reposition the sending unit so it would privot inside the small tank and register F-E. It seemed to be corroded too, so I spent hours getting the potentiometer to work like it was suppose to.

I relocated the tank to ahead of the rear axle, and had to fabricate a box to hold it and protect it. I had torn apart a refridergator to get the compressor to make a kegerator for my patio, and the old enamel sheetmetal came in handy, as I've not had time to take it to recycling yet. Good reinforced construction.

I still need to run the lines and the filler tube. I got some 1/4 PEX tubing to run the fuel lines, light stuff, and just like the tank, want to avoid steel or aluminum in case of E85. Any suggestions on the fittings? Nylon?

[nimblemotors]

Have started working on the exhaust and the header.
I've had a pair of stainless steel headers from a 5.0 mustang kicking around f and some non-stainless U-bends from my 221-V8 '70 Mach1 project from many years ago, and finally have been able to use them. Turns out the G10 exhaust opening are almost a perfect match to the 5.0 Fords, but of course nothing is that easy, the mounting holes are way off. So I've cut/welded them into the right positions, and have started working on fabricating the tubing.

I got one of the HF Tig welding guns that hooks up to an Arc welder, so I pulled out my old Arc welder and hooked it up, and what do you know, this ghetto scratch TIG welding works!

I also put my spare low-mileage motor up on the stand and am using it to fab the headers, a lot easier than using the motor in the car, but its there to confirm any fitment.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by nimblemotors

I've fabricated a new gas tank and its mounting. The tank is a little 2.5gallon HDPE plastic tank, it weighs almost nothing.
This car better get at least 60mpg to make a 120mile trip.

Erm... what was that tank originally used for?

Plain HDPE isn't really intended for long term storage of gasoline. Gas tanks made of HDPE are treated to resist solvents. If they aren't treated, the gasoline will slowly seep into the plastic...

While I like innovation on the cheap, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable skrimping here. For <$100, you can buy a fuel tank intended for gasoline in sizes ranging from 1 quart to 5 gallons from Summit Racing or similar sites.

[nimblemotors]

This container was for industrial hazardous solvent use, not a milk carton.
No existing tank was this size or shape and if you look, there is no room for anything but this exact size, which already is quite small.
If you look at race tanks, they are not designed for in-tank EFI pumps,
nor for filler tubes, so they just don't work here.

Originally Posted by darcane

Erm... what was that tank originally used for?

Plain HDPE isn't really intended for long term storage of gasoline. Gas tanks made of HDPE are treated to resist solvents. If they aren't treated, the gasoline will slowly seep into the plastic...

While I like innovation on the cheap, I personally wouldn't feel comfortable skrimping here. For <$100, you can buy a fuel tank intended for gasoline in sizes ranging from 1 quart to 5 gallons from Summit Racing or similar sites.

[MetroMPG]

One "benefit" of such a small tank...

The frequency of "tank-to-tank" fuel economy calcs will be high enough to provide useful feedback.

[NHRABill]

I know I may take flack for saying this and in please don't take this the wrong way because I like your build. But... there is NO WAY I would ride in a car without a proper fuel tank. A plastic tank is cheap enough and they make tons of odd sizes and shapes from 1 gallon and up the added weight from a properly reinforced tank is VERY minimal. when I say proper I am referring to a Jazz or RCI fuel tank made for racing applications they are cheap besides if you don't put the foam in the tank then your gauge an pickup will be a mess whenever you take a corner with that setup it is also a safety issue keeps gas from reentering the fill tube and electric areas from being splashed.

..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::..

Racer's Choice Inc.

Things like inertia cut off switch and reinforced fuel lines that won't corrode or dry out over years of abuse are to important to skip. A flapper gasket is overkill but It is necessary on cars I build in my opinion even though not mandated. Slows fuel leakage if car ever flips.

How much Fuel pressure does the little motor need? I am guessing that it will be close to 30 PSI like most any standard Fuel injected motor make sure you purchase Fuel injected lines that can withstand the pressure. Standard non fuel injected lines are good for a month or 2 then POP. I like to use Aluminum in the Past and just flare some fittings but now I prefer to use braided fuel lines with AN fittings for easier and faster hookups.

Summitracing.com or Jegs.com are good places to check for a nice fuel setup