MG Midget + Geo Metro 3cyl = MGeo

[darcane]

Originally Posted by nimblemotors

This container was for industrial hazardous solvent use, not a milk carton.
No existing tank was this size or shape and if you look, there is no room for anything but this exact size, which already is quite small.
If you look at race tanks, they are not designed for in-tank EFI pumps,
nor for filler tubes, so they just don't work here.

OK, you're probably good as far as the material goes then. I just wanted to make sure it was something you had considered first.

Technically speaking, your tank wasn't designed for an in-tank EFI pump nor filler tube either. However, there are aftermarket tanks allow for filler necks and fuel level sending units, and having a separate pump shouldn't be a reason to be unsafe, especially with something as critical as a fuel tank.

I'd just say, keep a real close eye on it and be prepared to find a different location if it becomes a problem.

[nimblemotors]

There is nothing "improper" about this fuel tank, in fact I believe it is superior, in its location and its support. I take safety seriously, and that is why this tank is where it is, in the strongest part of the chassis and the most protected location. The fuel sloshing isn't really bad for such a small tank,
I had no foam in my 8-gallon tank in my Falcon no problems at all.
However I do think it may cause the Geo sender to fail as it is a quite weak device, I will probably replace it with a tube type sender, or perhaps something else. I had braided line on my falcon and did not like it, and will not use it again, hard to handle it and it eventually leaked, but you could not find out where because of the braid, but in any case, NHRA rules allow only 6or 12in of it if I recall. I have to run about 4-5ft from tank to engine.
PEX line should last forever, if not in sunlight, which it isn't, and will likely wrap it with aluminum tape, and run it through an alum conduit as well, since I will have the exhaust pipe going through the trans tunnel (which will be heat sheilded as well)
I'd use alum tubing if not for E85. Having trouble finding fittings for small size PEX. I don't know what the PSI is for the Geo, I think the TBI design uses less pressure than port injectors, the PEX is rated at 100psi.

McMasterCarr has Buna-N braided hose, that is good for E85.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#tubing/=ba5urh might get some of this.

Originally Posted by NHRABill

I know I may take flack for saying this and in please don't take this the wrong way because I like your build. But... there is NO WAY I would ride in a car without a proper fuel tank. A plastic tank is cheap enough and they make tons of odd sizes and shapes from 1 gallon and up the added weight from a properly reinforced tank is VERY minimal. when I say proper I am referring to a Jazz or RCI fuel tank made for racing applications they are cheap besides if you don't put the foam in the tank then your gauge an pickup will be a mess whenever you take a corner with that setup it is also a safety issue keeps gas from reentering the fill tube and electric areas from being splashed.

..:: JAZ PRODUCTS ::..

Racer's Choice Inc.

Things like inertia cut off switch and reinforced fuel lines that won't corrode or dry out over years of abuse are to important to skip. A flapper gasket is overkill but It is necessary on cars I build in my opinion even though not mandated. Slows fuel leakage if car ever flips.

How much Fuel pressure does the little motor need? I am guessing that it will be close to 30 PSI like most any standard Fuel injected motor make sure you purchase Fuel injected lines that can withstand the pressure. Standard non fuel injected lines are good for a month or 2 then POP. I like to use Aluminum in the Past and just flare some fittings but now I prefer to use braided fuel lines with AN fittings for easier and faster hookups.

Summitracing.com or Jegs.com are good places to check for a nice fuel setup

[robertwb70]

The TBI metro specs call for 13 to 20 PSI when running and 23 to 31 PSI when initially keyed on but not running.

[Arragonis]

On the tank issue, I'm no engineer but I think that isn't the strongest part of the car.

There is a reason why BL switched from round wheel arches to square ones for the final Midget models after the early 1970s Midgets had RWA. I had an early 1970s RWA midget and I agree it looks nicer but it was less stiff in a rear ender.

Just my 2p.

[gone-ot]

...designed-in "crumple-zone" at the wheel well arches?

[Johnny Mullet]

Nice looking project you got going on. Thanks for sharing.

[nimblemotors]

Got the header fabrication mostly done, just need to put in the o2 sensor bung and figure out how to attach the flex tube in a way that can be undone with the firewall back in place. The header is lighter than the cast-iron manifold, but not by a lot, haven't weighed them yet. ok, so with the downpipe, the cast-iron manifold was 10lbs, the header was 4lbs, so actually quite a relative wt savings. I'm going to have them ceramic coated, which takes 2 weeks, as much as I like to get things finished plenty other things to do.

Got my rear wheels back from the machine shop, so can put the rear end back together.

[Arragonis]

Originally Posted by Old Tele man

...designed-in "crumple-zone" at the wheel well arches?

Not sure but the official reason for the switch back from round (69-73) to square (74 on) was because of rear end stiffness. However at the same time they attached those rubber bumpers (actually a rubber covered steel girder which weighs as much as a small person) and raised the ride height - that may have had something to do with it.

[Christ]

Truly enjoying this project. Great work so far... see it through and make a nice driveby video!

[MetroMPG]

Too bad the exhaust wasn't on the passenger side on this motor. That footwell & tunnel is going to be warm!