10-15-2013, 05:32 PM
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#21 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheIVJackal
Wow, my rpms at 60mph are around 3,000! That means I would benefit more from P&G then correct?
- Aaron
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Yes, you would benefit.
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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10-15-2013, 05:32 PM
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#22 (permalink)
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Hypermiler
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Texas
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Yes indeed! If my experience with a 90's civic is any indication, it will do wonders for your integra. I don't know about the B-series engines vs my Civic's D16, but I expect it would do well.
Edit: Haha! Sniped by another civic guy.
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11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles
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10-15-2013, 08:56 PM
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#23 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: uk
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What about extra wear on the clutch?
P&G on the flat for me always felt like it wasn't quite worth it so it's interesting to see that dis-proven.
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10-16-2013, 03:44 AM
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#24 (permalink)
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Reformed speeder
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 2
Ruby - '12 Toyota Yaris 90 day: 47.86 mpg (US)
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What about the Prius? With the gearbox like it is, the RPMs don't change all that much, even at highway speeds. After 66 kph the motor is running, so you won't get a full glide per se. Anyone tested this?
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10-16-2013, 07:58 AM
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#25 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Coastal Southern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swede2378
What about the Prius? With the gearbox like it is, the RPMs don't change all that much, even at highway speeds. After 66 kph the motor is running, so you won't get a full glide per se. Anyone tested this?
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Engine off P&G is only for manual transmissions... don't cut the engine on a Prius going down the road. Engine on might be okay, but I am not sure, with that CVT, if it is safe to roll in neutral. Proceed with caution (meaning expert advice).
__________________
See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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10-16-2013, 10:13 AM
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#26 (permalink)
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Reformed speeder
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 2
Ruby - '12 Toyota Yaris 90 day: 47.86 mpg (US)
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With the Prius I can cut the gasoline engine with pedal position, but it still pulls gas according to my UltraGauge, when travelling faster than 66 kph. Usually try to keep the mileage high while constant speed cruising, having given up on the PnG at highway speeds. Will try a test run, but with the changing temps we are getting in Sweden this time of year it is hard to do an accurate test, you never know how warm it is going to be two days running. Wondered if anyone else has attempted such a comparision in a Prius.
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10-16-2013, 10:15 AM
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#27 (permalink)
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Hypermiler
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Texas
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As for the Honda clutch issue, mine lasted 200k before I sold the car. The last 50k of that was full-time P&G, multiple cycles per mile. As long as you're not trying to kill it, it should be fine.
__________________
11-mile commute: 100 mpg - - - Tank: 90.2 mpg / 1191 miles
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10-16-2013, 10:20 AM
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#28 (permalink)
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Administrator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
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The Prius engine is optimally loaded by the time it starts increasing rpms above ~1200. P&G won't really do anything for you unless your rpms are sitting around 1200 or lower. Thus, highway P&G won't really do anything (I do coast down hills), but in town P&G does help a lot.
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10-17-2013, 12:40 AM
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#29 (permalink)
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^^ oh-ee ^^
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Colorado
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So if my RPMs hit 3000 around 75-80, would it make sense to P&G when traveling at those speeds? From what I can see it won't make sense for me to P&G when traveling in the 60MPH range because my RPMs aren't high enough
(And before anyone asks why I would go those speeds, I try to get the best MPG I can while following the speed limit or occasionally exceeding it)
Also, since I don't have an engine kill switch, how much sense does it make for me to P&G at all?
(Never considered an engine kill switch since I lose power brakes and steering when the engine's off)
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-- oey192
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10-17-2013, 04:03 AM
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#30 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: United States
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The coast distance may have something to do with it, and the lowest speed. I haven't taken measurements that much but I never noticed a dramatic change in fuel economy. Granted, I tend to engine-on glide and the retarded ECU thinks you need 1000rpm to maintain the headlights which hurts it.
However, I never let the speed of the car drop below 50mph because I don't want to be the target of road rage. Doesn't help that my car is light, the speed drops very fast due to drag. On top of that, it feels like revving the engine up past 3000rpm to match revs each time I pulse uses a nontrivial amount of fuel as I do have to push hard on the pedal to get it to rev quickly (that shall change a bit when I put in a 9lb aftermarket flywheel ). To travel one mile at an average speed of 55mph, doing 50-60something pulses, I have to use like 5 pulses, that's just too much for me. I'm trying to cut the aero drag down a little so I can glide down steeper inclines such as the Bay Bridge at a full 50mph, but for now I tend to pulse up hills and glide down hills, and just cruise at a constant speed on flat land.
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