11-02-2013, 12:53 AM
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#1 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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12 volt Battery
I am considering doing the following. I am going to take screw terminal capacitors
16volt uf and make a hybrid battery...
So like one capacitor attached/wired to anode and one attached /wired to cathode.
I am curious how stable this would be for a automotive 12 volt power electronic.........
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11-02-2013, 12:57 AM
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#2 (permalink)
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EcoModding Newb
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Check out this thread on the subject of replacing an automotive battery with a series of capacitors.
How many uF were you thinking? Are you deleting the battery, or just connecting in parallel with it?
I'll begin experimenting with capacitors soon...
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11-02-2013, 01:06 AM
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#3 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I am not set on the uf rating yet.... and may even go 30 volt... These would be parallel . I am want to make the low voltage battery I have more usable 11-12volt battery
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11-02-2013, 03:51 PM
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Master EcoModder
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if you want to make any noticable difference to the electrical system, expect to measure capacitance in F, not uF.
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11-04-2013, 04:46 PM
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#6 (permalink)
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EV convert
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Look on ebay you can get 1 and 2 Farad capacitors rated at 24v for fairly cheap.
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11-04-2013, 06:29 PM
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#7 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurcher
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertISaar
if you want to make any noticable difference to the electrical system, expect to measure capacitance in F, not uF.
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Adding a little to this thought...
Each farad can store about 100 joules at battery voltage (about 14.5 volts) 1 joule is 1 watt-second. So 1 F could store 100 watt-seconds. That's if you can convert the whole charge down to 0 volts. I guess you'd better assume you could use the top 30%, 14.5 volts down to 10 volts - you need 3 times as much capacity.
There is a hybrid cap called the Stinger available from car audio sources, it seems to be a combo capacitor & lithium battery which emulates 50 F. They cost about $200 each.
If you attached one of these in parallel with your battery, you'd gain 50 farad If you could use about a third of that (14.5 v down to 9.6 v) it would provide about 1,666 watt second. About 20 amps for 7 seconds to run your lights and radio.
-mort
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11-04-2013, 06:44 PM
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#8 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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i don't know what kind of ESR the "Stinger" would have, but let's assume it is something quite usable.... 1,666 watt-seconds could almost entirely replace a battery. if it were all drawn within 1 second, that is almost 120 amps, which is enough to run a starter motor on nearly anything that isn't a semi or larger.
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11-06-2013, 10:06 PM
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertISaar
i don't know what kind of ESR the "Stinger" would have, but let's assume it is something quite usable.... 1,666 watt-seconds could almost entirely replace a battery. if it were all drawn within 1 second, that is almost 120 amps, which is enough to run a starter motor on nearly anything that isn't a semi or larger.
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Okay
I checked out ebay and there are several choices which range from 2 farad, 10 farad,
20farad, 30farad and 50 farad. The price issue makes the 66 dollar 20 farad look promising canadidate componet.....
New Hybrid Planet Audio PC20F 20 Farad Digital Power Car Auido Capacitor | eBay
Does anyone know how these are wired to the vehicle
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11-07-2013, 03:21 PM
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#10 (permalink)
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Karmann Eclectric
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Cross-post from another thread....
My ultracap bank is seven 2600 Farad Maxwells, put together with a balancer by EBay seller cusdn. Here's a current listing for an identical version.
Maxwell BCAP0010 7 Ultracapacitor Surge Booster Assembly | eBay
I put it inside a plastic box with an Anderson connector, so can easily swap it from vehicle-to-vehicle. It can crank the 6.9L International IDI diesel all by itself, but sure puts a load on the alternator right away, since ultracaps want those electrons back just as fast as they'll give 'em up!
I've yet to try it for a long drive in the EV conversion, but intend to.
Hadn't put two-and-two together yet for using it as part of an alternator shutoff/delete. Running off the ultracap only provides such a small buffer that it would pert' near immediately transfer all load to the alternator, but switching in a lithium house battery that can maintain 15V under load sounds like a great way to unload the alternator. Thanks!
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