1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 6.5 Diesel (Automatic)

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by me and my metro

I am not sure about that crappy computerized pump will like b100. I do know your fuel hoses need to be replaced. I just replaced my 1/8" jumper return hoses about 6 months ago. I still have a mechanical fuel lift pump but I am only running b20.

That's just if they're rubber, according to what I read. Mine's a 1999, (if it were a 1992 or older - maybe even a 1993 - I'd need to replace the hoses.) I should check and see what material they are since I have little knowledge how it was treated before I got it.

[oil pan 4]

The only thing I have seen total fuel line failure due to bio diesel was on a german made Hatz air cooled diesel engine. The injector return lines suddenly gave out as soon as we put b20 in them.
The 6.2 and 6.5 use the same style and size of push on return line.
I even use german made Hatz line on my 6.5L.
After the lines were replaced they didn't develop any more leaks, as if Hatz had already switched formulation of their rubber.
So there are fuel lines out there that will just fall apart on contact with biodiesel but they are not real common these days.

[101Volts]

I haven't noticed any leaks from the blend since I started using it. I do have a tank leak near the top, (really it may be within the top seven gallons) which was already there before I started using the blend.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Theorically, the injector pump wouldn't be harmed by B100, I'd just check its seals and gaskets before going further on biodiesel blends.

[101Volts]

I tried to get the roof-rack off. Didn't work. I have the proper size star bit (T25) and these bolts are on like a metal pipe in frozen ground. I'd imagine taking the rack off will aid a great deal.

[oil pan 4]

There was a guy on here a few years ago that had a suburban, picked up almost 2mpg just from taking the roof rack off.

[101Volts]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

Been driving it and enjoying it, surprisingly. As for plans:

POR-15 (Rust Prevention Coating)
Front Air Dam
Rear Wheel Arch Covers
Partial Front Wheel Arch Covers
Oil Pan, Transmission Pan and Fuel System Pre-Heaters (The last one's for winter use)
Amsoil Oil Bypass Filtration System (I'm not sure this will increase MPGs, though it'll keep the oil cleaner if it works as advertised.)
Power Steering Fluid Flush (The first flush didn't clear out all the brown burnt fluid. It did help though, and I imagine may increase MPGs a bit if old fluid has been putting extra strain on the system.)

I've been reading that cleaner oil = higher MPGs.

Clean Oil Reduces Engine Fuel Consumption

Also I may delete the power steering and replace it with a manual system. The stock one was functional but long toasted in black fluid that I couldn't see through when I got it.

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

I may delete the power steering and replace it with a manual system.

Where are you going to find a manual steering box suitable to the Suburban? BTW maybe you would want to have a bigger steering wheel to alleviate the effort due to the longer lever extension from the center of the steering wheel...

[deejaaa]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

I've been reading that cleaner oil = higher MPGs.
.........

the cost of the bypass will NEVER be worth the ROI to save anything, if it's even true. advertisers will say anything to sell the product.
i have a bypass filter. it's big. used for several years. took it off of one to run on the other but it now sits on the shelf. cleaner oil can be used longer, don't expect more MPG, but it needs to be analyzed and there goes the savings from keeping the same oil.

[aardvarcus]

Originally Posted by 101Volts

I tried to get the roof-rack off. Didn't work. I have the proper size star bit (T25) and these bolts are on like a metal pipe in frozen ground. I'd imagine taking the rack off will aid a great deal.

I assume you have or are going to start bathing them in some sort of liquid-wrench type fluid to help if they are corrosion seized. From my construction experience, if you are putting loads of force on a T-25 bit the best quality bits you can get are the Dewalt "Impact Ready" bits, typically available at big box stores in two packs. That would help from rounding out the heads like lower quality bits sometimes will. After several treatments of antiseize and putting a good T-25 driver in a 1/4" socket in a decent ratchet/breaker bar I would think they would come loose (or shear off...).