1999 Chevy K2500 Suburban 6.5 Diesel (Automatic)

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by BabyDiesel

From what I have seen and read, diesels love cold air. I would think it would help, but time will tell.

The only moment when some warmer air is desirable is during a cold start. Overall, colder air not just leads to more fuel-efficiency but also a noticeable decrease in emissions due to the more complete combustion.

[oil pan 4]

I EOC my GM TH700 and TH400 auto transmissions all the time.

[101Volts]

The CAI does help quite a bit keeping the intake temps down, though I could improve on it a bit. I've been thinking of adding a scoop in the hood.

As for the oil, I bought Renewable Lubricants 5w40 Low Ash. The Amsoil filter hasn't arrived yet. Renewable Lubricants also has a low ash 5w30 and my manual says I can use a 10w30 in winter, I'm wondering if I can use a 5w30 even in summer and while towing. If the oil pressure isn't effected badly, I think I'll switch to that on the oil change after this one. The oil pressure gauge's still busted though so I don't yet know what the pressure is even with a 5w40.

[oil pan 4]

Don't use low ash oil in a 6.5L.

Low ash = low detergent.

You only need low ash if you have one of those fancy new diesels with a catalytic converter or if you run a high compression gasoline engine and have problems with preignition.

If you have the soot trap on that 99 remove it. Its likely plugged up with soot. Very few if any of them are still functional.
A good free flowing cold air intake and exhaust with a responsible tune will keep the soot down to near non existent levels.
The free flowing exhaust will allow the turbo to force feed more air into the engine burning all the nasty soot. The soot trap a lot of times causes more soot to be produced than it can ever clean up.

[101Volts]

I didn't update the photo, but the duct tape wheel arch covers (partial on front and near full on rear) made an improvement on the highway; with them I don't need to hold the accelerator down as much to stay at 55 MPH. Also, there's no problem with paint being removed from the car's finish; the tape is on the plastic wheel arch covers.

The block heater may not get it to operating temperature, but it does make an improvement; twice now I had it plugged in for 5 hrs. before starting, outside temperature 27/28 Farenheit and it got the coolant to 75-77 before starting. With RLI 5w40 oil the engine doesn't puff excessive smoke out of the tailpipe at startup this way nor does the engine rumble, it's a much smoother startup.

[101Volts]

This vehicle doesn't have a rear window washer or wiper.

With that being said, it gets dirty easily and quickly. I'm thinking a partial kammback is in order, for multiple reasons.

[oil pan 4]

The guys who still use a single block heater on the 6.5L claim to get about a +30'F peak temperature increase after 2 to 3 hours.

Its better than nothing.

My 6.5L cold starting system consists of two 600w block heaters, the 3500 watt coolant heater, electric coolant pump, two 50 amp intake heater coils and the factory glow plugs, 5w-40 motor oil.

DIY: Teaching an old J-code new tricks - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

If you are looking for more fuel economy and power I tested all the factory intake manifolds for the 6.2 and 6.5. The factory turbo manifold produced the lowest fuel economy and seemed to have the least get up and go.

Question: C-code to J-code, now F-code - Diesel Place : Chevrolet and GMC Diesel Truck Forums

[101Volts]

Looks like weight reduction is a bigger benefit than I previously imagined. Hopefully I can get the two middle seats out without issue. Maybe I'll end up switching to a smaller fuel tank in the future too (30 gallon or 25 gallon.)

I also ordered an Amsoil Oil Bypass unit and flushed the power steering again, this time I don't think I can get it much cleaner without after-market filtration (which I don't doubt exists, it's just uncommon.) I'm also thinking of cutting the frozen bolts above the roofline so I can get them and the whole roof rack off.

... Plus there's all the rust to take care of, (above tailpipe, above rear wheel wells, low sections on doors) lest the car turn junker on me.

[oil pan 4]

In my older suburban the middle seats ended up being a lot heavier than what I thought they would be. Remove them if you are not going to use them.

Just keep the big fuel tank that way you can fill it up when diesel is cheap and just let it sit. The replacement fuel tanks are not cheap and the empty weight differences between them is not that much.

To filter the P/S just install a standard hydraulic oil filter. That is what I am doing to protect my nearly $400 hydraulic power unit.

[101Volts]

Last time I tried removing the middle seats it didn't go very well, but I can try again.

Reason why I was thinking of getting a smaller fuel tank was so I could have at least 60 pounds less weight in carrying fuel around in-between fill ups. I haven't fixed the tank and/or gasket that's leaking just yet. It only leaks near the top though and I'm not sure where the leak is, except that it's somewhere in the top half of the tank.

I'm also thinking of removing power steering assist if I can do so easily, (http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/...teering_delete) but I imagine I could put a filter on anyway even considering that?

Do you have a thread about the filter installation?