19bonestock88’s first generation L61 build thread

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by 19bonestock88

I should still retain a fair amount of low end torque and if I find after the engine is installed that low end is lacking I can address it then.

Seems worth the risk

[19bonestock88]

Originally Posted by cRiPpLe_rOoStEr

Seems worth the risk

I figure that as I lighten the car itself and further reduce aerodynamic drag the low end torque would become less important; if I need quicker acceleration I can go down a gear or two

[me and my metro]

Do you still have the RL short block? I bought a 6+1 tune ring that bolts on the crank so the early ecm can drive it.

[19bonestock88]

Originally Posted by me and my metro

Do you still have the RL short block? I bought a 6+1 tune ring that bolts on the crank so the early ecm can drive it.

I still have the LSJ short block but it’s all but wasted. Piston was burnt and cylinder wall was marred, and it’s been sitting in the car without a head on it all this time. Definitely going to have to be a different block

[cRiPpLe_rOoStEr]

Originally Posted by 19bonestock88

I figure that as I lighten the car itself and further reduce aerodynamic drag the low end torque would become less important; if I need quicker acceleration I can go down a gear or two

That's a reasonable point.

[Ecky]

If you're willing to do cams, asymmetrical valve opening should have a noticeable impact on fuel economy at low RPM.

I'd argue pulling the balance shafts is a reasonable move too. It made my car fairly harsh on cold starts, but I also have solid poly engine mounts.

Any chance to get the EGR valve from the other Ecotec engines? If you're changing engine management, did the Cavalier variant have one?

Any chance of a top gear swap? That seems to make the largest difference.

EDIT: You could also K swap it. Even the "baby" economy K20 is 180hp with a tune.

[some_other_dave]

Any idea how good the oiling system is? On some older VW motors, you can evidently reduce some of the power spent pushing the oil around just by match porting the oil passages that carry oil into and out of the pump with the ports on the pump.

-soD

[19bonestock88]

Originally Posted by Ecky

If you're willing to do cams, asymmetrical valve opening should have a noticeable impact on fuel economy at low RPM.

I'd argue pulling the balance shafts is a reasonable move too. It made my car fairly harsh on cold starts, but I also have solid poly engine mounts.

Any chance to get the EGR valve from the other Ecotec engines? If you're changing engine management, did the Cavalier variant have one?

Any chance of a top gear swap? That seems to make the largest difference.

EDIT: You could also K swap it. Even the "baby" economy K20 is 180hp with a tune.

(Cams)
I’m searching out a set of factory cams from specifically the 2003 Saturn L200. They’re rumored to be ever slightly better than any other cam that came in the L61.
(Balance shafts)
I’m planning to delete them by means of cutting them off right behind the sprocket (turning them into an idler) and pushing the rear support bearings back to cover the oil gallery hole
(EGR)
I’m not aware of any US variant of the engine using an EGR valve (though the passage appears to be present on the head)
(Gearing)
I’m already on what should be the most economical variant of the transmission that came behind these engines, the FY1 code F23 used in the Cobalt XFE. It has a .69 5th gear and a 3.63 final drive ratio. With my tire size it puts me right at 2000 RPM/60mph. If I found an extra ~$3k to put into the build I could swap to the F40 six speed transmission from the 03-07 Saab 9-3 Aero(or Viggen) which had a .64 sixth and a 3.54 final drive. In any event I would like to potentially add a limited slip unit even to my F23 to get some traction for the new engine, as it should be a little spicier than my current one and I already spin the inside tire powering out of tight first and second gear corners

While the K series is a great engine I’m an Ecotec fanboy at heart, though I have vaguely considered doing a 2.4L (LE5) short block (comes with complications that can be solved)

[19bonestock88]

Originally Posted by some_other_dave

Any idea how good the oiling system is? On some older VW motors, you can evidently reduce some of the power spent pushing the oil around just by match porting the oil passages that carry oil into and out of the pump with the ports on the pump.

-soD

That’s an interesting thought but I’ve never looked into the oil passages

[Ecky]

How about an oil-water heat exchanger? Many Hondas come with a pancake exchanger that bolts between the oil filter and the block, and takes two coolant lines.