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Old 05-06-2016, 05:53 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Thanks Ryan! I'll definitely check those things out too.

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Old 05-06-2016, 10:42 PM   #32 (permalink)
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So, I checked a few things out tonight. Air filter looks clean. The oil looks clean, but way over filled. Its up at least to the twisted part of the dipstick. It does look like someone has been around the engine bay before. I found a hose clamp not really holding a hose to the valve cover, and thus the hose half off the barb. I'm guessing that someone replaced the grounding straps as this is what they look like. I didn't remove them, but I may just to clean them up and throw some grease on them to prevent any corrosion. However, I think the red stuff may be something similar?





Next up I went for the spark plugs. While doing this, I noticed the coil packs have exposed and rusty metal that is separating due to corrosion. I don't know if this will be an issue or not, but I'll probably see if I can do something about it.





Moving on, all the plugs were tight in there, so I don't think the bucking was from them.

Here is plug #1 (driver's side). The gap looks very large. Unfortunately, I couldn't find my gap measuring tool, but it has to be well over spec. Also, the ground electrode looks rusty while the threads make the plug look like it was running a bit rich. Its a bit odd.





Here is the middle plug. Looks nearly identical.





The third plug is where I had some issues. I didn't end up removing it. I'm thinking it may be cross threaded into the head. It is really hard to unscrew it. I think I got it most of the way, but I was afraid to go any further. I sprayed some penetrating oil down there hoping that it might help a little, but I haven't tried since then to remove the plug as it was getting dark out. Any tips here would be very much appreciated. I really don't want to strip the head out and have to pull it to install a heli-coil on it...
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Old 05-07-2016, 08:26 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Looks like the rubber bumpers are off to the side. These should just turn counterclockwise to come up. On every car I've had there has also been a locknut to keep it from vibrating around.

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Old 05-07-2016, 12:06 PM   #34 (permalink)
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If you want to know if the egr valve /egr plate is causing the bucking then just pull the electrical plug on your Egr valve and see if the bucking stops. Doing this will throw a check engine light , but if it's either of those egr components the bucking will stop or atleast be drastically reduced.
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Old 05-07-2016, 12:59 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The EGR is a small issue IMO. It will only take an hour or so to remove and clean. Then I'll know it's good.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:56 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Hurray, I got the one spark plug out. I took some advise I found while googling the problem. So, I warmed up the engine and then attempted to remove it. It still was more difficult than the others to unscrew, but it did come out. No galling of the threads or aluminum chunks, so I guess its just tight.



I ended up regapping all 3 plugs and putting them back in. However, they really should be replaced. The ground electrodes have a concave imprint from wear. I know they're indexed plugs. So, I assume this is a Honda dealer part only and I can expect to pay through the nose for them? I think I saw $23/ea on IC.





I also noticed this bracket. What is it supposed to go to?





Next up I pulled out the PCV valve to clean it up. It was bit caked.





Then I removed the EGR plate. It was kinda clogged... completely. Bucking issue definitely found here.





Here it is all cleaned up. I went at it mostly with a small flat bladed screw driver. Once most of it was carved out, I cleaned up the remaining bits by blasting it with carb cleaner. I also cleaned up the mating surfaces with a brass scraper.





I also went ahead and pulled the EGR valve off. It looked pretty good. I cleaned the bottom of the valve and blasted the inside with carb cleaner a little, but I didn't soak it like some do.







These are the extras that came with the car. Having the service manual I'm guessing is going to come in quite handy. I guess the starter will just go on the shelf of parts.
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:21 AM   #37 (permalink)
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That looks like an aftermarket catalytic converter, or at least an aftermarket heat shield for it. The bracket you see next to it is normally a brace.

The index markings should be printed on the engine head next to the spark plug holes. The plugs can be found on G1parts for ~$17 each.

Sterling McCall Honda Parts | g1parts.com

Here's my stock catalyst, with the bit that attaches to that bracket circled.

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Old 05-08-2016, 11:50 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post

I also noticed this bracket. What is it supposed to go to?

Right on to the flange for the exhaust.


http://i.imgur.com/FoaSWLm.png?1
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:00 PM   #39 (permalink)
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While warming up the Insight this past weekend to get the stubborn spark plug out, I also noticed a bit of input shaft bearing noise from the transmission. The 04 Civic I have had a similar noise, but MUCH louder. The Insight's noise was not very noticeable and I didn't notice until I was just sitting there with the hood open playing with things and waiting for the car to warm up. Clutch in gives no noise, clutch out gives a slight noise. So, this gives me one more reason to pull the trans out and do the synchro fix and the bearing replacement. Once I put the Insight on the road, I don't really want to be messing around with fixing it. Its old enough and I'm sure enough other issues will creep up that I don't need one more thing on the to do list.

Is there a redesigned bearing to go back into the transmission so this doesn't ever happen again?

Whats the consensus on transmission fluid to put back in the trans?

I don't plan on getting to this super fast as the Civic is still in the garage and being worked on. I'm not going to pull the trans out in my gravel driveway.
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Old 05-11-2016, 03:24 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Does this help at all? Pictorial Guide to Synchro Modification - Insight Central: Honda Insight Forum

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