2nd Gen Prius PHEV Conversion (Enginer plug-in lithium ion battery kit) - Page 22 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

ericbecky · 11-21-2010, 11:51 AM

Yes, there are new batteries. Two Anderson plugs to connect. There are pros and cons of this arrangement.

There is an instruction CD, but it is from an early version of the kit.
It gives you a general idea, but much of it may not apply anymore. For example cutting the smart key mounting bolt, or drilling holes in the dash inserts; neither of these steps are needed anymore, but some people don't realize it until after they have done it.

Also there are new plugs and switches not identified in the video.

Be sure to sign up on the Enginer web site for their forums so you can ask questions of others who have done recent installs.

Since the kit is constantly evolving, it is unlikely the instructions will ever be fully up to date until things settle into a standard kit.

Of the dozen or so nstalls I've been a part of, no two have been the same.

ericbecky · 11-21-2010, 11:53 AM

Oh, I should mentioned we have received one of the three BMS we are waiting for.

It looks like a second one may arrive next week, but with Thanksgiving I'm not sure it'll make it until the following week.

GeneralAnarchy · 11-24-2010, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epa5epa

Have you assembled the kit on your car?

I am starting with installation tomorrow. I did not get any instruction sheet for this latest BMS with the SD card installed, but it seems straightforward and there is a lot of good info online. It sounds like it records a text file of some sort.

Anyway, after inspecting the back of my car, I'll be ripping my receiver off to sand and spray because rust is starting. Also I'm running a cord to the front through the firewall so I can charge the Enginer kit from the front. Maybe I'll have the cord come through the grille just like the block heater. It should be a fun project.

epa5epa · 11-25-2010, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GeneralAnarchy

I am starting with installation tomorrow. ..... Also I'm running a cord to the front through the firewall so I can charge the Enginer kit from the front. ......

I'm excited to hear that your installation is runnung. Look forward to pictures of your installation. Thanks!

epa5epa · 11-25-2010, 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericbecky

Yes, there are new batteries. Two Anderson plugs to connect. There are pros and cons of this arrangement. ......

Since the kit is constantly evolving, it is unlikely the instructions will ever be fully up to date until things settle into a standard kit. ......

Thank you for your reply & suggestion.
I am highly interested in new version 4KWH kit. After one week studies from some forums, I still have some worries about the instruction & shipping. As the installation manul PDF or vedio are all previos version. The shipping of international buyer is a big problem.

GeneralAnarchy · 11-29-2010, 01:26 PM

Everything is in except the RFE batteries. I opted to bolt down the enclosure using the things they included that work like giant pop-rivets. Between the smart-key bolts on the left, and the prius brake control thing on the right, there is not much freedom for where to bolt it. The enclosure must go exactly "here". The fancy welded nuts they include don't seem useful at all because, despite removing everything in sight (muffler heat sheild, receiver hitch, etc), in most spots there appears to be no way to get to the exact place on the underside where they should go in order to line up with the enclosure brackets. In a few places the Enginer bracket seems roughly over the unibody "frame", other places too close to it to fit the nut-plates. So in the end, I have four of the giant rivets holding it down.

Thanks to those who posted to push the handle down on the HV plug!

For wiring I found 16ga extension cord rated at 105C because it passes closer to the engine heat that a normal home depot 60C extension cord should, and it is routed through the firewall and in the door channel along with my fancy Enginer phone cord all the way to the back. It is indistinguishable from my block heater cord coming from the grille. It looks like I have two block heaters.

Now I just have to plug in the batteries and do a test run.

GeneralAnarchy · 12-01-2010, 12:05 PM

By the way, I left my spare tire out. I did not feel like ripping out the smartkey receiver (which now mounts on top of the enginer side bracket) just to access the spare. I'll throw the spare on a tarp in the back for long trips. Another funny thing is don't drop a wrench or anything else beneath the enclosure and into the spare tire well, it is quite a chore getting it out!

Couple of questions:
Is there a way to get the prius floor panel that sits on top to fit nicely? On mine the place where it meshes with the other panel (the one that covers the stock battery) does not lock into place and the panel at that front edge often drops down leaving a significant gap. Perhaps there is an easy way to install it nicely without having to raise the entire Enginer case at that front edge. What did you guys do, or did it all just fit?

Also, the new BMS has a long USB connection and it appears this control panel can be mounted outside the enclosure so it can be easily accessed while leaving all the floor panels in place. Did you guys hook it up this way, and where did you route the wire?

ericbecky · 12-01-2010, 12:17 PM

I have had installations where the Enginer case sits too high, but are you saying in your case the Enginer case sits too low?

I usually attach one side of velcro on the back the BMS screen and then affix that to the passenger side rear deck panel. The cord can route out of the box then between the deck panel and the side panel. Again, feel free to call me if you have any other questions.

GeneralAnarchy · 12-02-2010, 02:16 PM

I don't know for sure if the case sits too low... But if I unlock and open the floor panel the front edge pulls away from the other panel and the tabs do not line up. It's seems too low. I have to lift front edge of the panel a bit or jiggle the whole thing and shove it forward before closing and relocking the panel. Even then it still is not totally flush like it was. There is a small "step" there. I'll take a closer look on the weekend, I just thought it might be a common problem.

I drove it to Madison and back a couple days ago, I should have asked you to take a look. Seems like my headlights aim higher now! The weight is significant. Enginer should sell suspension mods. Thanks for the idea with the velcro, exactly an idea I needed and sounds like a perfect spot.

GeneralAnarchy · 12-04-2010, 11:46 PM

Mission complete. One of the temperature readings says -30 while the rest say 15. Will that cause trouble? The system seems to push the stock battery up to 240V or so, giving it about 5 amps but I did not stress it yet.

The modular cord was also defective, there was bad continuity at one of the crimped ends, quite a nightmare to track down. I snapped off a modular cord tab in the process, so if you guys have a source for those 6-conductor ends, please let me know.

I also split off the enginer charging cord and put a 120v utility receptacle in the left-hand toolbox area to feed a 12V trickle charger or electric heater or whatever I might think of. Do I have to leave out the plastic toolbox tray? It seems to fit with some effort, but if I hook up the gray slinky hose for the Enginer fan, it does not seem like I can possibly fit both in there. What is the best option for this area? Is the slinky hose really needed or just for the summer when overheating is an issue? The floor panel fits kind of funny without it.