06-01-2012, 11:34 AM
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#11 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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I'm personally a fan of the OM617 Mercedes turbo diesel (3.0) It has enough power to push a big heavy benz sedan, are arguably one of the most reliable motors of all time, they are simple to work on and can be had cheap. A sprinter motor is great but very pricey to work on.
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06-01-2012, 01:26 PM
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#12 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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I would suggest an LBZ duramax diesel. There have been a few that have found their ways into monte carlos and chevelles, and all sorts of other chevys. I was just reading about a red 70 chevelle in new jersey, the car makes close to 1000 ft lbs of torque and gets 33 mpg averages, including driving it hard.
Chevy transmissions will work with the motor too!
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06-01-2012, 03:06 PM
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#13 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703
The best were the C-code 82-84 motor because of the small cups, if you make a frankenstein using the smaller cups on a newer motor (like a 6.5 for example) you can improve its fuel economy at the expense of a bit of power.
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That is what I have, a 6.5L block with 6.2L everything else. I kept the C-code heads for this reason.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-03-2012, 04:53 PM
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#14 (permalink)
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EcoModding Apprentice
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Cummins 4bt. Nothing else should even be an option. Compact, and bolts right up to a TH400 transmission. And the mpg should be there too. Also, only one wire (starter) as far as electrical work goes.
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1989 Dodge Diesel 972rwhp, 27mpg.
1971 Nova tubbed, solid cam 355 w/nitrous, 8mpg (sorry).
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06-04-2012, 11:14 AM
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#15 (permalink)
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home of the odd vehicles
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JQmile
Cummins 4bt. Nothing else should even be an option. Compact, and bolts right up to a TH400 transmission. And the mpg should be there too. Also, only one wire (starter) as far as electrical work goes.
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If money is no object,
as you can buy 10 6.2s for the price of one 4bt.
The C-code motor gets good fe but the 4bt has more power, although a big behoth tends to pull tree stumps better despite its power rating.
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06-04-2012, 03:24 PM
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#16 (permalink)
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Too many cars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offalot
I'm personally a fan of the OM617 Mercedes turbo diesel (3.0) It has enough power to push a big heavy benz sedan, are arguably one of the most reliable motors of all time, they are simple to work on and can be had cheap. A sprinter motor is great but very pricey to work on.
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I test drove a 1980 F150 with an OM617. Great combination! But I'd go with a 240D manual trans. I'm not a fan of any automatics, but the Mercedes auto is my least favorite so far.
I'm putting a 6.2L in a 1980 Chevy. It's not a great engine, but I have it already. I'd prefer a Cummins 4BT, but I'd have to sell the truck to afford the engine.
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2000 Honda Insight
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1988 Honda CRXFi
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06-04-2012, 10:20 PM
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#17 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmay635703
If money is no object,
The C-code motor gets good fe but the 4bt has more power, although a big behoth tends to pull tree stumps better despite its power rating.
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My C-code headed 6.5L should make 250hp and nearly 400 torque no problem.
Those numbers are for C-code 6.2L engines running hot boost.
I will have an intercooler and water injection.
The only 2 numbers I care about is 20+mpg towing and being able to maintain speed on slight inclines and be able to crest east coast mountians at more than 35mph (afton mountian VA, I-64 mile marker 100, west bound ).
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-04-2012, 10:36 PM
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#18 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A 6bt would be cheaper than a 4bt, those things are like gold indeed. The all-chev option mentioned above is certainly the most painless. With guys around knowing which engine/cup/pump to get/avoid/run-away-from, it is a whole lot more attractive.
I only know the 6bt and it is easily capable of that economy, but at greater cost. Not really economy any more as others have mentioned.
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2007 Dodge Ram 3500 SRW 4x4 with 6MT
2003 TDI Beetle
2002 TDI Beetle
currently parked - 1996 Dodge 2500 Cummins Turbodiesel
Custom cab, auto, 3.55 gears
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06-04-2012, 11:19 PM
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#19 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Yeah get the #162 casting, the small valve c-code heads.
They get good fuel milage and don't crack like the later large valve heads.
Idealy you should get the J-code, stanadyne #4911 injector pump. It can shoot more fuel into the engine and do it faster than the c-code pump, it also has the fuel pumping capacity to keep up with the added air from a turbo.
Out of the 5 intake manifolds you can get for the 6.2/6.5L serries I have tested 3 (C,J and F code) and believe the J-code manifold is best.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-05-2012, 09:20 AM
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#20 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes
I test drove a 1980 F150 with an OM617. Great combination! But I'd go with a 240D manual trans. I'm not a fan of any automatics, but the Mercedes auto is my least favorite so far.
I'm putting a 6.2L in a 1980 Chevy. It's not a great engine, but I have it already. I'd prefer a Cummins 4BT, but I'd have to sell the truck to afford the engine.
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I hear ya there. On my 617 swap I went with the auto just cuz I had the whole package already but if I ever get time I plan on somehow switching it to a manual, probably with an adapter plate. I just can't see putting all that effort into switching to a 4 speed 240 trans.
But i paid $400 for the motor/trans if anyone can point out the advantages that make a 4BT worth 10 times more then that, I'm all ears.
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