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Old 10-18-2014, 05:35 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Today's progress, stripping and sanding towards Maaco.






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Old 10-20-2014, 04:09 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Just got the later front suspension / steering / brakes / crossmember / anti-roll bar, except for the springs and struts. Ordered new KYB struts. Now back to the cosmetics.
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Old 10-21-2014, 10:02 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Each different thread has different ideas about how thick of a spacer between the rear of the FC K-member and the SA framerails. I saw this as adjustable anti-dive, but then I'm having difficulty wading through all the search results for that. I'm thinking It safest to start with a stack of spacers totaling 1" thickness, then test drive very cautiously, then go 3/4" thickness, then test again, until I've tested down to no spacer.
Likewise, I think I'll be moving the FC K-member back about 1" to keep the front wheels from being too far forward in the wheelwells.
Comments welcome.
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Old 10-22-2014, 09:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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So a kind person in Washington, calling themself rk970, offered this:
The bottom of the FB frame rails are about 1.5" lower then the FC. When you put in the FC sub frame the front roll center will be "under ground" (on a FC at normal ride height the control arms go up hill toward the center about 5/8"). To low of a roll center equates to lots of weight transfer to the outside tire, dartness/twichy handling and bump steer problems. Now if you section the ends off of the FC subframe and plate it to fit between the frame rails in the proper location for ride height you can correct the roll center. You would also have to section the frame rail to clear the tie rods.
A roll center that is to low will give quick transitions turning left to right. Do not mistake quick transitions for good a "good" handling car.
So now I post this:
More work, but possibly more return on investment. Thank you very much for sharing that.
I guess I will check hood clearance for this V6 just bolting it to the existing pair of front bolts for the subframe, then get to sectioning as practical.
As to the rear suspension, I'm going for a 3-link, with the car's stock lower trailing arms, possibly shortened an inch or 2 so they don't attach behind the axle, that looks stupid, and a top center link, possibly the same length as the lowers, then move the Watt's link to be chassis-mounted, behind the bottom center of the axle. To attach it to the axle, I bought 2 feet of 1.5" x 1.5" x 0.1875" mild steel square tubing. I'll weld this to the leaf spring pads GM welded to the bottoms of the tubes, and have them extend far enough back to clear the diff. Speedway offers a kit for $ 70 that will help, Watts Link - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
and I got a pivot off a '98 Lincoln.
Yesterday I redrilled one rotor successfully, and made progress on the "new" axle.
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Old 10-22-2014, 06:10 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:08 AM   #36 (permalink)
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Old 10-23-2014, 09:18 AM   #37 (permalink)
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Old 10-23-2014, 02:29 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Old 10-24-2014, 10:24 AM   #39 (permalink)
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It was easier to figure out an affordable and easy brake upgrade for the '83 front end than for my FC subframe swap. I know that some 12" brakes can fit in some 15" wheels, and since I'm now forced into using the 4-lug 15" wheels, 12" is what I'm working on. Sure, I was going to go 11" before, but now finding a wrecked FC with the optional 11" 4-piston 5-lug fronts isn't realistic.
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Old 10-24-2014, 02:47 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Between sanding Bondo, spraying primer, and dying the interior parts, I've been studying Napaonline.
If I want to use Mazda calipers, the NB4886041 is 11.88" x 0.87", and $ 42 ea. But I think I want more. I think the next step, playing it safe, is NB4886777, which is just 11.7", but is 1.03" thick, for using the Camaro calipers I have. That's $ 46 per rotor. Either of those are likely to require having their center holes enlarged. And they're both 5 on 4.5, so I'd have to drill 3 new holes in each to make them 4-lug. That's not difficult.
If the 11.7s prove an easy fit, there are NB48880014, also 1.03", but 12.02" and $ 53 ea. Or if I want Mazda calipers and 4-lug without drilling, UP880192 is 12.01" x 0.87" for $ 49 ea.
But then we come to the other spec of cast rotors. The height. Napa gives these specs also, but if you have to make caliper brackets anyway, all that matters is if the height is too shallow for your calipers and your wheels.
If I like what I end up with, I'll offer copies of my brackets.
If I just wanted the biggest cheapest rotors, I found some 12.72" x 1.18" for $ 36 ea. Dunno what low-cost calipers they'd like.
Anyway, that's where my mind is while I'm nearing the deadline for Maaco.

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