So a kind person in Washington, calling themself rk970, offered this:
The bottom of the FB frame rails are about 1.5" lower then the FC. When you put in the FC sub frame the front roll center will be "under ground" (on a FC at normal ride height the control arms go up hill toward the center about 5/8"). To low of a roll center equates to lots of weight transfer to the outside tire, dartness/twichy handling and bump steer problems. Now if you section the ends off of the FC subframe and plate it to fit between the frame rails in the proper location for ride height you can correct the roll center. You would also have to section the frame rail to clear the tie rods.
A roll center that is to low will give quick transitions turning left to right. Do not mistake quick transitions for good a "good" handling car.
So now I post this:
More work, but possibly more return on investment. Thank you very much for sharing that.
I guess I will check hood clearance for this V6 just bolting it to the existing pair of front bolts for the subframe, then get to sectioning as practical.
As to the rear suspension, I'm going for a 3-link, with the car's stock lower trailing arms, possibly shortened an inch or 2 so they don't attach behind the axle, that looks stupid, and a top center link, possibly the same length as the lowers, then move the Watt's link to be chassis-mounted, behind the bottom center of the axle. To attach it to the axle, I bought 2 feet of 1.5" x 1.5" x 0.1875" mild steel square tubing. I'll weld this to the leaf spring pads GM welded to the bottoms of the tubes, and have them extend far enough back to clear the diff. Speedway offers a kit for $ 70 that will help,
Watts Link - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
and I got a pivot off a '98 Lincoln.
Yesterday I redrilled one rotor successfully, and made progress on the "new" axle.
Today
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