94 honda civic vx issues

[RatherDashing]

Originally Posted by Rusty94cx

Use 10 30. Trust me. On any d series trans prior to 96 10w 30 Ask the Honda trans guru mista bone he rebuilds these thing all the time. For normal driving hey says 10 30 the old mtf was great the new stuff stay clear. So. My 2 cents. I spent hours researching this very topic. Sent your clip out today. Don't forget about me. Man we charge to much to ship. Lol. Work for to p.o. It's a package since it's just a hair to thick.

don't worry I don't got u forgotten. im still waiting on my first pay check or my early retirement money whichever comes first this week. package came today I havnt gotten it on there yet tho. tried to get the transmission swapped at the shop today but we cant use blow torches since insurance doesn't cover it. have to take it somewhere else I guess. don't trust myself replacing this. since I hit the jackpot with the vx trans

[Rusty94cx]

Glad you got it what do you need the torches for?

[RatherDashing]

Originally Posted by Rusty94cx

Glad you got it what do you need the torches for?

Getting the bolt on the tire off that holds the axle in.one came out noproblem other was impossible to get off.

I shed be getting retirement paycheck tmmrow and my first paycheck this week I'll paypayl u the money once I got it

Having a shop put in the trans and clutch and replace rear brake drums.

Checked my ecu codes today and looks like a code 20
Electronic load detector

How exactly do i fix it? All iv read online is to replace the fuse panel under the hood

Or could it have been cuz my positive battery cable wasnt on there super tight?

[RatherDashing]

Originally Posted by Ryland

At 3,000 RPM your engine should sound like it's screaming and that something is wrong... a stock VX just doesn't sound right or happy with the engine going that fast, your gas mileage will also suck.

It sounds like the tube under the intake manifold that you are talking about is the PCV tube, that has a grommet that often drys out after 20 years and allows extra air in the engine, most of the time it just causes idle bounce, but if it's in poor enough shape that it's collapsed then it might also have a big hole ripped in it, or be gone all together.

Its because its an si transmission from a d16z6 engine the previous owner replaced with.epic fail.put an so trans into a Vx with stock engine.can't wait til Friday when new transmission and new clutch is put in.

Still trying to figure out how to fix cell code 20
Electrical load detector

[Rusty94cx]

Never seen that code before. Humm. I always use a 4 foot breaker bar to loosen axle nuts. Good luck

[Rusty94cx]

code 20 (electrical Load Detector) question!!! - D-series.org

Clean all grounds. Check all connectors. If all else fails replace underhood fuse box.

[RatherDashing]

just sent u money for the clip. thanks for looking out on that. unfortunately I cant figure out on my life how to get this thing on the bulb. u have any pics or know how to get it on? I found the other one but cudnt find the screw or the other metal piece that holds it in

[RatherDashing]

well transmission and clutch so far is beyond brand new. feels like a whole new civic. I had to replace the tps sensor because I checked the voltage and it was off. took it off and broke the gasket. had to buy a whole new one. this one came with better bolts for it so hopefully it fixed it.

rear passenger brake pads were installed correctly. just followed a youtube video on how to do them. they were in very very bad shape. at least one of them was.

now I drove it around let it warm up. I noticed that while driving and the car is in neutral. the rpms go up and down just under 1k rpms like a vacuum leak. I cant find any anywhere tho. I thought it would have been from the tps cuz the gasket was all janked up.

also I checked the timing with the engine warmed up.i didn't jump the ecu connector thing. but the timing jumps back and forth and wont stay in the same spot. is this normal?

when I check the timing with it jumped its right on the timing mark. and when I installed the belt I made sure the tooth on the bottom was aiming up on the crankshaft pulley and it was at tdc. not sure whats up.

also when the car is not on just the ignition is turned this one vacuum part gets extremely hot is that normal?

when I remove it theres no vacuum to it or anything either.

[Rusty94cx]

You have to put the jumper wire on to check the timing.

[RatherDashing]

I did that. the timing is right on. does it matter if the timing marks while checking the timing without the jumper wire on aren't aligned constantly?

bout to do the brakes on the rear driver side.

on the very first picture I don't have any vacuum on that piece at all. and it gets really hot with just the ignition turned. is this normal?

ima have to get a new throttle body as well. probably off of car-part again. the idle screw is stripped and id like to get this car as well tuned as possible.

its part number 6

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ONTROL+%282%29

no vacuum and really hot when just the ignition on. quite weird, replace? or clean? or is that normal?