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Old 09-19-2014, 08:33 AM   #21 (permalink)
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How well does it seal up?

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Old 09-19-2014, 11:51 PM   #22 (permalink)
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It seals pretty well. The vanes overlap when closed. There are 1/16" gaps on the ends of the vanes where they meet the housing. I can live with that!
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Old 10-02-2014, 09:31 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Old 03-29-2015, 09:38 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasoline Fumes View Post
For hotter climates, I'd probably use two of them.
YES! I'd use two also for C.Y.A...
Always better to have than not

Hmmm, just thinking.
Which way these vanes open? Air pressure shut or motor shut?
Would make a diff. if they open by air pressure while being used ! ? !

Last edited by bikeprof; 03-29-2015 at 09:44 PM..
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Old 03-29-2015, 10:20 PM   #25 (permalink)
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• Air Pressure CLOSE means the motor must power the vanes OPEN...and *IF* it has to HOLD them there...it must HOLD the vanes OPEN against AIR pressure while driving, thus drawing power ALL the time.

• Motor CLOSE means the motor only powers the vanes CLOSED during engine warm-up, then RELEASE its pressure as air pressure while driving takes over, so motor doesn't draw power holding the vanes open.

For car motor sake, it's better to "fail" OPEN than to "fail" CLOSED.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:00 AM   #26 (permalink)
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The motor doesn't hold them open or closed, it just moves them. Whether or not air pressure can move the vanes is something I don't know yet. I'd really prefer vacuum-actuated vanes that default to the open position.
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Old 03-30-2015, 01:25 AM   #27 (permalink)
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This is awesome as I was looking to design and build my own active grille block from scratch. With these, I can actually make use of the pre-made vane mechanism and add my own controller and stepper motor for increased torque and control.
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:34 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tele man View Post
• Air Pressure CLOSE means the motor must power the vanes OPEN...and *IF* it has to HOLD them there...it must HOLD the vanes OPEN against AIR pressure while driving, thus drawing power ALL the time.

• Motor CLOSE means the motor only powers the vanes CLOSED during engine warm-up, then RELEASE its pressure as air pressure while driving takes over, so motor doesn't draw power holding the vanes open.

For car motor sake, it's better to "fail" OPEN than to "fail" CLOSED.
Thanks for adding this info. Tele man...

So always vote for open thermostat than closed, open doors rather than closed, etc... GREAT!
Knowing motor will only actuate the vanes, which way are the vanes moving? If not the proper way then a simple changing of wire polarity may do the trick. Hmmm, BTW, I don't like 'lectricity!
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Old 03-30-2015, 02:50 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I have been thinking about this for my http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...dam-30382.html. I just drove up to Mom's house and Chorizo started overheating every time that I went up hill. I turned on the heater and the car did okay, although I have been getting light-bleeding with my glasses, like all of that hot air did something--something our 400°F convection oven did not do at the bakery.

This one is $7.49 with free shipping. How would I wire this to a blank button in my cabin? http://www.amazon.com/Vent-Miser-916...0JH3X2868TR0ZR
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Old 03-30-2015, 04:48 AM   #30 (permalink)
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gasolinefumes do you have a build thread for your civic wagon im struggling to find it im still newish here. here we get the exact same car as you but in sedan form I was looking at getting one

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