additives for improved mpg?

[RandomFact314]

I wish they did work but I don't bother with any of them b/c I dont want to waste my money

[MetroMPG]

There's a difference between additives that are meant to correct some underlying condition with a vehicle (like cleaners, etc.) and those that aren't. My comments are about the second group:

The EPA has specified test procedures (Gas Saving and Aftermarket Retrofit Device Evaluation Program) which it recommends companies use if they want to sell fuel saving additives.

The vast, vast majority do not follow the prescribed test regimen. Those that have often show no change or such a small change as to be meaningless.

Here's how to evaluate additives. Look at their marketing:

• On road testing doesn't count. If that's the major marketing angle, walk away.

• Testimonials from "satisfied customers" don't count. Walk away.

• Money-back guarantees don't count. Are you equipped to scientifically evaluate their product? Didn't think so. They're hoping you'll view the guarantee is "proof" of effectiveness. It's not. Walk away.

Look for 3rd party, EPA-approved lab testing. (Guess what: you probably won't find any. That should make you wonder why.)

EDIT: as an aside, many companies that sell fuel pills, potions and other dubious stuff will often say that they're "EPA Registered" in their marketing. Doesn't mean squat as far as the effectiveness of their product is concerned. All it means is they've registered with the EPA as a company marketing a fuel saving product - that basic step is required by US law. Touting their "EPA Registeration" is meant to dupe the uninformed and is shady marketing, in my opinion.

Another edit: visit this site the next time you're tempted by an additive or otherwise dubious looking fuel saving device: http://www.fuelsaving.info

[tangomar]

Originally Posted by Christ

Should be a pretty good indication that it's not what it's "cracked up" to be.

You might be right.

I was reading on the BITOG forum about oil additive.
There is a good approval for MMO and AutoRX when used as cleaning formulation. You have to be careful since MMO might remove too much gunk and clog the oil filter reducing the oil pressure. Probably not a bad idea to use it
close to an oil change.

Not much information about Cermax or Autocerm.

Some users instead seems to be very happy with RSV and Cermat. It is very early to say. Before using these I would do a cleaning phase first.

I wouldn't use (this is just my opinion) anything with teflon or eccess of zinc.

This for oil additive.

For fuel, how about the old acetone/xylene/GT2 formulation?

[99LeCouch]

I'm currently using Auto-RX in the oil and Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in the gas. The car is liking the combination. The ARX I've used before, but I'm running another cleaning to counteract any molestation of the engine that might have occurred when I replaced the intake manifold gaskets. The MMO is making the fuel pump quieter, and the car idles a touch smoother.

[NeilBlanchard]

Fuel additives are kinda' like cold remedies -- the fact there are some many means that none of them work!

Think about it -- if one (or two) worked, then the others would be out of business.

[cfg83]

RandomFact314 -

Originally Posted by RandomFact314

I wish they did work but I don't bother with any of them b/c I dont want to waste my money

I'm on the same page with you. My car is old. I want to pour some goop into the engine that will make the inside just like new again! Is that too much to ask?

[EDIT: Ha ha, sounds like a colon cleanse]

CarloSW2

[Christ]

Carlos -

Try 2 quarts of Kerosene... then again, you should also check to make sure there is anything in your engine making it "less than new" in it's current state. Kerosene can damage things... LOL.

I've put tranny fluid in engines when they're really coked up, run it for 100 miles on the highway and through town, then change the oil... usually comes out blacker than black holes, thick and sooty. Afterward, I check the new oil for evidence of buildup and gunk every couple hundred miles. If it's clean, we're good.

MMO is basically trans fliud without additives, and it smells sort of minty. It's gotta be good, because it smells good. It will also "burn out" of your oil within about 1000 miles, so you'll want to check your oil often.

[beaterjeep]

I use Acetone on a pretty regular basis. About 3 oz per 10 gallon ratio. I think that it absorbs moisture similar to iso-heet and possibly increases octane. I experimented with it on a vacation in my wife's car and we consistantly got 3 mpg better with Acetone than without. It's cheap too $15 for a gallon breaks down to about 50 cents per tank.

[Christ]

Originally Posted by beaterjeep

I use Acetone on a pretty regular basis. About 3 oz per 10 gallon ratio. I think that it absorbs moisture similar to iso-heet and possibly increases octane. I experimented with it on a vacation in my wife's car and we consistantly got 3 mpg better with Acetone than without. It's cheap too $15 for a gallon breaks down to about 50 cents per tank.

Acetone evaporates almost as quickly as you pour it.* Acetone, like you get in hobby shops and the like, is also "wet". It doesn't have alot of capacity to be hygroscopic beyond what is already being held, in regards to water.

The octane level of pure Acetone (anhydrous) is ~150... adding 3oz to 10 gallons of 91 octane fuel may get you 92 octane. I'm not even going to do the math, it's such a small change.

The "stigma" of Acetone in fuel is that it's supposed to make the fuel "Easier to digest", by breaking the surface tension of the fuel, allowing it to mix and vaporize completely in the air stream. Of course, it's also completely false.

3MPG is a fairly hefty claim for a Jeep with Acetone. I'd like to see some of your test methods.

As always, welcome to EM!

[thatguitarguy]

Originally Posted by Christ

MMO is basically trans fliud without additives, and it smells sort of minty. It's gotta be good, because it smells good.

aaahhhh Minty fresh!