10-27-2016, 03:59 PM
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#31 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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On previous cars I tried coroplast skits and I could never get them to look good. In retrospect, they probably shouldn't have been exactly the same of the well, but perhaps just square, or only rounded on the front side.
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10-27-2016, 10:13 PM
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#32 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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It seems like if you had a curved, color-matched piece to connect the black body moldings on the rocker and under the back bumper; then a slot cut in the top could accept a piece made from your template. That would strengthen the lower edge, too.
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10-28-2016, 01:45 AM
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#33 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ecky
On previous cars I tried coroplast skits and I could never get them to look good. In retrospect, they probably shouldn't have been exactly the same of the well, but perhaps just square, or only rounded on the front side.
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Yeah. I agree. My first wheel well blanks fit the well itself. My current third gen extends behind the well. And I now think it is maybe too small. On this design I would definitely recommend a longer trailing edge to smooth the transition from the skirt to the rear bumper cover. Also, use the rolled plastic I used. Keeps its color and looks much better than coroplast.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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10-29-2016, 09:18 PM
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#34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freebeard
It seems like if you had a curved, color-matched piece to connect the black body moldings on the rocker and under the back bumper; then a slot cut in the top could accept a piece made from your template. That would strengthen the lower edge, too.
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I see what you are saying. How do yall attach such things at the top of the wheel well? |
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10-30-2016, 01:58 PM
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#35 (permalink)
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Traditionally, Dzus fasteners. I bought a scrap of plastic just to get a sample of this fastener:
It's spring loaded, quarter-turn to lock finger (on the back side) that would grip the edge of the wheelwell's lip. Dzus fasteners require a second part riveted or welded to the lip. |
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10-30-2016, 03:00 PM
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#36 (permalink)
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Cyborg ECU
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If you like running with scrap parts exclusively, or as close to exclusively as possible (as I do), then you might consider how I mounted mine: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post464528
I should warn that I expected this method to scratch the paint around the wheel well, but this was my third attachment method. All the others worked too, but I thought this was optimal in terms of durability, wheel clearance, and coverage--I I took the plunge and thought of it as a permanent mod. It has scratched the paint under the cover, not really badly, but yes... scratches in some places.
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See my car's mod & maintenance thread and my electric bicycle's thread for ongoing projects. I will rebuild Black and Green over decades as parts die, until it becomes a different car of roughly the same shape and color. My minimum fuel economy goal is 55 mpg while averaging posted speed limits. I generally top 60 mpg. See also my Honda manual transmission specs thread.
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11-09-2016, 11:25 AM
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#37 (permalink)
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Hey guys!
Haven't posted in a while, but i got some progress! I made a heat formed pvc frame across the wheel well to secure a newly designed wheel skirt, shwn below. I couldn't find enough Cloroplast so for now it's fiberglassed cardboard.
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11-09-2016, 11:28 AM
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#38 (permalink)
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Another pic:
Please reply with criticism/feedback! |
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11-09-2016, 02:45 PM
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#39 (permalink)
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Is the bottom edge rigid or flexible?
I think it would look good to have a ~2" black bar along the bottom with body color above, convert the crease in the lower front into a little air scoop and bring the top of the 'tail' up to the bumper cutline.
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11-09-2016, 02:48 PM
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#40 (permalink)
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IMO it doesn't look half bad.
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