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Old 09-05-2010, 05:18 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Big inefficient truck - '94 Dodge Ram 2500
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Thanks for that insight, eligh. I do, unfortunately, have the *shudder shudder* renix TBI. It also controls the spark advance, so the distributor has some huge contacts that cover about 80 degrees of the rotation.

I just looked in the electrical manual for my truck (dang handy, eh?) and the ECU does not seem to have any hookup for a knock sensor. I don't know how it decides how to time the spark, other than looking it up on a table and/or using the coolant/air temps and engine speed.

However, the engine does seem to run differently when on premium than when on regular. This could be entirely the placebo effect, but I doubt that. On the other hand, the first time that I ran premium in my truck was before a highway trip (filled up 7-5-10). The engine seemed to be running much smoother and had a more noticeable power band. When I filled up after arriving, I put regular gas in it. The part that leads me to suspect that there is a difference is that I killed it 3 times while pulling out of that station (my TBI circulates fuel from the tank to the injector regulator then back to the tank, so the new fuel had reached the injector by then).

So, I conclude that I cannot scientifically conclude anything with my current data. I've been thinking that if I alternate putting premium and regular, I can get some more data.

Just keep in mind that I care about the best miles/dollar. If it costs more PER GALLON to run more efficiently, as long as the added efficiency offsets the gallon cost, I am happy.



On a different note, what do you guys think of the general safety of this mod? It occurs to me that I have made an attachment that goes about 4 feet behind the bumper, and ends below the bumper. It is not very high visibility. Granted, I want to put some red lights on it to double the turn signals and make one that is on with the ignition hot.

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Old 09-05-2010, 05:29 PM   #42 (permalink)
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I would just add trailer style lights to the back (brake, turn, running). If you move your license plate as well then to the law you just have a 4' longer truck. You could mount the lights at the same height as the current ones (or about half of the way back) and take out the lights on the truck.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:10 PM   #43 (permalink)
I have to start over?
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 214

Big inefficient truck - '94 Dodge Ram 2500
90 day: 12.1 mpg (US)

Honda Civic - '84 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
Thanks: 2
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I just looked up the laws on license plates, and it turns out that I am required to show 2 license plates, one on the front and one on the back. So, even though I am going with your idea of the license plate at the back, I will have to move the plate on the back to the "aerocap" and put it back when I take it off.
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Old 09-05-2010, 06:20 PM   #44 (permalink)
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Since you will have to move it, why not add lights too? I would rig them up to work off a trailer light plug (flat 4), this makes it very easy to get on or off.
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Old 09-05-2010, 07:45 PM   #45 (permalink)
I have to start over?
 
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Big inefficient truck - '94 Dodge Ram 2500
90 day: 12.1 mpg (US)

Honda Civic - '84 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
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Another good idea. I think I'll integrate that idea when I get lights and mount them.

I went and added some more bracing to stop the vibrations. When driving down the road, I found that the rails going from front to back were vibrating/resonating terribly. I was afraid that my welds might just snap off. The short brace halfway from the front to the back of the bed makes that much less loose.

I also added some braces that go from the extreme rear to the bumper, and they bolt onto the sides. The holes will not be very conspicuous with the cap removed, and even if they were, what do I care?


It's starting to look like something! It looks different in person. Almost like a fuselage (I can dream)
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Old 09-05-2010, 08:44 PM   #46 (permalink)
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What is your top material going to be? if it plastic I would add more bracing diagonally in each square on the top. This will greatly improve stability and will add more mount points.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:04 PM   #47 (permalink)
I have to start over?
 
Join Date: May 2010
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Big inefficient truck - '94 Dodge Ram 2500
90 day: 12.1 mpg (US)

Honda Civic - '84 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
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I'm initially going to go with plastic sheeting, but after that (once it wears out) I think I will try to source some kind of heavy duty flexible material... like coroplast. I will need at least 4 4x8 sheets to do everything I want to do to my truck.
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Old 09-05-2010, 09:22 PM   #48 (permalink)
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use Plexiglas or lexan for the part you look through in your rear view mirror!

The plastic should work fine for testing, just stretch it tight. The colorplast will add a some rigidity.
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Old 09-05-2010, 10:45 PM   #49 (permalink)
I have to start over?
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 214

Big inefficient truck - '94 Dodge Ram 2500
90 day: 12.1 mpg (US)

Honda Civic - '84 Honda Civic DX Hatchback
Thanks: 2
Thanked 8 Times in 7 Posts
Rear view mirror? Who needs a rearview mirror? I don't need no stinkin' rearview mirror!

Because I am used to the camper shell which has opaque plastic for the rear window.

On a side note, I am very happy with how well the cap is turning out.

Last edited by usergone; 09-05-2010 at 11:17 PM..
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Old 09-06-2010, 03:19 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I was going to ask if you're not going to curve the boat-tail inward from behind the tailgate onwards, but then I thought, it's probably better to be able to see the rear edge of it in your side-mirrors than not. I think this is going to turn out quite well

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