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Old 12-13-2011, 03:10 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sven7 View Post
Ok, so earlier we were referring to locked diffs. Why would you lock your diffs on pavement?
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Originally Posted by 66sprint6 View Post
Lockin your hubs and lockin your diff = two different things. Locking the hubs will allow the power to go to the front wheels, lockin the diffs keep both front or both rear tires goin together. Locked diffs are NOT good on pavement, but runnin around town with your hubs locked when you think you will need it will NOT hurt a thing.
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Didnt want this to get lost, I was tryin to answer Sven7. I know guys who have devoted Mud trucks or offroad vehicles with locked diffs who will drive on pavement from time to time, but they will bark tires around every turn lol.
Matt

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Old 12-13-2011, 07:05 PM   #62 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 66sprint6 View Post
What? Forcing my tires to break loose how? You do know that it only hops when doin a sharp turn, on mine it only happens right before full lock turn. You just have to watch out for sharp turns (dont try to u turn in the same lane lol). In Ice and any other condition your gonna be goin SLOW around those turns...at least you should be. Therefore if there is any slip, its not that big of a deal and still safe. You also know that unless you have a LOCKER in the front or rear diff, the tires will go at different speeds around turns regardless of whether you have 4wd engaged or your front hubs locked. They are the same as an open rear differential. "Locking" the hubs doesnt mean locking the diff itself, it just allows you to get the power from the transfer case to the wheels. You can argue all you want, but 4wd on an icy road is better than 2wd in same vehicle. FACT. Another fact is that is doesnt matter how many wheels you have spinnin, if they are spinnin they arent gripping and your in for trouble so you still gotta drive smart lol
Matt

What about bigger sweeping turns? Do you slow to a crawl?

Yes, the left and right wheels aren't locked together, but the front and rear are.
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Old 12-14-2011, 12:00 AM   #63 (permalink)
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Would be no issue if you have a fully built rig with uprated diffs, but I've seen people wreck stock 4x4 systems by leaving the center diff locked on pavement. Not fun. Not cheap.

Not great for your tires, either... OR your fuel economy, which is a good as reason as any to leave the system disengaged if you don't need it. And if you're on pavement and have the right tires (good snows or summers), you usually don't need it.
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:32 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winkosmosis View Post
What about bigger sweeping turns? Do you slow to a crawl?

Yes, the left and right wheels aren't locked together, but the front and rear are.
It doesnt hop or pop in sweeping turns, and any risk of breakage from whatever your tryin to prove me wrong with is worth taking on in exchange for added stability.

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Originally Posted by niky View Post
Would be no issue if you have a fully built rig with uprated diffs, but I've seen people wreck stock 4x4 systems by leaving the center diff locked on pavement. Not fun. Not cheap.

Not great for your tires, either... OR your fuel economy, which is a good as reason as any to leave the system disengaged if you don't need it. And if you're on pavement and have the right tires (good snows or summers), you usually don't need it.
Bone stock, 180K miles, bought originally in Knoxville TN and used as a winter beater then brought down to Middle TN and used just the same...no issues. Never had the transfer case or either axles serviced either come to think of it. **** does happen, Ive seen some CRAZY stuff too so no arguement there! With nothin in the bed on a pickup you could have studded tires and still have issues. Tires are only part of the equation, but thats another arguement to trainwreck another persons thread some other time Im not worried about MPG when the snow/ice hits the twisty, skinny backroad with 6ft ditches on either side that I live on...Ill continue to lock my hubs and take on the risk of utter and complete driveline devastation!
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Old 12-14-2011, 11:39 AM   #65 (permalink)
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I don't mind off-topic to some degree but we are no longer talking aero or air dams. This should be split off to "Driving around in 4x4 on high traction surfaces".
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Old 12-14-2011, 06:31 PM   #66 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I don't mind off-topic to some degree but we are no longer talking aero or air dams. This should be split off to "Driving around in 4x4 on high traction surfaces".
Sorry man This place seems to love to get off track and now Im part of it lol.

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Old 10-29-2013, 01:50 AM   #67 (permalink)
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Lawn edging airdam.
I started working with this LE from home depot. I did a partial grill block.
Has anyone boiled this stuff in hot water to see if it can be hammered or molding a bit or so.???
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:53 AM   #68 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by TexasCotton View Post
I started working with this LE from home depot. I did a partial grill block.
Has anyone boiled this stuff in hot water to see if it can be hammered or molding a bit or so.???
I tried a heat gun. Not very effective. I used the curvature built in for the curvature of the airdam. Infact, that curvature offers some rigidity under speed, against the air flow. You probably don't need the airdam to be even with the lower part of the bumper. Instead all you really need is to keep air from going fully under the car and from crashing straight into the front of the tires.
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Old 10-29-2013, 02:56 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Lets get back on track.
4" lawn edging, shouda got 6". Had enough to do my truck and car, for $6.
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:23 AM   #70 (permalink)
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^^ Dude.

You've only got the one fuel log entry. How's the truck doing with the LE dam?

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