Any Worthwhile Additives?

[darkdan]

Originally Posted by brucey

I have full support for seafoam. I had a samurai that would NOT run at all. Had trouble idling, and 0 power. Ran 1/3rd a can in the oil, 1/3rd can in the gas, and poured the rest right down the carb. Truck ran like it was brand new then.

Seafoam through the carb or for the FI people sucked in through a vacuum line on a hot motor works wonders.

This works via two methods. One is solvency (do I have to explain this one?) and the second is thermal shock. The cold Seafoam hits the hot carbon and causes it to quickly contract. This breaks it's kung fu grip on the piston top.

However, water has been used in the same manner for many years, but considering Seafoam's volatility it's safer.

Having said that, I still do not believe it should be used in the crankcase since it's low viscosity and high volatility and the lack of lubrication properties means it shouldn't be in the oil. Also, it's far too weak to be used in the fuel tank.

[texanidiot25]

But FYI is anyone has never used it, absolutely do not let the car stall when letting seafoam in through the vacuum lines. Risk hydro-locking the engine. Kinda let the vacuum line "sip" the Seafoam out of a cup or something of the sort.

[darkdan]

Back when I used to use seafoam (before I discovered FP60 by Lube Control) I always let mine stall.

Seafoam has such high volatility and low flash point I highly doubt you'd hydrolock the engine unless you used a significant amount. I only used 1 oz per cylinder (so 8 oz on my V8, 4 oz on my 4 banger).

If there was a risk you'd hear about it on the internet all the time.

Besides, one of the two ways Seafoam works is by solvency. You want it in liquid foam on the piston.

[RH77]

When I first used it, the recommendation was to slowly pour it in the vac line, then let it stall after 1/2 a can or so (pour it in faster).

Then wait 5-10 minutes for the solvent to start working on the gunk...

...and then go out crank it over. Then "briskly" accelerate the vehicle to blow out the carbon in white smoke form.

If you left it running, the smoke would build-up in the area where you're working, while you re-attach the booster line. You really have to drive the vehicle to clear all of this out. I haven't had any vapor-lock problems in over 10 applications, in different vehicles. Has anyone had this problem?

The problem I have with most of the other brands is that you have to special order them or go through a dealer of some sort. I just go to the auto parts store and pick up a few cans of SeaFoam.

RH77

[hummingbird]

I am browsing the site for a useful additive, and came across this thread...just prior to this, I was searching for acetone references...

Don't get me wrong, today is my fill-up day after a month long gap, so was gathering all info I could to further improve my mpg ratings...

There seems to be some reactionary bias to the attitude prevailing on the fora here... trikkonceptz (hopefully the spelling is right) was the one who was trying to tell that he was getting some 3 mpg advantage using acetone, and he was mauled almost to death for saying that. But in this thread I see that everyone is blithely talking about the additive of his/her own choice, without substantiating anything about it, neither through fuel logs, nor through demonstrable experiments. And those experiments that did show improvements with acetone were attributed to placebo effect, etc etc.

Can we have some objective support to the claims made for various additives discussed here, so I can make up my mind as to what to zero on for my next tank? Thanks in advance!!

[festivaWES]

I'm with mullet on this one.....additives a junk.

[MetroMPG]

Can we have some objective support to the claims made for various additives discussed here

In short,"no".

It is next to impossible for a driver to produce reliable or valid results of fuel or oil additives in on-road driving because it is next to impossible to do A-B-A comparisons in identical conditions. Tank to tank comparisons don't qualify as reliable.

Unless you can find laboratory results of additive effects from a reputable 3rd party, I wouldn't waste my time on them. You'll have better results applying these ideas first, then these.

[Coyote X]

I always use kerosene to flush the oil on a really dirty engine and windshield washer fluid to clean the combustion chambers.

My grandmother had a 93 Tempo with 1000 miles on it ~10 years later I got the car. I knew the engine would be a mess from only going 2 miles to church and back. So I put a quart of kerosene in the oil so it was a bit overfilled. I drove it up the road about 5 miles keeping the rpms up then changed the oil. It was like sludge coming out. I had to change the oil 3 times that day using cheap oil to get it cleaned out good but when I was done inside the valve cover looked new again. I figured it probably wore the engine some but overall it was better off. That car was really unreliable since it sat for so long. I don't think I will ever deal with another 'driven by an old lady' car. They have way to many age related issues over time.

On the top end I usually just run a hose from a ported vacuum source to the washer fluid tank. I used to just twist a wire around the hose to restrict flow but using a clear hose and fish tank gang valve is much nicer so that is what I use now. I drive the car normal and run about a gallon of fluid through the engine like that over about 50-100 miles. On the few engines I have done that to that I have took apart they all had very clean pistons and heads. Doing that every 10-25k miles seems to be about all that is needed. I have never tried seafoam but I figure it does basically the same thing.

[Formula413]

Windshield washer fluid in place of Seafoam? Hmmm...

I can second the experience of a car that wasn't driven much having problems. My second car was a 1990 Geo Prizm, I bought it in 2001 with about 80K miles on it. Despite being built by Toyota I had more problems with that car than any other car I've owned by far. Cars need to be driven.

[cfg83]

geoff -

Originally Posted by geoff

Few, sorry, I didnt mean for that to run so long! Well as you can see I am a fan of Redline products and Lucas injector cleaner.

I am using Redline fuel injector cleaner in my gas tank right now. I picked up on it because Redline oil is sold on a Saturn performance parts website.

Another website devoted to all-things-oil is Bob is the Oil Guy :

Bob Is The Oil Guy

CarloSW2