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Old 03-27-2010, 07:49 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomFact314 View Post
I Don't understand because the designs are essentially the same, the top grill is blocked, the fake fog light holes and the middle of the lower grill block, please elaborate if possible
You're right, they are essentially the same and I didn't mean to single out ONLY the later one.




I personally see this as much better. Though I am not aerodynamics expert. I would run it all the way to the headlamps and make new flush mounted turn signals or make the grille cover out of a transparent material in that area so the lights can be seen.



But again, it really comes down to, where is that air going that goes thru the bumper? If it has a good clean path then I think it is better than enlarging the frontal area. I am new to this ecomodding thinking so give me some room here. I know in racing you wouldn't want that air under the car as it would effect the traction. But in ecommoding, is that a bad thing? All this turns into a serious gray area I think.

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Old 03-28-2010, 01:30 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
You're right..... I am new to this ecomodding thinking so give me some room here. I know in racing you wouldn't want that air under the car as it would effect the traction. But in ecommoding, is that a bad thing? All this turns into a serious gray area I think.

Brian
If your having trouble wondering if the air dam vs. frontal area confuses you, your should look at this: He got like a 6.25% improvement in MPG with one... Its a very good article that helped me with learning some of the hypermiling basics...

$11 worth of mods plus new tires – Car and Driver improves MPG by 25%
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Old 03-29-2010, 08:26 AM   #23 (permalink)
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It is my understanding that the usual calculations for frontal area for aerodynamic purposes include the area from the road to the bottom of the vehicle since the air going under actually contributes more drag than the air flowing around the body. This is why front air dams and lowering work to reduce drag
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Old 03-29-2010, 09:59 AM   #24 (permalink)
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It looks like I will watch what I say until I understand more. I just see that big flat front and it screams poor aerodynamics. If it is more "tear drop shaped" with no holes, of course, that is is perfection. But when I see the flat front, I see SUV.

But in that trade off.......the large flat frontal area may be better than some air going under the car? Ok, I will study a bit on the subject.

Brian
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Old 03-29-2010, 11:24 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Don't think of it as a big flat front.. It doesn't have to be flat. Try to picture a shape that redirects air as smoothly as possible away from the aerodynamic nightmare of the underside of your vehicle and towards the relatively aerodynamic top and sides.
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:26 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devon Hynes View Post
I thought about doing something similar. My plans was to buy a second used bumper and stretch fabric over the inlet. fiberglass over it sand, prime and paint.
What are the guys using for speaker & sub boxes? Would that work stuck out on front of the car?
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:35 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by micondie View Post
Don't think of it as a big flat front.. It doesn't have to be flat. Try to picture a shape that redirects air as smoothly as possible away from the aerodynamic nightmare of the underside of your vehicle and towards the relatively aerodynamic top and sides.
Very simple and to the point, thanks!

Brian
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Old 03-29-2010, 12:43 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Brian -

Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
It looks like I will watch what I say until I understand more. I just see that big flat front and it screams poor aerodynamics. If it is more "tear drop shaped" with no holes, of course, that is is perfection. But when I see the flat front, I see SUV.

But in that trade off.......the large flat frontal area may be better than some air going under the car? Ok, I will study a bit on the subject.

Brian
Don't worry, I have been here for years and I can't figure out this aero-stuff. One of our members, aerohead, is an aero-pioneer. Here is his photo collection of aero-dynamic pickups :

Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum - EcoModder.com - aerohead's Album: Pickup images


In most cases, the main worry is how the tear-drop finishes, not how it starts.

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Old 04-02-2010, 08:59 PM   #29 (permalink)
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cfg83 was referring to me in one of the earlier posts. i basically did what was in that video except i didn't use wood. i bent a thin piece of plastic, used double-sided tape to keep the contour and started to fiberglass a piece so that it would fit perfectly in the fog light indentation. it is very time consuming.... mostly because it takes forever for fiberglass resin to dry.

tomo did the foam spray method and it seems to have worked for him. a small opening for the radiator is enough for our little civics.

if youre going to use my method, you should do it in coroplast or cardboard first to get a template anyway. then see if you've blocked off too much. this way you can alter the template before the fiberglass work.

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Old 04-02-2010, 10:02 PM   #30 (permalink)
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"it is very time consuming.... mostly because it takes forever for fiberglass resin to dry. "

Fiberglass resin does not dry, it sets. If it is setting slowly, it is usually due to bad measuring, inadequate mixing, or unwaxed ester resin in contact with air. With the esters, the percentage of catalyst should be adjusted according to ambient temperature, but the minimum time to sandpaper-stage is under a half hour.

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