Go Back   EcoModder Forum > EcoModding > Aerodynamics
Register Now
 Register Now
 

Reply  Post New Thread
 
Submit Tools LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 01-14-2009, 05:13 PM   This thread is in the EcoModder Project Library | #1 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,587 Times in 1,554 Posts
Arduino controlled automatically actuated grill block

(NOTE - Nov, 2012 - the original grill block described in the first part of this thread didn't work well. Jump to post #94 to see the redesigned version.)

-----

I've been poking around with the Arduino for a little while trying to figure out how to get this project to work. I've compiled a bit of info on it, but Darin finally bugged me enough to get me to post the info as some help definitely wouldn't hurt. Also, this is by far not an area of expertise (electronics) for me. I know just enough to start getting me into trouble. I've only gotten this far through a lot of web surfing and reading up on things and some help from dcb (thanks again). So, I'm throwing out my initial designs for you to all look at, tear apart, and come up with something good we can all use.

Anyway, this is the general idea. Use the arduino to monitor a temperature sensor. This is an additional sensor (no splicing into existing car wiring) will be monitoring coolant temperature. It will be mounted in a radiator hose coupling that will need to be spliced in after the thermostat. Monitoring the temperature from this sensor, the arduino will output commands to a h-bridge which will control a simple two wire electric door lock actuator. This actuator will close and open the grill block door. Sounds pretty simple eh? Well, its not, at least not for me.

The current problem I'm having is finding an acceptable h-bridge. Almost everything I seem to find is surface mount, and I'm not even exactly sure what specs to look for in this thing. I think I found an acceptable one. Its the TLE 5205-2. Its in a P0-220-7 case so it can actually be worked with. The down side is its (I'm guessing) overkill as it can handle 5A continuous, and its also a bit pricy at $7.50. As I was browsing mouser and digikey there were a lot of cheaper chips, but as I said, mostly surface mount. I'd obviously like to keep the price down where ever possible.

Here is the list of necessary items:
Arduino of your choosing
LM61 temperature sensor in a TO-92 case
Electric door lock actuator
h-bridge
radiator hose coupling (local automotive store, mcmaster)
wire
grill block of your design


I have most of the arduino coding done, but I'm not going to bother posting it as it may change depending on the h-bridge.

All in all, I think this can be put together fairly cheap. I've looked into other ways of doing this and this is easiest, most customizable and cheapest way I've found.

__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Daox For This Useful Post:
christofoo (11-17-2013), khafra (06-09-2011)
Alt Today
Popular topics

Other popular topics in this forum...

   
Old 01-14-2009, 05:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
NightKnight
 
NachtRitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Placerville, CA
Posts: 1,595

Helga - '00 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
TEAM VW AUDI Group
Diesel
90 day: 51.85 mpg (US)

Mathilde - '99 Volkswagen Eurovan Camper
90 day: 16.87 mpg (US)
Thanks: 314
Thanked 314 Times in 187 Posts
Awesome idea!! I'll be watching the progress of this one...
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
Batman Junior
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 1000 Islands, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,527

Blackfly - '98 Geo Metro
Team Metro
Last 3: 70.09 mpg (US)

MPGiata - '90 Mazda Miata
90 day: 54.46 mpg (US)

Even Fancier Metro - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage top spec
90 day: 70.75 mpg (US)

Appliance car Mirage - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage ES (base)
90 day: 62.14 mpg (US)
Thanks: 4,078
Thanked 6,976 Times in 3,612 Posts
Agreed - fun project.

Remind us again what the h-bridge does?
__________________
Project MPGiata! Mods for getting 50+ MPG from a 1990 Miata
Honda mods: Ecomodding my $800 Honda Fit 5-speed beater
Mitsu mods: 70 MPG in my ecomodded, dirt cheap, 3-cylinder Mirage.
Ecodriving test: Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown



EcoModder
has launched a forum for the efficient new Mitsubishi Mirage
www.MetroMPG.com - fuel efficiency info for Geo Metro owners
www.ForkenSwift.com - electric car conversion on a beer budget
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 07:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
Administrator
 
Daox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Germantown, WI
Posts: 11,203

CM400E - '81 Honda CM400E
90 day: 51.49 mpg (US)

Daox's Grey Prius - '04 Toyota Prius
Team Toyota
90 day: 49.53 mpg (US)

Daox's Insight - '00 Honda Insight
90 day: 64.33 mpg (US)

Swarthy - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage DE
Mitsubishi
90 day: 56.69 mpg (US)

Daox's Volt - '13 Chevrolet Volt
Thanks: 2,501
Thanked 2,587 Times in 1,554 Posts
The h-bridge is a neato chip that will help me control the actuator. To understand why I need it I'll explain how the actuator works. The actuator is a really simple and dumb device. It only has two wires. You apply voltage to lead 1, and ground lead 2 and the actuator extends outward. If you apply voltage to lead 2, and ground lead 1 the actuator tries to go back inward. Its not even smart enough to cut power after its already fully extended, it just keeps trying to go out (or in) even once it has hit its internal stops. Anyway, the h-bridge lets me take two output pins from the arduino, hook them up to the h-bridge, and control the actuator. The h-bridge does the polarity reversing for you based on the inputs it gets from the arduino. It also handles the amperage needed to power the actuator kinda like a mosfet or relay would. If you tried to power the actuator with the arduino it would burn it out.
__________________
Current project: A better alternator delete
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 07:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
Batman Junior
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: 1000 Islands, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 22,527

Blackfly - '98 Geo Metro
Team Metro
Last 3: 70.09 mpg (US)

MPGiata - '90 Mazda Miata
90 day: 54.46 mpg (US)

Even Fancier Metro - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage top spec
90 day: 70.75 mpg (US)

Appliance car Mirage - '14 Mitsubishi Mirage ES (base)
90 day: 62.14 mpg (US)
Thanks: 4,078
Thanked 6,976 Times in 3,612 Posts
Gotcha. Thanks for clarifying.
__________________
Project MPGiata! Mods for getting 50+ MPG from a 1990 Miata
Honda mods: Ecomodding my $800 Honda Fit 5-speed beater
Mitsu mods: 70 MPG in my ecomodded, dirt cheap, 3-cylinder Mirage.
Ecodriving test: Manual vs. automatic transmission MPG showdown



EcoModder
has launched a forum for the efficient new Mitsubishi Mirage
www.MetroMPG.com - fuel efficiency info for Geo Metro owners
www.ForkenSwift.com - electric car conversion on a beer budget
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 09:15 PM   #6 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Sweetwater, TN
Posts: 74

The Green Hornet - '96 Ford Escort Wagon LX
90 day: 39.26 mpg (US)

The Red Rocket - '96 Geo Metro Base
90 day: 53.07 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Interesting idea. You need to plumb your sensor not only after the tstat, but after the radiator as well. You want to know how hot the coolant is before it goes in the motor, not after the fact. This will give you a little safety factor. You also need to allow for overlap in the temps. In other words, door opens at 220 degrees and closes when at 210. Otherwise, hysterisis will take place and door will get "confused".
__________________

  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 09:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
NightKnight
 
NachtRitter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Placerville, CA
Posts: 1,595

Helga - '00 Volkswagen Jetta TDI
TEAM VW AUDI Group
Diesel
90 day: 51.85 mpg (US)

Mathilde - '99 Volkswagen Eurovan Camper
90 day: 16.87 mpg (US)
Thanks: 314
Thanked 314 Times in 187 Posts
Interesting... that's actually what I thought the "h" in "h-bridge" stood for... hysterisis... Tells you what I know...
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 09:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13

DarkFit - '08 Honda Fit Sport
90 day: 32.78 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How about just have it open when the electric fan comes on? If you have an electric fan of course.
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 09:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
Master EcoModder
 
vtec-e's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ireland
Posts: 507

De Yaris - '04 toyota yaris T2
90 day: 69.55 mpg (US)
Thanks: 111
Thanked 32 Times in 22 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by poindexter View Post
How about just have it open when the electric fan comes on? If you have an electric fan of course.
My guess is that you would end up having the fan coming on and off constantly. It would cool as normally, due to the grille being open, but things would heat up rapidly upon the grille closing. Having the motorised grille block open at a temp below the cut in temp of the fan would help level out the temps before the fan cuts in. What would be really "cool" would be to have it on a servo motor so the grille could close by an amount that would hold the temps at a pre-determined level. As you'd drive through cold pockets of air, it would close slightly and vice versa. Awesome!

ollie
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 01-14-2009, 10:01 PM   #10 (permalink)
EcoModding Lurker
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ohio
Posts: 13

DarkFit - '08 Honda Fit Sport
90 day: 32.78 mpg (US)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vtec-e View Post
My guess is that you would end up having the fan coming on and off constantly. It would cool as normally, due to the grille being open, but things would heat up rapidly upon the grille closing. Having the motorised grille block open at a temp below the cut in temp of the fan would help level out the temps before the fan cuts in. What would be really "cool" would be to have it on a servo motor so the grille could close by an amount that would hold the temps at a pre-determined level. As you'd drive through cold pockets of air, it would close slightly and vice versa. Awesome!

ollie
Good point and cool idea.

I don't think just any grille block design would work with a door lock actuator. At some point I imagined having just a cover that hinges forward to open, but I think a door lock actuator wouldn't have any holding force once the voltage is removed. Maybe a grille block with a sliding slotted door would be good.

__________________
  Reply With Quote
Reply  Post New Thread


Tags
actuated, ardunio, automatic, grill block

Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Permanent Aluminum Grill Block and Belly Pan Markmysite EcoModding Central 41 02-27-2014 10:22 PM
Lower Grill Block 2005 Honda Civic Arminius EcoModding Central 12 10-04-2011 01:31 AM
DIY - Front Grill Block - 1991 Honda CRX SVOboy DIY / How-to 33 06-24-2011 06:16 PM
Airdam and grill block on the Mirage BrianAbington Aerodynamics 5 10-15-2008 07:54 PM
another project idea: electronically controlled grill block rjacob Aerodynamics 3 07-10-2008 05:36 PM



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.5.2
All content copyright EcoModder.com