Binky the Civic Build Thread

[freebeard]

I don't even know where Manitoba is () but local to me is Multi-craft Plastics.

Multi-Craft Plastics
http://multicraftplastics.com/
Portland/Headquarters 7298 SW Tech Center Drive Tigard, OR 97223-8046 TF: 1-800-488-9030 V: 503-352-0970 F: 503-352-0980 Portland@multicraftplastics.com
Multi-Craft Plastics
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Contact Multi-Craft
Kent & Seattle Metro Kent Toll Free: 1-800-432-1771 Kent Local:...
Engraving Material
Engraving Material. Portland/Headquarters 7298 SW Tech Center Drive...
Industry Partners
Coroplast's main product is corrugated plastic sheet. This plastic...
Clear Acrylic Cast Sheet
Clear Acrylic Cast Sheet. Portland/Headquarters 7298 SW Tech Center...
PETG
PETG. Portland/Headquarters 7298 SW Tech Center Drive Tigard, OR...

[not] Sorry [enough] about the formatting. I got remnants of Polymetal from their Eugene location.

[JacobLeSann]

Manitoba? Southwest of Normal

I’ll look into both Polymetal and ABS sheet, sooner or later. Thanks for the heads up guys. My dad is a contractor so that could help with any possible orders. No sign shops around me but I could look around at the local recycling center/dump.

Hmm. The car’s name is “Binky”, haha. Maybe this thread could be renamed “Binky the Civic Build Thread”. “Blue Civic Build Thread” would work too.

[Vman455]

You can find ABS sheet lots of places online; even Amazon has various sizes and thicknesses (eg 2' x 4' x 1/8" for $40).

(Thread title updated).

[JacobLeSann]

Thanks! Goofy thread name, I like it.
I’ll look into Amazon. I’ve looked for Lexan sheets and found a selection on there so ABS is likely available as you say.


Engine’s out! More to fix than I had first realized. Will be fun.

[JacobLeSann]

I’ve returned.

Im designing some better schematics for possible aero-mod/ and I’m reconsidering my decision not to use any modifications at the rear windshield area (there’s a term for the rear windshield angle, which I can’t recall). I’ve studied the area and I’m fairly certain that the biggest problem is turbulence at the B pillars, as they do not blend in nicely to rear windshield. Modifying the rear is likely to help a lot in lowering drag.

https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...-24419-19.html

In this thread, they designed a little clear acrylic box to go behind the windshield, and smooth the airflow, as well as reduce the rake of the rear glass. I want to make my own version of this for my car. However, I want to know whether this would fog/ice up terribly. I feel like ice isn’t a big deal (my rear windshield is already a wall of ice right now), but trapped moisture could be bad. I think I might design a simple ventilation system into it.

[freebeard]

C-pillar?

I remember that build thread, especially at Permalink #131 when we were both describing the Watts 4-Bar linkage.

The problem will be sealing well enough. That aeroform lifted when air got underneath the edge. A good all-around seal with strategically placed NACA ducts is probably what you'd be looking for.

Have a look at christofoo's example:



There is a 1" or 1 1/2" step at the C-pillar. That turns the boat tail into a wake filler covered in [attached] turbulence. If the liftback wraps around the C-pillar at least to a neutral angle it can retain whatever attachment you have down the sides with those flush windows.

[JacobLeSann]

C-pillar, not B. Looking at the lift back, I noticed the same problem you did. I’ll work around that and try as best as possible to keep the transition smooth.

You don’t think a small gap, I.E. 1/4”-3/8” would cause the same problem? I imagine it would, but maybe not? NACA ducts will be probably have to be made from fibreglass and riveted onto the glass.



(Photo from Australia)

Here’s a little sketch. Vaguely reminds me of an RX7. There was a 75MPG Civic VX build on here that I really liked, and I think I’ll copy it’s rear wheel spats. I’m considering cutting out sections of the rear bumper, to make it look sort of like the Porsche Can-Am 917/30 and similar cars. Might end up collecting dirt due to the turbulence in the wake, but maybe it’ll be okay.
I should do some larger images, and use a scanner/laptop instead of this stupid phone.

[freebeard]

You don’t think a small gap, I.E. 1/4”-3/8” would cause the same problem?

I watched aerohead tape the gap on his T-100's bed gap at the Darko wind tunnel so he would have hard data. [citation needed]

One might finesse the edge so that the gap isn't on a flat plane, but at the bottom of a shallow crease. Don't know about that. 120° instead of 180° should suffice.

A pickup bed aerocap would be a good model to follow. Examples vary. But they exhibit how to add plan taper. See also the 'bubble-top coupe'.

[JacobLeSann]

You’ve mentioned a bubble-top coupe before. I still don’t quite follow. All I can find is 50’s three box “bubble-top” coupes when I google the term. Copying pickup truck bed caps is a perfect idea.

Well, I’m currently replacing seals and painting/cleaning. Gonna start putting everything together soon.

Any opinions on what engine accessories to get rid of? I have power locks (but they don’t work), power windows, power steering, and AC. Thinking of getting rid of the power steering, as I’ve noticed the car seems just fine during EOC, if not a bit heavy at low speed in parking lots. Not sure how much of a MPG gain there is to be had from it. Curb weight is listed as 2,460lbs. Considering deleting cruise control as I never use it, but I feel like it won’t do anything, as it’s maybe 5lbs.

[M_a_t_t]

My car is 2371 lbs without me in it (verified via a scale at the scrap yard). I deleted my P/S and don't have an issue. I have to use 2 hands when stopped, but as soon as its rolling I can turn one handed. Kind of inconvenient when doing a multi point turn, but that doesn't happen often for me. I found no A/C sucks in the middle of summer, but I ride my motorcycle as often as possible then so it's not a big deal. I deleted the power locks among other interior things. Since I'm the only one who ever rides in the car it is no inconvenience for me to have removed the power locks. I don't think the cruise control is worth it. I think I saved 3 lbs taking mine out. If you just want to see how light you can make it then go for it though. I removed almost all of the interior in my car. Including the inside door handles. Since there is no door panels on I just reach through the door and pull on the linkage for the outside handle. The heat doesn't work very good now though since there is no insulation to keep it in so make sure you think about how it will affect you in all situations. Otherwise, have fun. It's your car.