Boat tail - Redneck style...

[RedDevil]

Originally Posted by Cd

FiberFix - sounds like a laxative.

Oat tail rather than boat tail

[dirtydave]

I love how I bumped an old thread and yall just continue the conversation you had months ago like it was only a few minutes.

[Focus-Ak]

Originally Posted by redneck

. ... SC to Pittsburgh PA: 692.3 mi 8.74 gal (US) l 79.21 mpg (US); [etc.]. ... >

Just curious, do you recall what average speed or range of speeds you were running on these various trips? (Awesome performance, in any case!)

[redneck]

Originally Posted by dirtydave

Any updates on the status of the boattail?

Any tips for me to copy the style?
Im planning on using screws and big washers + tape. Does that sound like a good idea?

Structurally, the boat tail is still strong and doing great. The foam covering is holding up fairly well considering that it's exposed to the elements 24/7. There is some cracking and degrading of the surface.


Tips;

1/2" EMT works great for the frame. It is light and easy to bend and weld. Build the frame with lots of triangle bracing for extra strength. Attach frame to the vehicle at several places for increased strength.

Do not use Gorilla tape as it shrinks and stretches badly.

3M duct tape is not much better or UV resistant and fails fairly quick also. (I'm going to try reinforced aluminumized HVAC duct tape next time I retape)

Screws with fender washers should be ok. However, every install is different.


Once I get to the point that I'm satisfied. I'm going to replace the foam with more permanent materials like aluminum and fiberglass.


Hope that helps.




>

[redneck]

Originally Posted by Ecky

I was about to ask the same question about the belly pan. Would bolts + large washers work with 1/2" insulation, or will it tear eventually? How does it hold up against road debris?

A 4x8 sheet of 1/2" foam weighs less than 1.5 lbs. so it doesn't take much to hold it in place. Use aluminum flashing to overlap and join sections. Spray with contact glue to attach the aluminum to the foam. If your worried about strength, glue a piece of aluminum flashing first to the foam at the attachment point. Always use a fender washer with screws and or bolts for extra resistance to keep it from pulling through.

The bottom shows scars from road debris but has held up fairly well. Wind though if it gets behind a panel will remove your hard work quickly. I lost a small portion behind the rear suspension. Make sure that it is sealed well and attached firmly.



>

[freebeard]

Originally Posted by dirtydave

Any tips for me to copy the style?
Im planning on using screws and big washers + tape. Does that sound like a good idea?

Were it I, it would be framed based [perhaps loosely] on this principle:


The conduit, straight or curved can make triangles, diamonds or hexagons—your choice. Used arithmatically-derived lengths insures symmetry.

Instead of relying on tape, you could slip the leading edge up under a piece of flashing metal, with rivets.

[redneck]

Originally Posted by Focus-Ak

Just curious, do you recall what average speed or range of speeds you were running on these various trips? (Awesome performance, in any case!)

Overall I try to maintain close to the speed limit. According to Mapquest and the engine hour meter, I'm pretty close. However, when climbing some grades in W. Virginia, it can be considerably less, 35-45mph. The route (interstate) I take (N. to S.) is like a big roller coaster.

The car does it's best in the hills because it EOC's so well.




>

[dirtydave]

Thanks for the tips. I am collecting tools and materials everyday.

[changzuki]

The Green Grand Prix needs a boat-tail represented....

April 17th....

There must be others that agree with this...



~CrazyJerry

[ECONORAM]

Originally Posted by aerohead

Add me to the WOW list!
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One thing comes to mind,and it's because of my experience with the CRX at Bonneville.
Where the nose pan angles down is an area which is really significant.Even with the full belly pan,we still don't want to encourage any air to go under the car.
Ford used an active air dam on it's Probe-IV,which lowered on the highway to block off this flow.
I made a flexible chin spoiler from polyurethane floor pad from BIG-LOTS which deforms at curbs.It slices the airflow off from the belly pan.And without the pan,I'm still seeing some of my highest-ever mpg.
I think you'd like it if you did it.
Fabulous project! It will be hard to wait on your new mpg numbers.

I'm in the middle of repairing the truck's aero kit...but what I had done (and still plan to do) was use a small splitter at the front, and a near dead flat belly surface from there back, and some diverters in front of the tires to help control airflow under the vehicle.
Nice work Redneck. Have to see if I can find some of that foil coated foam board, and the EMT you spoke of. Not familiar with that.