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Old 08-03-2014, 11:27 AM   #181 (permalink)
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You can upload pictures on the forum.

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Old 08-03-2014, 07:29 PM   #182 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daox View Post
You can upload pictures on the forum.
Oh, I see now. I'll gather everything I've done and go through and re-upload everything. And I'll try and get some shots of the battery bracket. The batteries were a pain in the butt to get on the bracket. I literally had to assemble the pack as it sat on the bracket. So I'd rather not take it apart if I don't have to. But I'll see how it all works out.
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Old 08-11-2014, 02:04 PM   #183 (permalink)
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I've been hesitant to post pictures of the battery bracket because it's looking pretty ugly and inefficient and I'm kind of embarrassed by it.

-edit-

Here's the link to the album:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/member-tu...ery+mount.html

Keep in mind the rope is not permanent. I was using it as a safety strap so the whole thing didn't just break loose and cut or crush my hands.

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 08-11-2014 at 05:31 PM..
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Old 08-15-2014, 06:56 PM   #184 (permalink)
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No feedback? I've been stalling on the work until I get feedback.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:07 PM   #185 (permalink)
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Bump

Question about iChargers and things like that. I know the iCharger can only handle about half of my pack, but would it be possible to use two iChargers or another battery charger? Something that can balance and take care of the batteries?
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:19 PM   #186 (permalink)
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Doh, missed the rack posts. Your rack looks fine to me. I'd keep going on it.

I'm not familiar with the icharger.
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Old 08-29-2014, 06:32 PM   #187 (permalink)
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My idea was that the two bottom bolts would be replaced. I'd cut two newer 17" bolts, drill 2 holes on each side of the angled aluminum and thread the bolts through that. This way the bolt goes through one piece of angled aluminum, through the batteries, then out the other side through the other piece of angled aluminum. I'd put a series of nuts on the inside to secure the batteries from sliding around. Right now they have the ability to slide from side to side and that might be dangerous when riding and turning. I'm going to drill those this weekend. After that's all secure it should be good to wire.

Last edited by TurnNBurn; 08-29-2014 at 08:44 PM..
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Old 09-04-2014, 04:27 PM   #188 (permalink)
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I'm in the process of wiring, and I'm a lot confused.



Is that diode for the contractor required? I thought I had all the parts needed, but in another wiring diagram I was referencing before this one, there was no diode.

Also, I have the SW200 contractor as seen here:



If you notice, there's 4 sets of terminal connections. Following the diagram, it doesn't specify which ones to connect everything to (pre-charge resistor, batteries, controller). I'm mostly a mechanical person, so this is a new area for me to explore. I've never wired anything or worked much with electronics.
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Old 09-06-2014, 11:21 AM   #189 (permalink)
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The diode is important. Remember, the contactor pull coils are highly inductive, meaning that the current going through its hundreds of windings has a lot of momentum. This causes a voltage spike (and large arc) on the switch contacts powering it when the circuit it opened (contactor turned off). The diode installed will prevent this arc from occurring, allowing the inductive "momentum" to freewheel and quickly subside, saving either the contacts in a relay or transistor in a controller.

The terminals on your contactor are grouped in pairs. Two are connected together on one side of the coil, and the other two on the other side. Take your multimeter and check the resistance between them - you will find little resistance between the terminals next to each other and coil resistance between these two and the other two. The extra terminals are a perfect spot to hook your freewheel diode to!
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Old 09-06-2014, 03:47 PM   #190 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600 View Post
Take your multimeter and check the resistance between them - you will find little resistance between the terminals next to each other and coil resistance between these two and the other two. The extra terminals are a perfect spot to hook your freewheel diode to!

What's a multimeter?


KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm going to check it out and order the diodes on Amazon.

-edit-
I do see they're grouped in pairs. Referencing the picture above, the top two would be negative and the bottom two would be positive. That clears that up.

Just an update and a big question and concern. I wired up the controller to the motor and then to a temporary 24v battery pack (two little 12v batteries, 3amp each) just to test it to see if the throttle works and to mark the positive and negative of the motor. I can get the controller lit up, but with the throttle I can't get any action from the motor. Controller is lit, batteries are hooked up, but nothing from the motor.

I have B+ from the controller going to the + on the battery and + on the motor

I have B- on controller going to the negative of the battery pack.

I have a cable going from M- on the controller going to - on the motor.


Last edited by TurnNBurn; 09-12-2014 at 12:28 AM..
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