01-05-2018, 06:39 PM
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#781 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Toll roads are more of an East coast problem.
Those parts of the east coast are so density packed you can probably find what you need with out getting on the toll road.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
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01-07-2018, 07:53 PM
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#782 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
Toll roads are more of an East coast problem.
Those parts of the east coast are so density packed you can probably find what you need with out getting on the toll road.
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My point of reference would be that we have no toll roads in AR and a roof rack is about the same price as a cheap trailer from Lowes or Harbor Freight. Yakima and the like wants 400 for a RACK! And unless someone knows a better brand... frankly its a piece of **** that doesn't fit securely whatsoever. So I think a trailer would be a more peace of mind way to travel with less effort.
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"I feel like the bad decisions come into play when you trade too much of your time for money paying for things you can't really afford."
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01-07-2018, 08:22 PM
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#783 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Were things built better in the 1950s? $200 at a swap meet.
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01-07-2018, 09:01 PM
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#784 (permalink)
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It's all about Diesel
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I've noticed that Paraguayan tourists tend to be more inclined to use racks and roof boxes instead of trailers, while a handful of Argentinians still use trailers.
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01-19-2018, 06:57 PM
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#785 (permalink)
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EcoModding Lurker
Join Date: Apr 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
I put 1,350lb, 12 inch load range E radial tires on my small trailer. I had a harbor freight 8 inch wheel fail the day I got it, about a year ago.
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The RPM would probably fail the bearings eventually even if there were a quality 8" tire that would stay together at interstate speeds. 8's are only safe for around town use despite what Harbor Freight's literature will tell you...
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99% bev now
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01-19-2018, 11:30 PM
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#786 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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The only way for a roof rack to beat a trailer, would be to remove all traces of the rack when not loaded for 0 penalty when not in use,same as removing the trailer when not in use. What is the CdA penalty for a rack and kayak mount system? Probably much higher than the trailer witch only effects the Cd and not the A.
What kind of value$ do you place on your time ? Bill out the rack mount /dismount time at your hourly wage. This will give a cleaner picture of the total cost difference. The more you paddle the faster the cost of a trailer is absorbed as it can be setup for hook and book (10min from the completion of the decision to go paddle to the time you pull out the driveway for a trailer)
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95Chevy Blazer 4x4 auto 14-18mpg
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01-23-2018, 07:05 PM
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#787 (permalink)
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Eco Dabbler
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The rack is much easier to maneuver in traffic, parking, etc., but it has a cost as some of you have already said. The other hiccup is loading and unloading. It's harder to access on top of a vehicle. Also, hauling anything of size -- appliances or furniture -- become exceptionally difficult with a roof rack.
I once saw a car that put too many sheets of plywood on the rack and the roof collapsed. I'm sure that was not cheap.
On the other side, a roof rack stores in a much smaller place than a trailer. It really depends on your need, how much (and where) you'll use it.
By the way, I totally agree with the pansy nature of people these days. Backing a trailer is easy once you learn. Just take the trailer to a big field or parking lot and practice. Half an hour and you'll be an expert. Why are people so afraid?
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01-23-2018, 08:34 PM
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#788 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Concerning kayaks, the easiest thing is to throw them into an 8ft truck bet. Next easiest would be on top of the crossmembers of the built-in rack on Subarus. 1 Ratcheting strap, and you can get 3+ kayaks on top pretty easy. I believe the newer Subies have fold away crossbars to lower the aero penalty.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ByDesign
By the way, I totally agree with the pansy nature of people these days. Backing a trailer is easy once you learn. Just take the trailer to a big field or parking lot and practice. Half an hour and you'll be an expert. Why are people so afraid?
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My favorite thing is to thread my Prius and jetski down a crowded boat launch, have the ski tethered to the dock, and pull out within 2 minutes. I've seen guys in big lifted trucks spend 10 minutes just trying to get a straight run at the launch.
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01-23-2018, 09:33 PM
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#789 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79
The only way for a roof rack to beat a trailer, would be to remove all traces of the rack when not loaded for 0 penalty when not in use,same as removing the trailer when not in use.
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My roof rack stores inside the vehicle, when necessary. It cost IIRC $8. The only downside is it leaves suction cup marks on [what's left of] the paint.
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01-29-2018, 03:10 PM
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#790 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79
The only way for a roof rack to beat a trailer, would be to remove all traces of the rack when not loaded for 0 penalty when not in use,same as removing the trailer when not in use. What is the CdA penalty for a rack and kayak mount system? Probably much higher than the trailer witch only effects the Cd and not the A.
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I’ve had two cars with factory roof racks. The first was a 1991 Chevy Cavalier Wagon. It had a factory rack that included flat crossbars. Removing the crossbar was good for about 1-2 miles per gallon (going by memory here). I saw no improvement from removing the bars that run parallel to the vehicle.
The second vehicle was a 2003 Jetta Wagon TDI. It came with factory rails but no crossbar. Mounting a Yakama rack with 8 foot round crossbars and two bike mounts (no bikes) dropped highway fuel economy by 11% (I have data on this one) and was REALLY loud. After a month I started taking the rack on and off as needed. That rack was incredible useful. I carried lumber, 4x8 sheets of plywood / drywall / insulation, etc on that thing. It was funny to pull up to the loading area at Home Depot. The loaders always look shocked at what could fit into that car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gumby79
What kind of value$ do you place on your time ?
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The Yakama rack took less than 5 minutes to mount / dismount. I left it in one piece and it leaned against the wall in my garage when not in use. Set it on top, tighten 4 allen bolts, done. Removal is the reverse of assembly. Hitching up a trailer is likely slightly faster but not if you have to find a way to store the trailer vertically to save space.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ByDesign
The rack is much easier to maneuver in traffic, parking, etc., but it has a cost as some of you have already said. The other hiccup is loading and unloading. It's harder to access on top of a vehicle. Also, hauling anything of size -- appliances or furniture -- become exceptionally difficult with a roof rack.
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I never had a problem with my VW. The roof was chest high so loading wasn’t a problem. However, I never tried to put large or bulky stuff on top. Most furniture could fit inside the wagon. Refrigerator sized stuff? That is what free delivery is for.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ByDesign
On the other side, a roof rack stores in a much smaller place than a trailer. It really depends on your need, how much (and where) you'll use it.
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Very true, especially for people that live in a city. Finding a place to put a trailer is tough when the your entire lot size is 5000 to 6000 sq ft and there is no vehicle access to the backyard.
I recently purchased a 12 foot boat and it takes up ¼ of the driveway. That means my wife and I have to shuffle cars if we want to drive the Spark EV or leave her Prius on the street. I plan to add a plywood deck to the boat trailer and it will be nice to have the trailer for bulky or dirty stuff though. The boat is light so I can easily take it off the trailer and leave it on saw horses.
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