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Old 04-06-2018, 02:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Old 04-06-2018, 02:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by live4soccer7 View Post
Thanks for the pics and info everyone. I think for the time being that I'll stick with the good old vx. If I come across a manual first gen insight locally then perhaps I'll take a look at it and see.

What are some of things I would/should look for on a new one? I'm new to the hybrid arena, but am quite experienced with ICEs.
Pretty much all G1's have the same issues.

Water can leak down the passenger B pillar, and cause corrosion in a connector that powers the trunk latch button. The fix is to pull the pillar garnish off (just yank it) and clean the connector. The trunk can still be opened in the mean time with the key.

The driver and passenger door lock actuators fail. They're like $5 on RockAuto though.

The driver window switches and the contacts on the cluster for resetting your trip meter get iffy after 15+ years. The window switch is $250 from Honda but you can 3d print a replacement for ~$3. The template is on InsightCentral. The contacts in the cluster require you pull it out and replace them. A member on IC provides this service for cheap, or you can order new switches (~$5) from digikey and do it yourself.

Most develop a downshift grind in 2nd and 1st by 200k miles. The synchros don't wear out, it's just a design flaw that can be fixed if you open it up. Mine has it, I just double clutch and ignore it. A member on IC offers rebuilt ones with the design flaw corrected for $800, and they're so light you can probably lift it in place from under the car without aid.

The rear engine mount is very soft to absorb the vibrations of the 3 cylinder, and they usually break before 200k miles. There are no third party rear engine mounts, and they're about $80 if I remember. The good news is that it just gets more vibraty if you don't fix it, and you only have to do it once in the life of the car.

The ground straps to the engine and transmission usually break - after the rear engine mount does.

The EGR passages need to be cleaned every 150k or so miles, as they gum up. They're pretty accessible on the front of the engine though. I did this in about an hour and a half; the hardest part was scraping the scrap out of the EGR plate.

Mechanically, the engines last practically forever. I've heard of a very few people breaking camshafts when abusing them, but there are more examples over 400k miles without a rebuild, and most don't burn any oil even with crazy miles. If you find one that burns oil, I'd pass on it.

The axles seem to last really well, as well as transmission bearings, probably because of the lower power of the car, but these still fail eventually like in any other vehicle. The clutches and brakes last longer than you'd expect too - many are still on their factory pads after 15+ years. Most everything is aluminum, which means no rust to deal with.

The hybrid batteries in these can reasonably last 10-12 years, longer if you baby them, but they're the real Achilles heel of the car. Most G1s had their batteries replaced under warranty before the 10 year mark, meaning some 2006's could have batteries as young as 2 years old at this point. Some earlier Insights are getting to the end of their second battery's lifespan. You can tell if the battery is weak because it won't assist very long, and when you're rough on it, the battery gauge may "recalibrate" - that is, you'll see it jump up or down quickly. The car will continue to drive even with a fully dead battery, but you get a CEL and it won't pass inspection, and it's a dog to drive without assist. The bright side is that there are some dedicated people on IC working on a cheaper drop-in lithium replacement, but it's not ready yet.

EDIT: The Insight is a hybrid, but the hybrid system is really a bolt-on, and the car works fine without it. Aside from the battery eventually needing replacement (or the car becomes slow), you can treat it like any other gasoline car.

Last edited by Ecky; 04-06-2018 at 02:58 PM..
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Old 12-19-2018, 02:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just test drove one. It is better on the freeway than the vx and it is also a fair bit quieter. I have owned my vx for 8 years now. I'm seriously considering getting the insight and selling the vx. I'll be torn about getting rid of the vx though. It is a great car.
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Old 12-19-2018, 03:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Lots of people picking up Insights lately. Join the club!

I'm in the process of putting a 220HP K-series motor in mine, and still expect to beat VX economy numbers.
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Old 12-19-2018, 04:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Why the swap, other than power?


As far as the major ($$ wise) issues with them I understand they are the following.

Battery Pack $1-2K to replace (should last 10-12 yrs)
Transmission grind in 1st and 2nd around 150k

Everything else seems pretty solid and or follow under normal car maintenance stuff.

Cats were mentioned and shocks/struts. Something about the driver side window switch getting brittle and the rear electric latch release as well. None that seem like to big of a deal.

I just don't want to be buying a car that'll turn in to a maintenance nightmare. My vx is little to no maintenance and I'm not aware of any major flaws it has and I've been driving it for 8 yrs.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:21 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by live4soccer7 View Post
Why the swap, other than power?


As far as the major ($$ wise) issues with them I understand they are the following.

Battery Pack $1-2K to replace (should last 10-12 yrs)
Transmission grind in 1st and 2nd around 150k

Everything else seems pretty solid and or follow under normal car maintenance stuff.

Cats were mentioned and shocks/struts. Something about the driver side window switch getting brittle and the rear electric latch release as well. None that seem like to big of a deal.

I just don't want to be buying a car that'll turn in to a maintenance nightmare. My vx is little to no maintenance and I'm not aware of any major flaws it has and I've been driving it for 8 yrs.
Honestly the justification was pretty weak. Here's my logic:

With auto-stop working, most times I downshifted into 1st while still rolling it was a nasty grind, and there was no easy way around it because you can't rev match while the engine is off. I could drop it in 5th and then double clutch into 1st, but inevitably I was grinding occasionally in traffic. I could also disable auto-stop, but that was a depressing thought. I was prepared to pay to fix my downshift grind properly so I didn't eventually kill my gears and synchros. I went so far as to place an order for a rebuilt transmission with Scott (nation's best Insight mechanic) out of California.

He was weeks late getting the transmission ready. Over that time I looked at some other things I should do preventatively. Since shop time to get the car on a lift and remove the transmission is somewhat expensive, I figured I'd do the clutch which was original but still working well at 245k. And while I was at it, maybe the bearings in that area. And how about the seals too, since if they started leaking later it wouldn't be worth the effort to fix. The IMA motor needs to come off of the engine to get to the main shaft seal, and sometimes uncareful mechanics damage the equivalents to Hall sensors which the Insight uses, and then you have no more IMA, so I was concerned about that. Taking into account shipping back and forth for the gearbox and all of the other little things I wanted, I was looking at closer to $3,000 to "make it right".

The car was running great at ~235k. Engine burns no oil, runs... well, as smooth as a 3 cylinder ever runs. Transmission was fine except for the downshift grind. Battery was healthy.

But then there's the battery.

Aftermarket batteries do NOT last 10-12 years. The Japanese NiMH cells are all gone at this point. All cells come from China now, and evidence shows you're really lucky to get 5 years out of a pack. Many buyers from Bumblebee and others are getting the extended warranties and actually needing to use them. I don't see a $2,000 battery every 3-4 years as being sustainable when my OEM Honda battery did eventually fail.

My original plan was to do a lithium swap when my battery inevitably went, probably using a fraction of a pack from an EV and some homebrew electronics to fool the car's computer. There's a great team of minds over on Insight Central working on this but they're still nowhere near a drop-in replacement more than 3 years into the project. Plus, after some research I realized that in my climate, the first time I use assist when it's subzero, a small lithium pack is toast because lithium batteries do not survive high current charging below freezing.

Many don't get replacement packs because they're expensive and not reliable. A lot of high mileage Insights are driven with batteries removed. The cars drive fine without them and otherwise run like clockwork, but they're closer to 16 seconds to 60 than the 10 seconds you'd get with a working IMA. My personal opinion, it's a substantially less interesting and engaging car to drive with the hybrid system disabled, even if it's still reliable cheap transportation.

That said, $3,000 + $2,000 isn't too bad to put into a car which has otherwise been utterly reliable, in order to prevent future transmission damage and get rid of an annoyance while driving, and to keep the sweet (but unnecessary) IMA system working. I'd be set for another several hundred thousand miles of blissful ultimate fuel economy.

However, a K series swap on the cheap could approach that price, perhaps even with a fraction of the miles on the drivetrain. On top of that, I was able to sell my still-healthy battery for a significant chunk of change ($800 I think?), which further subsidizes it. So, it was not difficulty to rationalize having a zero mile engine and transmission, no IMA battery to worry about, and a car that accelerates literally 4x faster while still delivering phenomenal economy, for nearly the same price.

Now, my K swap is definitely going to exceed that budget, probably by close to 5x, but that's because I had a long wishlist of "wow wouldn't it be cool to have..." 's. Things like a limited slip differential for better snow traction, a linear 6 speed gearbox made of lightweight magnesium with a shorter 1st and longer 6th than the Insight's already ridiculously tall 5th gear. Weight reduction sufficient to make the car lighter than stock. Increased cargo room in the rear - close to double, and large enough that I could probably move a refrigerator in a pinch. 0-60 in <4 seconds. An engine and transmission with effectively zero miles. Aftermarket engine management I can play with. And, if all goes as planned, still better fuel economy than a Prius.

Ultimately though, it's because I like to tinker, I can afford it, and I'll still have a car that uses less fuel than any other gasoline car (sans a stock Insight) on the road.

Would I recommend an Insight to someone? Heck yes, but be prepared to eventually ditch the battery or pony up for a replacement every few years. It's definitely the Achilles heel of the car.

EDIT: There was, of course, nothing to stop me from just driving the car until the wheels fell off.

Last edited by Ecky; 12-19-2018 at 06:48 PM..
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:49 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I just looked at bumblebee and it seems you are forced to buy the 3 year warranty. That puts it at $1400 + about $125 for shipping.

Is this really the cheapest for getting new batteries for this thing? I understand the grid charger to help keep them going a little longer. That seems a bit much for something you'll have to do every 4-5 years with aftermarket batteries. The batteries in the one I'm looking at were replaced by Honda in 2014.

I've got to let the guy know if I'm buying tonight or not. Any input/insight would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-19-2018, 06:53 PM   #18 (permalink)
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How many miles?

I wouldn't worry about the battery, honestly. It'll go someday, but replaced by Honda in 2014 you might have another 6-8 years of solid use out of it. If it were a few years older, it would be a few years sooner. There really are no good alternatives, they're expensive and the ones that exist today are of lousy quality. When the time comes you can pony up for a new one with Chinese cells, bypass and run without it, or try your hand at something custom with another chemistry.

For what it's worth I've been driving without a battery for the last 3-4 months and it's "fine".

Last edited by Ecky; 12-19-2018 at 07:00 PM..
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Old 12-19-2018, 07:41 PM   #19 (permalink)
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100k miles with logs from day 1. There isn't a better candidate for buying one. If I get one this is the one. I won't come across another one like this. It's not like I NEED to sell my car and get this. It's just a little step up. It drives better on the freeway and is quieter than the vx. Gah..... The decision is very hard.
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Old 12-19-2018, 07:42 PM   #20 (permalink)
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100k miles? If it's not ludicrously expensive, my vote is "yes".

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