10-24-2018, 11:05 AM
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#81 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: NewMexico (USA)
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I drive my leaf around 1,000 miles per month and it increases the power bill but around $25.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-24-2018, 11:07 AM
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#82 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
Join Date: May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesqf
So you buy an electric car. Or a plug-in hybrid. That should take care of the not using enough electricity problem :-)
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If you need one. I would say a heat pump is a better choice if you are looking for a large electrical load. My ductless heat pump cost less than a replacement gas furnace. Both is always an option!
Either way net metering is necessary because both a car and heat pump use the majority of power at night when the solar array isn't producing power.
I charge my EV at work because free is still the best price. The chargers are on a grid-tied solar system.
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10-24-2018, 12:37 PM
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#83 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Location: Oregon
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I still might go solar here, but I'll be sourcing all of the stuff and installing it myself for the learning opportunity. I'm actually leaning more towards wind though. I did the math on a micro-hydro system at my parents and it wouldn't work out well. I can generate about 65 watts continuous, or about $57 in electricity per year.
I'm looking at buying a house in Silverton, but the market is at all time highs despite an interest rate that has been moving up. My plan is to always keep the houses I buy and rent them out.
... I read an interesting article about the advantage of not putting 20% down on a house to avoid PMI. It basically gave the opportunity cost argument.
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10-24-2018, 02:33 PM
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#84 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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Location: NewMexico (USA)
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I'm going to do solar power.
I think I got everything ironed out with the coop and I'm going to try and get a permit for the second meter box install today.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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10-24-2018, 05:35 PM
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#85 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSH
Either way net metering is necessary because both a car and heat pump use the majority of power at night when the solar array isn't producing power.
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Which one is net metering?
- All your generated electricity goes to the grid at 1.6 cents per kw-h and you buy it back at 12 cents per kw-h
- You use the grid as a big battery, pump in your excess kw-h and they keep track. You take them back out at night and when you exceed the 'battery' value you pay the difference
I know one is a lot easier to justify the investment!
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In THEORY there is no difference between Theory and Practice
In PRACTICE there IS!
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10-24-2018, 06:08 PM
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#86 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Net metering - Meter runs forwards when the household consumes electricity from the grid, and runs backwards when it supplies to the grid.
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10-24-2018, 06:57 PM
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#87 (permalink)
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AKA - Jason
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
I still might go solar here, but I'll be sourcing all of the stuff and installing it myself for the learning opportunity. I'm actually leaning more towards wind though. I did the math on a micro-hydro system at my parents and it wouldn't work out well. I can generate about 65 watts continuous, or about $57 in electricity per year.
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I’ll do the same. I started small by adding PV to my shed by taking apart a solar floodlight I bought for $30 and repurposing the parts. 2 months ago stepped it up a notch and added a 200W of PV to my campervan. The campervan system uses all the same components and connectors as a home system and the installation is really easy. My home solar quotes averaged about $7K for labor to do the installation. I asked the rep how long it would take and he said the install would take 6-8 hours. That is quite the hourly rate! I’ll pay an electrician to connect the box but that is about it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
I'm looking at buying a house in Silverton, but the market is at all time highs despite an interest rate that has been moving up. My plan is to always keep the houses I buy and rent them out.
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That is a nice area. We were down that way 2 weeks ago to try out the Benedictine Brewery and Taproom that just opened. The market will drop in the next recession when people can’t roll over their ARMs anymore. That is why my wife and I are saving not buying. As of today we are officially in a market correction….
Quote:
Originally Posted by redpoint5
... I read an interesting article about the advantage of not putting 20% down on a house to avoid PMI. It basically gave the opportunity cost argument.
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I’m very familiar with the argument. It is all about using other people’s money to maximize return. Personally I like to use my own money, avoid debt, and minimize risk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by thingstodo
Which one is net metering?
- All your generated electricity goes to the grid at 1.6 cents per kw-h and you buy it back at 12 cents per kw-h
- You use the grid as a big battery, pump in your excess kw-h and they keep track. You take them back out at night and when you exceed the 'battery' value you pay the difference
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Those are both examples of net metering. One at a horrible exchange rate and one at a fair rate. Net metering laws vary from state to state. For example:
In Oregon retail customers with flat rating billing get one-for-one credit / debit. You can bank extra credits month over month but in March it zeros out and any unused credits go to Oregon’s low income electricity fund.
Prior it my move to Oregon I lived in Alabama for 7 years. Alabama has no net metering laws so the utility pays you nothing for extra electricity produced and feed into their grid. The meter only goes one way.
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10-24-2018, 07:16 PM
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#88 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Net metering is just essentially running forward or back. This is a big loss for the utility since they are paying the customer at a rate which includes all of the line fees and taxes that they pay when the meter is running forward. But many states have forced the utility to take the loss as a means of stimulating the uptake of solar. Smart metering or two way demand metering would pay the consumer only for the excess electricity according to the spot price in effect at the time. This requires an internet connected meter which very few areas are using.
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10-24-2018, 07:16 PM
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#89 (permalink)
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Human Environmentalist
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Currently thinking I should buy a modest house that might need some work, at a comparatively low price just to move into something. Then 2 years later, or however long it takes for the next recession, buy/build the permanent house. Rent out the modest house when we move.
I put 20% down when I bought my house in the PDX area in 2010. Might not put that much down next time, although I can.
How was Benedictine Brewery and Taproom? I've been meaning to head up to Mt. Angel to check it out, but 5 month old is slowing me down.
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10-24-2018, 07:49 PM
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#90 (permalink)
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...beats walking...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oil pan 4
I drive my leaf around 1,000 miles per month and it increases the power bill but around $25.
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And, unlike ICE vehicles, the power meter on your house does NOT require periodic service or maintenance (wink, wink)!!
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