Coolant level controlled fan or shutters

[user removed]

Lots of cars already have a low coolant warning sensor, in many cases it is a float in the overflow bottle.
Also used to indicate low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder reservoir.

I actually thought this was a great idea but after reading the responses here you would think I am either an idiot or a thief.

Maybe it's the other way around. Maybe some here are regularly adding coolant to their systems like their car was powered by a steam engine, instead of fixing the problem.

In 40,000 miles I have never added coolant to my wifes car or to my car, or even to my17 year old truck.

Any sensor configuration would also be capable of informing the operator of any initial low coolant situation DUH! That's not even a legitimate concern unless you operate a vehicle that is constantly loosing coolant. I can smell blown head gaskets following cars down the road.

[Daox]

Originally Posted by yoyoyoda

You stole my idea you *******!!!

http://ecomodder.com/forum/414485-post31.html
http://ecomodder.com/forum/414487-post33.html

You're posting on a web forum that is open for the world to see. Unless you have a patent, anything you post here is up for grabs. No offense, but get over it. We are here to help each other save fuel, not hoard ideas. If you don't want people using 'your ideas', keep them to yourself and get a patent.

[user removed]

Before the accuser ever posted on this forum , in fact years ago I posted about methods of regulating the radiator outflow coolant temperature. This temperature can change byas much as 100 degrees depending on ambient temperature.

The radiator is sized for maximum capacity, hot summer temps, AC on, climbing an8% grade for say ten miles with maximum passenger load.

When its freezing outside and especially at lower temperatures with good airflow over the radiator the radiator capacity is probably 3 times what is needed. In some especially cold places you would need only the heater core to keep the engine cool.

After blocking the lower radiator in my Fiesta, the mileage increase was equal to driving in ambient temperatures 40 degrees warmer than were present. The foam pipe insulation I used cost 92 cents each and it took 3 with about 40% waste, probably could have used 2 if I wanted splices. All it took was vertical slits to fit over the vertical supports on the otherwise horizontal grille louvres.

That was two months ago at least a month before the person who is screaming thief ever made a single post on this forum at least under their present user name.

The coolant recovery bottle level was an inspiration I think. I guess someone could spend months doing a patent search including the complete internet to see if their was someone who came up with this idea previously. I posted it here knowing full well it eliminated any possibility of a patent being issued.

I think and the evidence supports this thinking, that if you can control the temperature of the coolant exiting the radiator you could see a significant gain in mileage, probably 5% or more depending on how cold it is outside.

I was looking at the pipe insulation in my Fiesta grille and another inspiration came to me. Use a bicycle tube instead of the pipe insulation and make them inflatable to control the amount of air flow you want to block.

Been a member here for 4 years now or close I have developed, with or without other imputs, a practical inexpensive means of controlling the outflow exit temperature.

I do not remember reading any post about using bicycle tubes or using the level of recovery bottle coolant to control the AVERAGE temperature of the cooling system, which resolves the issue with coolant exit temperature.

It would not surprize me a bit that some other person or manufacturer has not thought of this before me, maybe they even got a patent on it, but as far as me stealing this idea from anyone here DAOX has it right. Post it here with out prior protection and if it is a good idea shouldn't you expect it to be borrowed (stolen in a wackadoodles mind).

Read my slow progress thread. Christ was considerate enough to ask if he could copy my design, to which I replied feel free to copy anything I post here, but thanks for asking.

regards
Mech

[RedDevil]

I'm blocking my grills for about 90% now, what I see its the temperature rises when driving slow or with the wind rather than fast or against the wind.

Way before the engine temp gets too hot the intake air temp rises dramatically.
I see FE suffer if it rises above 40°C, but cars with no EGR can likely take more heat and still do good.

If I would make my grill block operable I'd switch it by the intake air temp.
EDIT On second thought, then I'd better switch on a fan to draw cool air in to the intake from right behind the grill...

[user removed]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...emps-2785.html

6 year old post

[user removed]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...n-16207-5.html

and another but 2012.

[user removed]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-21227-2.html

and another. Just use the search function under "radiator outlet temperature".

[WD40]

Old Mechanic no worries .. either someone needs a pill or forgot to take it

[2000mc]

Originally Posted by Old Mechanic

Lots of cars already have a low coolant warning sensor, in many cases it is a float in the overflow bottle.
Also used to indicate low brake fluid levels in the master cylinder reservoir.

I actually thought this was a great idea but after reading the responses here you would think I am either an idiot or a thief.

Maybe it's the other way around. Maybe some here are regularly adding coolant to their systems like their car was powered by a steam engine, instead of fixing the problem.

In 40,000 miles I have never added coolant to my wifes car or to my car, or even to my17 year old truck.

Any sensor configuration would also be capable of informing the operator of any initial low coolant situation DUH! That's not even a legitimate concern unless you operate a vehicle that is constantly loosing coolant. I can smell blown head gaskets following cars down the road.

maybe some here are repairing their vehicle too regularly...if thats a thing...in the last 40k mi i guess i just havent had as good of luck, replaced a water pump a couple yrs ago, radiator about a yr ago, then 6mo or so after the radiator the petcock on the radiator inexplicably decided to back it self out a bit and start leaking. 2 of the 3 times i noticed coolant on the ground before the low coolant light was tripped (another benefit of backing into your parking spots).
the float system would work great under normal conditions, just would need some sort of fail safe. (open grill at some high temp threshold regardless of coolant level)
the float for the grill blocking system seems that it would be set higher than the low coolant sensor, leaving a narrow zone where when you start to lose coolant, but before the low coolant light was on, where the grill would remain closed.

[RobertISaar]

depending on the vehicle, the low coolant level switch is sometimes mounted in the radiator..... it doesn't come on until the reservoir is completely empty and a couple of inches of coolant in the radiator don't exist.