05-31-2012, 10:03 PM
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#41 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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05-31-2012, 10:16 PM
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#42 (permalink)
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Drive less save more
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My Evry mod ,vp37 type diesel tuning box, Fools the fuel pump into thinking the fuel is colder so more fuel is pumped, causing increased power by the warmer then reported diesel. Makes sense now to me also that warm fuel would use less fuel, unless i have understood the Evry mod wrong, The Evry mod box really gives my car a noticeable boost.
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06-01-2012, 10:36 PM
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#43 (permalink)
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Corporate imperialist
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I turned up the fuel rate on my mechanical injector pump, fully expecting a mpg loss.
But it stayed the same maybe even incresed a tiny bit.
Being able to stay in over drive going over minor hills helped FE. Originally any incline would cause the suburban to shift out of over drive to maintain speed.
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1984 chevy suburban, custom made 6.5L diesel turbocharged with a Garrett T76 and Holset HE351VE, 22:1 compression 13psi of intercooled boost.
1989 firebird mostly stock. Aside from the 6-speed manual trans, corvette gen 5 front brakes, 1LE drive shaft, 4th Gen disc brake fbody rear end.
2011 leaf SL, white, portable 240v CHAdeMO, trailer hitch, new batt as of 2014.
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06-01-2012, 11:09 PM
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#44 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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On any of the engines I deal with (Cummins/Paccar/Caterpillar), intake heaters are only for cold startup. Extra heat for DPF is done with engine timing and closing the VGT for more back pressure, or with an flame thrower after the turbo on Caterpillars, never with increased intake heat. OEM priority is to keep the intake air as cool as possible to avoid excessive NOx production (I assume).
A bit of a side note. Unplugging the intake manifold temp sensor and installing a resistor to make the ECM think it's cold advances the timing on some engines and does wonders for mileage. I repeat: SOME engines. Cat engines: 100 ohms = indicated 7F. Cummins I'm not sure, but I could easily find out.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mechman600 For This Useful Post:
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06-02-2012, 04:02 AM
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#45 (permalink)
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Drive less save more
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My Evry mod style tuning box has a potentiometer so the ohms are adjustable, other vw owners have success with 1000kohm resistor some fit a 500 ohm or less with a cost of smoky acceleration and a decrease in fuel mileage.
They go between the fuel pump and ecu.
I like the sound of the intake temp sensor mod, A person could fine tune/time the motor with slightly different ohm resistors.
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06-02-2012, 04:34 PM
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#46 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600
A bit of a side note. Unplugging the intake manifold temp sensor and installing a resistor to make the ECM think it's cold advances the timing on some engines and does wonders for mileage. I repeat: SOME engines. Cat engines: 100 ohms = indicated 7F. Cummins I'm not sure, but I could easily find out.
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I can believe this. It's a cold start up feature. During cold startup (or extremely cold conditions) the ignition delay increases, thus the injection timing is advaced to prevent the combustion from occuring too late in the cycle. In extreme cases this late combustion can cause white smoke or misfire. The ECM is using the IMT sesnor to detect this cold condition.
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Diesel Dave
My version of energy storage is called "momentum".
My version of regenerative braking is called "bump starting".
1 Year Avg (Every Mile Traveled) = 47.8 mpg
BEST TANK: 2,009.6 mi on 35 gal (57.42 mpg): http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...5-a-26259.html
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06-02-2012, 06:11 PM
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#47 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600
On any of the engines I deal with (Cummins/Paccar/Caterpillar), intake heaters are only for cold startup. Extra heat for DPF is done with engine timing (...) never with increased intake heat.
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On my PSA / FoMoCo 1.6L Diesel, the reported intake temperature (on a ScanGauge) will increase from it's normal 5-10 °C over ambient, to an actual 50-60 °C during DPF regeneration, so it's obviously a manufacturer's choice to do so.
I'm not too sure if it's a good choice though ...
Coolant temperature also increases a few °C during regeneration.
With 28-30 °C outside temps, I've recently seen coolant temps up to 95 °C
Normally it's only 79-83 °C , even during regen.
Thermostat is 81 °C.
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06-03-2012, 09:52 PM
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#48 (permalink)
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Banned
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mechman600
On any of the engines I deal with (Cummins/Paccar/Caterpillar), intake heaters are only for cold startup. Extra heat for DPF is done with engine timing and closing the VGT for more back pressure, or with an flame thrower after the turbo on Caterpillars, never with increased intake heat. OEM priority is to keep the intake air as cool as possible to avoid excessive NOx production (I assume).
A bit of a side note. Unplugging the intake manifold temp sensor and installing a resistor to make the ECM think it's cold advances the timing on some engines and does wonders for mileage. I repeat: SOME engines. Cat engines: 100 ohms = indicated 7F. Cummins I'm not sure, but I could easily find out.
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I'd be curious to know about Cummins, specifically the one in the pickup. There is a timing mod online that goes about this (mechanical adjust), but it'd be interestin' to know what could be done electrically.
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06-04-2012, 12:48 AM
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#49 (permalink)
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Master EcoModder
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A mechanical adjustment depends on the year. 12 valve B5.9s: yes. Big difference. 24V electronic ISBs: no point. The timing is electronically controlled in the VP44 injection pump. Adjusting the mechanical timing of the pump won't have much of an effect. I know some aftermarket tuners only alter fuel metering while others alter both metering and timing. For economy you would obviously want the latter. I would go with a tuner before tinkering with various resistors in place of sensors with the Dodge. On the other hand, resistors are really really cheap.
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06-07-2012, 04:55 PM
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#50 (permalink)
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Banned
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The really cheap part was the interest. The most popular (best performing) tuner is $600. Hardly worth it for just a timing bump.
I'lll probably go with the ROKKTECH Sensor mod (relatively cheap) to keep the timing slightly advanced.
EFILive promises that my year/model of truck/engine will be available for their in-depth, comprehensive abilities in the near future. That is, if someone can be found to write a longest-lived, highest economy engine tune.
Thanks for the reply.
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