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Old 04-11-2020, 01:45 PM   #21 (permalink)
106 diesel enthusiast
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Scotland
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Peamobile - '96 Peugeot 106 XND
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I started looking at ways to do my car months ago, and found little information.

Was about to do some serious number crunching when I came by this thread

106 friend!!!

Any chance, you could show us all how you constructed the tail? Did you keep the standard hatch and cut the inside out to leave a frame to attach the sheet metal too - giving you a hinge and a latch to hold it? I was going to do my tail floor a bit steeper providing I can keep the flow from underneath attached.

Are your wheels discs just held in place by a screw in the centre, the standard hub cap is beneath this?

I'm using the 1.5 Diesel engine in mine. It manages 55mpg (real) 45mpg (US) and I give it a hard time. The best I ever got from it was 84mpg imp but I've only ever managed that once.

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Old 05-28-2020, 08:37 AM   #22 (permalink)
EcoModding Apprentice
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Adelaide, Australia
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F Truck - '77 Ford F100 2x4, single cab, lwb
90 day: 8.75 mpg (US)

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90 day: 21.35 mpg (US)

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This is amazing! The craftsmanship on the modifications is wonderful, keep up the great work!
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(Posted in 2020) 2009 Prius Off Road project: https://ecomodder.com/forum/showthre...ide-38366.html

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Old 11-19-2020, 05:20 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Netherlands
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So, finally an update on the Peugeot 106.

We wanted to have all the mods complete before end of MOT, but the first Corona-wave made us miss that deadline. Therefor we had to MOT the car. Although we thought we didn't do anything illigal (besides the camera mirrors, but we can replace those in a few minutes), we were still a bit worried. In the end, we only had to put some rubber on the sharp edges of the aluminum aero tail. So now the car is road legal for another year.

But we weren't satisfied with the results we were getting. We could only achieve around 1 liter per 25 km (+/- 59 MPG), whatever we tried. But we've found the solution!

We originally chose for a late model 106 because of multipoint injection, so we could make our own cylinder shutdown. We never thought of it again because of the misconception that it would be to complex. For around 30 bucks, we bought some connectors, wires and a switch, so we can interrupt the positive wires going to the injectors of cylinders 1 and 4. At idle, we can also switch them back, but at speed they won't switch back on. Something with the ECU probably, because when we turn the key and switch it back on, they will work. So we're probably going to make a switch to cut off the power of the ecu while coasting as well.

More importantly, the car drives amazingly well on only two cilinders. It's not powerfull enough to have proper acceleration, but it's more then sufficient to retain a cruising speed of 45-50 mph. And fuel economy was improved massively, we're now getting 1 liter per 35 km (82 MPG) and we think we can do even better on a route with less height differences. We think we might be able to push it to 1 l/40km (94 MPG) with the camera's mirrors on, and a flat and boring route with a cruising speed of around 45 mph.





Also note the self fabricated windscreen wipers with aero blades that sit much lower the the original ones, barely obstructing the wind flow anymore. (we've ditched the spring, so you can only replace wipers by taking the entire wiper arm off).

Last edited by Dizono; 11-19-2020 at 05:42 AM..
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Old 11-19-2020, 05:33 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MHR1294 View Post
Any chance, you could show us all how you constructed the tail? Did you keep the standard hatch and cut the inside out to leave a frame to attach the sheet metal too - giving you a hinge and a latch to hold it? I was going to do my tail floor a bit steeper providing I can keep the flow from underneath attached.
We made a steel frame welded to the original tail gate of the car:





We made cuts in the steel bars every 5 to 10 cm's with a grinder and then welded them back together to get the desired curve. We then made paper templates of the aluminium panels, that we formed on the car using metal working hamers and spanners:



So we nailed the panels to the frame while holding them tensioned and that worked surprisingly well. It turned out better the we expected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MHR1294 View Post
Are your wheels discs just held in place by a screw in the centre, the standard hub cap is beneath this?
We welded a bracket to the original steelies:



The we made a hole with thread in the brackets, to mount the aluminum wheel covers with a single bolt.

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