Ecoscort - 98 Ford Escort ZX2 ecomodding thread

[BabyDiesel]

Originally Posted by hardline

Havent topped 2500 RPM in months? I should take you for a drive in my ZX2. 8200 RPM redline, yessir.

That would be awesome! I did get the car up to roughly 2800 rpm today. I got up to 75 mph on the highway trying to burn some of my carbon out

Originally Posted by pgfpro

100 kilopascal = 14.503773773 psi

This way you don't use two measurements (inch/hg verses psi) just one

I hear ya!

So 100 kpa is equal to 1 atmosphere roughly, at sea level. Going from the previous post about making power in lean burn, you can make the same power running 22:1 AFRs @ just over the atmospheric pressure, slightly less than 1 psi, as you can in running in vacuum @ 14.7:1 AFRs. And with these benefits -

You will also have a 6.4% decrease in fuel consumption and a 28% decrease in combustion temperature. Plus a 4% increase at P3 compression while maintaining the same P4 pressure.

Incredible!

I may have found a turbo - 240sx Oem Nissan S14 SR T28 ballbearing turbo

It is a turbo off of a Nissan 240sx, comes with the t28 ball bearing turbo, which is in excellent condition, oem manifold, oem turbo elbow, intake inlet, and steel braided oil and coolant lines. $250.

Maybe good, maybe no? Here are the specs. It could be either of these.

S14 Zenki (1993-96) Black-Top T28:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 250 - 260 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Journal Bering


S14 Kouki (1996-98) Black-Top T28:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 255 - 265 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Ball Bearing

From what I understand about turbos (which is very little), this is quite a small turbo. It is smaller than the FP Red you mentioned earlier in the thread. Does that mean it will make boost easier and I should go with one slightly bigger?

[hardline]

That turbo would be ideal for a daily driver that size, not sure though on trying to squeeze mileage out of it. A .64 a/r turbine housing is fairly restrictive.

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by BabyDiesel

That would be awesome! I did get the car up to roughly 2800 rpm today. I got up to 75 mph on the highway trying to burn some of my carbon out



I hear ya!

So 100 kpa is equal to 1 atmosphere roughly, at sea level. Going from the previous post about making power in lean burn, you can make the same power running 22:1 AFRs @ just over the atmospheric pressure, slightly less than 1 psi, as you can in running in vacuum @ 14.7:1 AFRs. And with these benefits -

Incredible!

I may have found a turbo - 240sx Oem Nissan S14 SR T28 ballbearing turbo

It is a turbo off of a Nissan 240sx, comes with the t28 ball bearing turbo, which is in excellent condition, oem manifold, oem turbo elbow, intake inlet, and steel braided oil and coolant lines. $250.

Maybe good, maybe no? Here are the specs. It could be either of these.

S14 Zenki (1993-96) Black-Top T28:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 250 - 260 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Journal Bering


S14 Kouki (1996-98) Black-Top T28:
Compressor: T-28, 60 trim 60 mm 0.60 A/R BCI-1 compressor in T-04B housing
Turbine: T-25, 62 trim 53.8mm 0.64 A/R turbine housing.
Stock Boost: 7 psi
Safe Boost: > 13-15 psi After that The Turbo is past it's efficiency
Max Boost: 17 psi
HP Ratings: 255 - 265 RWHP
Type of Bearings: Ball Bearing

From what I understand about turbos (which is very little), this is quite a small turbo. It is smaller than the FP Red you mentioned earlier in the thread. Does that mean it will make boost easier and I should go with one slightly bigger?

I think that would be a very good choice. Also keep in mind on my Talon my other small turbo or high pressure turbo is a
13g TD04-13G-5cm2
40mm IND comp/50mm EXD comp
41mm EXD turbine/47mm IND turbine

In lean burn you will have a time delay because it takes some time for the heat to stack up at the turbine.

[BabyDiesel]

Originally Posted by Xist

Aerodynamic modifications:
Both side mirrors?
Grill block
Air dam
Belly pan
Wheel covers
Wheel Skirts

Six users posted results for deleting side mirrors, average: 2.58 x 2 = 5.08%
Grill blocks averaging 2.79%
The average air dam listed at yielded a 3.775% improvement.
Belly pan: 3.48%
Wheel covers: 3.16%
Rear skirts: 2.88%

I do not know if air dams and belly pans yield as great an improvement together as used separately, as well as wheel covers and rear skirts.

Two of the rear skirts were on trucks and both commented that they covered a much larger gap than on a passenger car.

However, multiplying those six modifications suggests a 23.1% improvement.

When you removed the seats, upholstery, air conditioning, and power steering, you stated that you removed 115 pounds from a car that you previously wrote was 2300 lbs: 5%.

Didn't you say that you already reduced the weight by two hundred pounds? That would total 12.6% less mass.

The rule of thumb given on here is that for every 2% improvement in aerodynamics or mass, you increase your fuel economy by one percent, so between those two, in theory you increased your fuel economy 18.6%, taking you from 25 to 29.6 MPG. The wiki suggests that increasing tire pressure is good for another percent.

Didn't you also cover your windshield wipers and install side skirts? One user reported 1.5% and 1% respectively for those.

I see 30.69 MPG.



Indeed!

I did not see all of your modifications in your garage. It currently says that you have Mazda tires. Didn't you replace those with spares? What do you have now?

Xist! I haven't forgotten about you, just had a rather rough evening yesterday. As I was looking over your post, I found some discrepancies that need to be addressed.

I have lowered my Cd by 18.485% (0.33 down to 0.269, last tested in May 2015), which should in turn give me a 9.24% increase in mpg. This is a far cry from the 23.1% you suggested! It makes me wonder if Ford "fudged" the Cd numbers to be better than they reported?

You got my weight wrong the starting weight is 2478 pounds for an auto ZX2. 2300 is the weight I want to attain when I am in the car driving, so I want the car to weigh 2125 pounds by itself. My 115 pound weight reduction would equate to a 4.64% drop in overall weight.

I have taken the wiper cover off and the side skirts till I can make better versions. So we have to lose those 2.5%

Over all, it looks like a 11.56% increase in fuel economy, or from 25 mpg to 27.89 mpg. Adding in the extra percentage for tire pressure brings this number up to a measly 28.14 mpg!

So how is the results much better than the math? We have the wrong starting point! I came to Ecomodder averaging nearly 35 mpg/40% over EPA! So we must use this as our starting point.

Now using the 11.56%/18.6%, the math says that I should have gone from 35 mpg to 39.046/41.51 respectively. This is interesting as it nearly perfectly matches my 2nd and 3rd tanks. I did not have hardly any mods at this time though, other than a partial grill block, lawn edging air dam, increased tire pressure and the ScanGauge.

Adjust the nut FTW!

My full mod list can be found here. I did switch to 14x4 space saver wheels earlier this year. They were quite heavy compared to the Mazda MX3 wheels (17 vs. 12) and they increased my rolling resistance, so I switched back to the MX3 wheels with coroplast covers. They are working beautifully, I just need to wrap them with some RE92s and it will be perfect then

[BabyDiesel]

Originally Posted by hardline

That turbo would be ideal for a daily driver that size, not sure though on trying to squeeze mileage out of it. A .64 a/r turbine housing is fairly restrictive.

A DD turbo is what I am looking for. It is small and restrictive, but you have to remember that I am going to be running extremely lean AFRs with a Atkinson 3.5 valve setup, turning about 2000 rpm and needing only 3-5 horsepower during cruise due to extensive aero mods. The site says it is good for up too 250 ponies max @ 15 psi, but I'll adjust the wastegate to 5-7 psi to save my internals. I hope for 175 HPR max.

Originally Posted by pgfpro

I think that would be a very good choice. Also keep in mind on my Talon my other small turbo or high pressure turbo is a
13g TD04-13G-5cm2
40mm IND comp/50mm EXD comp
41mm EXD turbine/47mm IND turbine

In lean burn you will have a time delay because it takes some time for the heat to stack up at the turbine.

Sweet, that is great to hear! I really wish that I had not spent close to $400 last night on a new alternator, battery and other supplies It will have to wait for a while till I can replenish my funds.

I did not know that your high pressure turbo was that small. It seems to be more restrictive than the Black Top! Yet you get amazing results, no doubt because of your big turbo and tuning. It is good to know that I'm not going to be in boost on every small hill while lean burning

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by BabyDiesel

A DD turbo is what I am looking for. It is small and restrictive, but you have to remember that I am going to be running extremely lean AFRs with a Atkinson 3.5 valve setup, turning about 2000 rpm and needing only 3-5 horsepower during cruise due to extensive aero mods. The site says it is good for up too 250 ponies max @ 15 psi, but I'll adjust the wastegate to 5-7 psi to save my internals. I hope for 175 HPR max.



Sweet, that is great to hear! I really wish that I had not spent close to $400 last night on a new alternator, battery and other supplies It will have to wait for a while till I can replenish my funds.

I did not know that your high pressure turbo was that small. It seems to be more restrictive than the Black Top! Yet you get amazing results, no doubt because of your big turbo and tuning. It is good to know that I'm not going to be in boost on every small hill while lean burning

Its pretty small.lol Whats great about a turbo compound system is it acts like a VGT turbo on steroids. Great boost down low in the rpm when wanted, with great flow at the top of the rpm range.

[BabyDiesel]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

Its pretty small.lol Whats great about a turbo compound system is it acts like a VGT turbo on steroids. Great boost down low in the rpm when wanted, with great flow at the top of the rpm range.

I could see this becoming a factory option on some high-end diesel trucks/cars. I have heard that VGT turbos give more headache than fixed geometry turbos. This would be a benefit and great selling point to car companies.

Yesterday when I went to work, I could not help but park beside my boss's 3rd Gen. Prius and snap a picture.



17 years of technological advancement, and I match his fuel economy with $50 of material from Lowe's and soon I'll put it to shame!

[pgfpro]

Originally Posted by BabyDiesel

I could see this becoming a factory option on some high-end diesel trucks/cars. I have heard that VGT turbos give more headache than fixed geometry turbos. This would be a benefit and great selling point to car companies.

Yesterday when I went to work, I could not help but park beside my boss's 3rd Gen. Prius and snap a picture.



17 years of technological advancement, and I match his fuel economy with $50 of material from Lowe's and soon I'll put it to shame!

A couple manufacturers are working a few different DI, turbo compound, lean burn engines as we speak. The biggest issue will be cost, but i think the efficiency will pay off at the end?

[BabyDiesel]

Originally Posted by pgfpro

A couple manufacturers are working a few different DI, turbo compound, lean burn engines as we speak. The biggest issue will be cost, but i think the efficiency will pay off at the end?

I could see Honda doing such a thing on the 3rd gen Insight. Now that would be an awesome eco car!

Just curious Russell, would it be possible to run lean constantly with my supposed future setup? Such as 16.5-18:1 during accelerating and go 20-25:1 in a stable cruise setting?

Here's some of the work that was done over the weekend. Despite rain every single day, me and my daddy managed to get a new alternator on the Z, new battery, new Aero wipers, antifreeze topped off, oil changed, brakes serviced and the front belly pan modded! No pics of the alt. and battery, as they are your usual mundane swaps.



Double brake clips for better coasting!

Th effect of them has been small, but at least observable. Instead of losing speed slowly down certain familiar hills, now I maintain speed and even gain 0.5 mph! Gain is gain

Here is the mod I made to the belly pan.



Having it off for one day while driving made a huge difference in warm-up times. The temps s-l-o-w-l-y crept up to 175-180 and stabilized, even with a 75% grill block. But why cut ~12" off the back?

You might cannot see it, but the back of the pan curls up. IMO, this trapped air inside the engine bay and it cooked. My fan would kick on several times traveling home @ 220*, and this is with heated vent going, while in lean burn at night! Now the pan fits more snug to the bottom of the car and ventilation seems to be improved. My temps reached a high of 204* driving the same way and route as usual tonight This means I can get away with more grill block! Oh yeah

[pgfpro]

Nice work!!!

Just curious Russell, would it be possible to run lean constantly with my supposed future setup? Such as 16.5-18:1 during accelerating and go 20-25:1 in a stable cruise setting?

Yes very possible. I'm running in lean burn all the time except full load for max power. Even at mid load boost around 5 to 12 psi I'm at 16:1 A/F.