Electric Assist Project: E-charger (2000 Subaru Outback) - Page 10 - Fuel Economy, Hypermiling, EcoModding News and Forum

ShadeTreeMech · 08-24-2010, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daox

I'd suggest a good hole saw instead of a drill.

Definitely use a hole saw vs a spade bit. A spade bit is likely to grab the material and spin it wildly out of control, or twist the drill from your grasp. Major bad idea! Even if it were to work, it could possibly induce some stress cracks around the edges which could haunt you later.

If you don't need super high precision use a small bit to cut several smaller holes along the tracing of the 1" hole till you can punch the hole out with a hammer, then clean it up with a round file. You'll still get a good looking hole, and it won't cost much. Make sure to keep your bit cool with lube; I've found even old motor oil or vegetable oil works great for keeping a bit cool.

brucey · 08-25-2010, 06:24 PM

Got a hole saw set, but tested with a spade bit, the hole saw worked but the spade was easier, honestly.

Anywho, started cutting, it's starting to come together! I still need to make some adjustments and cut for the bolts.

Honestly, if I had it to do over at this point I'd make the front bracket again, it's not pretty now but it does work.

ShadeTreeMech · 08-25-2010, 09:11 PM

I wouldn't have thought a spade bit would do the job.....

I would worry more about strength and less about beauty. higher mpgs are a beautiful thing as well!

brucey · 08-26-2010, 03:42 PM

Well, the motor fits in place, and I'm ready to start drilling for the mounting holes, but the hole I made for the shaft is just a bit too small. Now I'm having trouble enlarging the hole with the other hole saws. They wont stay center with the drill bit in a 1" hole. A drill press would also work. Anywho, with the motor in place, even without the brackets finished, it fully supports the weight and even under starting/revving the engine doesen't hit the frame or hood. Very good!

I realize most of the problems I've had would be easily solved with a complete workshop, but alas, I do what I can with what I got.

Happy to report though my idler pulley has shipped, and I'm in talks with a maker of custom pulleys to make one to fit my shaft. Once done, fabrication for the motor will be basically at 100%, then onto wiring and finally onto batteries and racks in the trunk.

Dr. Jerryrigger · 08-26-2010, 06:44 PM

Great job!
To open the hole up a little I would suggest a rat-tail file. Aluminum is surprisingly easy to work with.
Going at it with a larger spade bit will be a mess, as you won't have the pilot spike to keep it from slipping. Hole drills will have a similar problem.
An alternative is using a large twist drill (an end-mill would be much better) in a hand drill and try and cut the edges down with the side of the bit. This gives sloppy results, and is kind of dangerous, but could get the job done. Some twist drills are made better for this than others, so if you go this rout; try all the larger bits of different makes you have access to until you find something that works (but you should really just use a file).

This seem like one of those projects that would take 1/20 of the time with a milling machine and proper tooling. It's always more frustrating knowing that there is a better way, which you don't have access to, but such is life.

brucey · 08-26-2010, 07:32 PM

I took the plate and set it on a block of wood, with the drill bit driving into the wood it was simple to keep it centered. I started drilling some of the bolt holes for it and gathered up the bolts. I should have the motor in the car tomorrow. I also think I'm going to have to have someone weld me up a T brace to attach to my intake manifold. I can't bend the 2" X 1/4" steel by myself.

That's all for today!

brucey · 08-27-2010, 10:07 PM

Ah, nothing quite says "Business" like grade 8 bolts and primer paintjobs.

I now plan to do an additional support bracket, wrapping from the bottom of the flat bracket up and around to the intake manifold, basically 'belting' the motor in place. I do not like how much slack is in the lateral momentous (It can twist just by hand, but is otherwise in there tight) so I'm going to play it safe here.

Don't want my motor twisting itself apart and damaging itself, or my engine

But yeah, when my idler pulley arrives next week it should be the last time I have to work on that front one. Then just the stay brackets to triangulate it and fabrication should be done. I can also now get dimensions for my custom pulley made now, and hopefully will have that one soon!

ShadeTreeMech · 08-28-2010, 03:11 AM

kewl looking job!

brucey · 08-30-2010, 08:30 PM

Alright, got my specs on the custom pulley out today and hopefully that should be arriving soon.

Other than that, the idler pulley should be arriving tomorrow and I'll be installing it, which should be the last time I need to take the front bracket off.

Dr. Jerryrigger · 09-01-2010, 02:33 PM

oh dear, metric and standard on the same print. I've spent the last few days dealing with the problems that can make... but it is necessary some times...

Edit:
Before you install the idler; think about the belt size! A measuring tape would be good to have handy, along with a model of your motor pulley (hunk of styrofoam?).