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Old 02-02-2014, 07:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tele man View Post
...sorta *implies* the use / insertion of either: (a) metering plate/orifice or (b) adjustable value to control/limit coolant flow at engine idle, but not at full load conditions.
Coolant flow at idle is generally marginal, so if you have a pump with suficient linear flow, why would you want to restrict coolant flow? The Thermostat controls the cooling and is the metering orifice limiting flow to the radiator.

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Old 03-01-2014, 10:02 AM   #12 (permalink)
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I have been there and done that. Stick with a belt driven pump.

I should have kept the belt driven pump, that would have made doing a alt belt removal a lot more possible for 2 reasons. I would be able to take the alt belt off, since there would be 2 belts, with out the water pump a single belt drives everything.
Having a mechanical water pump means there is 5 or 6 amps less electrical draw, running battery power only will last that much longer.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:22 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoyoyoda View Post
I thought about this last night.

I figured if you remove the current radiator and installed a smaller one, then completely removed the coolant thermostat from the cooling line. Then installed a cooling fan on the radiator, then the fan could act as a thermostat of sorts, and the engine would get up to operating temperature and stay there for longer and the limiter would be the electric cooling fan.

This way you could do a much more substantial partial grille block having only say a hole the size of a 12 inch laserdisc to open up.

Could even, depending upon the amount of space in the engine bay, do a slant-downwards radiator, which picks up air from underneath the front bumper and grille.

Then with one of these:
12V Thermostat Temperature Controller LCD W Regulator Sensor Control Incubate | eBay



In control of a "lip" which opens up and lets fresh air into the engine bay from underneath the front bumper bar, and closes when no longer needed. Controlled by a

Obviously some aluminium cowling to direct airflow into the radiator would be required, from underneath the front bumper.

Another idea Is to use water mist cooling to spray (using windscreen wiper sprays) onto the radiator and having a complete radiator grille block installed, the water evaporates (make sure it doesn't get onto the engine block or manifold!) and removes any heat from the engine.

Controlled by the same above 12v thermostat.

There would need to be a level gauge telling you when you gotta refill with water. I suggest installing a large water container in the boot of your car, possibly 40 liters in size.

Obviously a large amount of on-board water would be required at all times.
Why not just use a block heater? If anything I'd take it the other way and do a larger radiator or add an oil cooler if possible. This may allow for a full grill block even during summer heat.
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yoyoyoda View Post
Summers get to about 40-44c here.

Yes! you could use a larger radiator, it would certianly help introducing thermal mass to the cooling system, which is always a good thing, even running copper pipes and welding them to the chassis of the car to heatsink away all of that heat would be something I would be tempted to try.

But in my design it needs to operate during all conditions and the conditions down here murder any idea of a full grille block that I come up with, all of my ideas still require opening it up the front for some fresh air.

The water spray idea is one idea which would probably pass the "Australian outback" test, but it wouldn't last for any longer than say 100km into the outback without running out of water.
yikes. at those temps, going with a smaller system sounds like a recipe for problems.

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