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Old 06-05-2008, 09:03 PM   #121 (permalink)
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the weather has been crappy and i have no dry pace to work so i have not been able to get anything done.. kind of frustrating..

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Old 06-05-2008, 09:07 PM   #122 (permalink)
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the weather here has been sucking and i have no garage space so progress has been none.. kind of frustrating
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Old 06-05-2008, 09:31 PM   #123 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebacherville View Post
the weather here has been sucking and i have no garage space so progress has been none.. kind of frustrating
for us too
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:28 PM   #124 (permalink)
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any one have a clue on how much power (AMPS) the ignition coil on my little Honda draws.. going to pick up a switch for a cut out so i don't have to use the key all the time.. need to make sure the switch can handle the amps.. my estimate was maybe 8 amps?
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:12 PM   #125 (permalink)
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Quote:

power (AMPS) the ignition coil
Looking online I see max of 8 amps in general. But unless that honda has point ignition, I would suggest finding and interrupting the lead to the sensor that detects engine revolution in the distributer, or shut down power to the distributor completely. There used to be some circuit designs that were unhappy if the load (your coil) was removed, I have no idea if the honda is one of them.

If your honda has a carb, then interrupt the fuel shutoff solenoid if there is one as well. Last thing you need is to pull gas into the engine with no spark.

And yes, hurry up and do some more work and post pics. The suspense is killing us.
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:17 PM   #126 (permalink)
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my assumption was id wire it however the car naturally kills the motor.. assuming it was killing the power to the coil.... i guess ill be doing som etesting to figur out how the car shuts off the engine.. it is carbed.. I'll see if I can find that solenoid.. id assume it would have one. Just dont have any books or manuals for this thing..
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:26 PM   #127 (permalink)
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hopefully this weekend i can star the rear modifications.. need to cut out and extend the tail light mounts and wiring out to the desired length then the rest can begin.

I have also decided to place the muffler in the rear tail.. to get some crap from under the car.. this will allow for a cleaner underside in the car and allow me to place the exhaust directly into the slipstream..

The weather here sucks latly, we never get this crappy of weather for this long... it's been windy and stormy here all week, this morning the wipers on high could not keep up with the rain.. fricken monsoon! really noticed how much more the vacuum gauge was dropping towards 0 with all the water on the roads..
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Old 06-06-2008, 07:19 PM   #128 (permalink)
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Maybe you can cut off the fuel pump you could do some sort of "injector cutoff" kind of thing. You hit the switch to turn off the fuel pump while leaving it in gear for deceleration and when all the gas in the float bowl is burned up you could engine brake like a fuel injector car using no gas insead of at idle.

I don't think it would be a good idea to kill the pump and the ignition, while decelerating, as all the fuel in the float bowl would go out the exhaust unburned
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:02 PM   #129 (permalink)
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If the float bowl is emptied, it will take 5 to 10 seconds to get the car restarted.. The float bowl will have to be refilled...

Quote:
I have also decided to place the muffler in the rear tail.. to get some crap from under the car.. this will allow for a cleaner underside in the car and allow me to place the exhaust directly into the slipstream..
If you can increase the size of the muffler and reduce the back pressure of the exhaust system you will increase economy, because you will reduce the pumping loss the engine endures trying to push exhaust gasses out.. There is also a great opportunity to tune the exhaust system for best flow at the RPM you normally drive most of the time.

There is a pressure wave (compression, not transverse) in the exhaust system when the car runs.. the wavelength of the wave depends on the engine rpm. At certain RPMs , the wavelengh is an exact multiple of the lenght of the exhaust pipe. Ideally, you would have the negative (low pressure) part of the wave reflect from the end of the straight section of the exhaust pipe just before the muffler, and come back just in time for the next exhaust valve to open. If you have ever made compression waves in a slinky stretched on the floor you get the idea.
Here are some videos, the first is short, the second is long winded.
Unfortunatly they mostly show transvere waves, but compression waves work the same way.


If you do this you should again watch your plug colors, the engine may run lean with the extra airflow you will get.
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Old 06-06-2008, 11:10 PM   #130 (permalink)
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ebacherville,
Your documentation problem (kinda) solved for cheap..
http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Book...6x%3D0%26y%3D0
I always found the haynes to be better than chiltons, back before I knew I could get a manual right from toyota. A dealer service manual would be ideal, especially for wiring diagrams, but small chance finding a pdf online for something made before pdf files were around.. I wonder how much honda wants for a paper copy.


Last edited by ttoyoda; 06-06-2008 at 11:16 PM.. Reason: added content.
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