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Old 07-09-2015, 11:19 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Fixing some rust on the Metro

The Metro is slowly (actually, a lot faster than I'd like) dying the all too common death of rust. I got some pretty large holes in the rockers that are much worse than a year ago. It has the typical rear wheel well to bumper rust that is prone on so many vehicles, and it also has an ever enlarging bubble on the hood of the car that is now starting to peel.

Here are some pictures of when I first got the car last year. These rust areas are a lot worse now.









I'm really looking to sand these areas out, possibly add some putty if its pitted badly, prime and then spray it with a color matched paint. It doesn't need to be perfect, but I'd like it to be fairly close. I'm also NOT a body work kind of guy. I barely know the basics, and don't really have much experience. But, I'm willing to give it a shot.

So, does anyone have any tips/tricks?

Also, I'm planning on picking up a color matched spray can from here:
1999 Chevrolet Metro Colors of Touch Up Paint

If anyone has any other/better places to go I'm all ears. $30 (shipped) for a can of spray paint seems a bit steep, but dupli-color apparently doesn't make the scuba blue metallic that matches my paint and is available at the local autozone for $7 a can.

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Old 07-09-2015, 01:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'd start on the important stuff first: have you pulled the driver's side carpet up yet? No point prettying it up if the foundation needs shoring up.

I wouldn't commit to trying to spray/blend all the areas, especially the hood. It's not going to blend easily or well with the original paint, so you might want to resign yourself to dabbing those spots after flaking the paint off and sanding 'em down. Also: why is the hood rusting? Stone chips, or from the inside?

The rockers are a different story: it's a relatively small contiguous area, so once you repair the metal and smooth it out with filler if needed, you can spray the whole thing and it'll look decent, masking it off along the existing body line at the rear panel.

Regardless of what type of repairs you do, you gotta get a liberal amount of oil or some other anti-rust treatment regularly on the inside of the affected panels or it'll all be back this time next year.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Por15 it. it's the only thing that will stop the rust if you not completely cuting it out. And spray used oil into the areas from the inside when your done. That will help slow it down.

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Old 07-09-2015, 03:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Get after as much of the rust on the inside of the panel then see if you can get some rust converter on the places you can beyond that. One of my methods was to heat up gear oil and spray it on the backside of the effected panel. Also, mix kerosene and the wax from toilet base wax seals to make homemade rust barrier thats sticky and will endure longer.
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Old 07-09-2015, 03:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I do plan on cutting out the rust on the rockers and welding in new metal. I'll probably just shoot it black once I'm done.

I'm hoping I can remove most of the rust from the rear quarter panels and hood. I do have some eastwood rust converter that I'll use if I can't get it all up.
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Old 07-09-2015, 04:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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After sandblasting the rusty spots, it's always good to apply some rust-converter before you start painting anything just for some peace of mind. Anyway, I'd probably suggest you to cover the underbody with some rust-proof material, no matter if it's some ceramic-based stuff such as that Lizard Skin, or that Rhino Liner, or even those asphalt blankets used for home improvement if you would want to keep it cheap.
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Old 07-09-2015, 06:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Applying putty over rusted metal is like putting a band-aid on a gunshot wound. Unless you get rid of all of the rusted metal, it will just keep rotting out underneath the putty and paint.

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Old 07-09-2015, 08:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Before you do any work to it take the front seats and carpet out as well as the plastic side panels covering the back inner fenders. Chances are you will find way more rust needing fixed. Just don't panic and give up. It isn't hard to weld it all back together it just takes time. The rockers are structural so make sure they are patched up solid.
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote X View Post
The rockers are structural so make sure they are patched up solid.
Guess this means it's time to weld in structural side skirts
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
I'd start on the important stuff first: have you pulled the driver's side carpet up yet? ...
........
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coyote X View Post
Before you do any work to it take the front seats and carpet out as well as the plastic side panels covering the back inner fenders. .......
all good info. here are vids on it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=yout...utf-8&oe=utf-8
i've watched a lot of rust repair shows and it's a hard thing to stop, esp it you don't stop it from beginning.
i really like this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kafer65 View Post
Get after as much of the rust on the inside of the panel then see if you can get some rust converter on the places you can beyond that. One of my methods was to heat up gear oil and spray it on the backside of the effected panel. Also, mix kerosene and the wax from toilet base wax seals to make homemade rust barrier thats sticky and will endure longer.
i use the cheap can undercoat, mix with diesel or used motor oil, put in pressure sprayer and coat unpainted under-body parts on the truck.
i used to have access to wax seals but didn't know what to do with them. now i do!

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Last edited by deejaaa; 07-09-2015 at 11:28 PM..
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