Friedlbug's e-bike build thread

[friedlbug]

Is there any special trick to getting the mended link to not be too tight after closing the chain with the chain rivet tool? I've tried to get the rivet back in just right, but no amount of adjustment seems to get that link as smooth as the others.

[jwxr7]

Originally Posted by friedlbug

Is there any special trick to getting the mended link to not be too tight after closing the chain with the chain rivet tool? I've tried to get the rivet back in just right, but no amount of adjustment seems to get that link as smooth as the others.

I usually flex the chain back and forth in the sideways direction (the way it isn't meant to bend)to loosen the newly pinned joint up.
Hope that helps

[friedlbug]

Thanks for the suggestion for the chain. I'll try it.

As far as the wiring, I found a DPDT switch with a center off position at Radio Shack today and am wondering if I could simplify the schematic like this (not sure if that's the correct way to depict the switch, but it should be logical at least):

Any ideas?

[MetroMPG]

I don't see why that new switch config won't work.

What's the switch rated for? Without a controller to limit current, a switched setup can potentially draw quite a bit of current under stall/high load conditions. Not sure what's typically seen on a 24v e-bike though.

[friedlbug]

The switch is rated for 20A at 12V.

[H4MM3R]

350W/24V=15A.

20A*12V=240W

Not sure what your trying to do here. Are you working with 12V or 24V system?

[sharp21]

I believe its set up so that the 24v gives you the acceleration/cruising, while the 12v is switched on for regen when going down hills.
Correct me if im wrong
S.

[friedlbug]

Originally Posted by sharp21

I believe its set up so that the 24v gives you the acceleration/cruising, while the 12v is switched on for regen when going down hills.
Correct me if im wrong
S.

That's basically it. The only thing I'd add is a 12V step in acceleration from a pedal start, assuming it has anything to add running at 12V.

Hammer, my point about the switch rating is that I'll be a little under the current rating and twice the voltage rating. I'll test it thoroughly first.

Also, I thought of a problem with using the center off DPDT switch configured like the schematic above: The charging socket won't work - it'll just spin the motor. There has to be a switch to take the motor out of the circuit. Back to two switches.

[H4MM3R]

Thanks for helping me understand.

[sharp21]

Here is a pretty sweet homebuild:
http://www.peltzer.net/ebike/
Its got a huge motor & sweet belt drive!
S.