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Old 01-06-2014, 05:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Front wheel well cover

I am slowly starting to make plans for the front bumper on my lupo 3l that I will make this summer in glass fiber.
In that process I was thinking about making front wheel well deflecter but then I saw aerocivics car and the total well covers.

Does this have an impact on brakes and other mechanics inside the well ?? Is it safe to do

If you make the covers could you address the possible heat issue with some air tubes from the front bumper leading the air into the well ??

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Old 01-06-2014, 05:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Walbum View Post
I am slowly starting to make plans for the front bumper on my lupo 3l that I will make this summer in glass fiber.
In that process I was thinking about making front wheel well deflecter but then I saw aerocivics car and the total well covers.

Does this have an impact on brakes and other mechanics inside the well ?? Is it safe to do

If you make the covers could you address the possible heat issue with some air tubes from the front bumper leading the air into the well ??
*The leakage of air between the tire and wheel well should be sufficient to carry the heat rejected from the brakes under 'normal' stopping.
*The brake rotors themselves should have enough mass to store the frictional energy of a full, panic-stop without warpage.
*The wheel bearing grease should be good to 250-degrees F.
*If you have access to an infrared,remote pyrometer,you could measure the actual hub temperatures on the car after a hard stop.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*Under steady highway driving,the friction energy is a function of power transferred,and with reduced aerodynamic drag,the required road load horsepower is also reduced,so in effect,everything runs cooler.
*If you 'build light',you won't be adding significant mass/ inertia,the kinetic energy of which, must be dissipated as heat under hard deceleration.
*Dedicated ram-air cooling ducts from the forward stagnation area to the rotors could always be added should you feel the need.
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Old 01-06-2014, 06:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Looks like a sure recipe to perish in a fireball of death.
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:22 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Looks like a sure recipe to perish in a fireball of death.
Care to explain frank ?
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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How hard do you use your brakes?
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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You could even go with some forced air cooling fer the brakes...automatically activated when the temp rises above a certain temp.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:39 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Frank I try to use them as little as possible..
The transmission in lupo 3l is a Manuel transmission with an automated changer. The lupo engine breaks a lot because of that.
The lupo 3l came stock with 15mm break discs to save weight but pretty much everyone here in Denmark switch to 18mm discs as the caliber is from a vw polo and can handle 18mm.
For heat issues I could even go for ventilated discs if heat on the discs is a problem.
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You should have sufficient airflow under the car hitting your tire and wheel on the inside, unless you have added deflectors or something else similar in front of them. Remember the air flow under the front part of your car is typically at about a 30 degree angle.

---DELETED---
Someone asked about forced air brake cooling using ducts. These create constant drag as they constantly are ducting the air cooling the brakes whether they need it or not. I explain a way to use the brake light signal to turn on/off the ducts, so that they do not create drag when they are not needed. Apparently this is not welcome.
---DELETED---

Last edited by aardvarcus; 01-08-2014 at 09:06 AM..
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:51 PM   #9 (permalink)
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These Rube Goldberg solutions are slaying me! We don't even know if the brakes get hot yet.

Do you drive in heavy city traffic, or up and down mountains? Is the vehicle heavily loaded or is it mostly just you inside? I'm a flatlander, mostly lightly loaded car, small towns and highway driving. I go over 100,000 miles on a set of brake pads. For me, the times the brakes get hottest are when the road salt causes corrosion such that the calipers don't release. Other than that, I don't turn much gasoline into braking heat. If that is you too, then don't worry about it.
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Old 01-07-2014, 03:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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here ia project I did on front air ducts.....
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...kes-18011.html

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http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...e-10912-2.html

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http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post247938
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