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Old 01-06-2011, 01:36 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Weather Spotter View Post
Good ideas! keep them coming
...If not what do I need to do to protect the tail from rotting, warping etc?
Hi Weather Spotter,

The foam board that you are using is very stable over time, IF you keep the sunlight off it.

That means sealing the light from the foam via some sort of paint coating, like Latex as the first layer, and this should be done inside and out. Any reflected light will degrade the foam over time and bleach the surface, and cause the material to shrink slightly. Touching this surface will then cause "sand flaking" almost like sawdust.

Completely covering the foam with fiberglass and resin is preferred over simply painting the surface. Yes it takes more time but gives a much better completed project.

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Old 01-06-2011, 01:46 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Hi,

I looked at your latest pictures and saw some of the gaps that you want to fill.

Balsa wood would be an excellent way to fill these areas, but keep in mind that the wood will still need to be covered with glass when you are done.

I ordered some 2.5 ounce glass from one of the big supply houses for treating gaps such as you refer to.

Even with glass this thin, there are many places where it does not want to stay flat in areas with tight bends.

Here's the patience part:

What I had to do was wet out the glass, place it as desired, then work the area over with a hair dryer set on medium. Too hot and I could affect the soft foam underneath.

Keep working the area until the resin gets real sticky. At this point you need to keep working the cloth until it stays tight in the high-bend areas. Once the resin is tacky like tape, your done, so just sit back and let it completely setup.

Lots of work and patience, but really nice results when you are done!!

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Old 01-06-2011, 01:47 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Thanks for the feedback. I will look into the idea of painting the gaffer tape.
3-wheeler, thanks for the tip on the foam, For now I think I will just paint it, I might do more latter on.

My first car had more bondo then sheet metal too. It would fall off every year but that was due to more rusting. the bondo never had time to fail.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:00 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weather Spotter View Post
Good ideas! keep them coming

@ redneck

The floor jack and pin idea is good for getting the hitch in, but the top brackets need the back pushed up and in as the tail wants to sag away from the top edge of the car.
After you get the hitch slid in, move the jack back and use it to lift the back of the boat tail. You can drill a shallow blind hole in one of the cross members, then get a rod or pin the right length and use the hole in the jack
again. Or make a Tee bracket out of pipe, cover the top of the Tee with foam pipe insulation so it won't slip or damage the tail, insert the bottom into the jack and jack away...

Spray foam can always be rasped into shape after it is fully cured. Unfortunately, it is damaged easily if it is not covered with fiberglass.

You will have to experiment with the weather stripping as there are many different types.

>
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:12 PM   #95 (permalink)
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Good ideas for a floor jack, I just might try it.

As for the gaps, I think I will try my 9/16" weather stripping and see how that works. I also found a roll of clear tape (might be gaffer might not be) which I may also use. Add a tube of caulk to fill seal up the foam to wood seam by the back window hinges and to go over the bolts at the top mounts and I should have a water resistant boat tail. Nothing man made is water proof, water allays wins in the long run but this "should" make it usable.

Is anyone interested in a video clip of it while driving? I still have my mount from my matrix owners how I drive clip. It is a bit high for a clear view out the rear window but will get most of the view.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:17 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Make sure you give the back end of the car a good waxing. A good coat of wax will make it a lot easier to remove any tape remnants, adhesives, etc.
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:20 PM   #97 (permalink)
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good point, I have not waxed the car in like 6 months. I have a funny feeling that the local car wash will not allow my car through, so I will have to do it myself (when it is above freezing) so say in two months .
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:35 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Day 7 update

I rested from all the work of creating I have done
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Old 01-06-2011, 03:51 PM   #99 (permalink)
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The model train industry has a product that spreads like drywall spackling but is light, around the same density and feel of foam board. It's usually used to make foam mountains smoother and hide seams. It's also non-shrinking and sandable after you've worked it into it's spot and let it cure. If you hit a hobby shop that carries train supplies, I bet they'd know what it's called. Probably not cheap, but good for the little gaps.
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Old 01-06-2011, 04:31 PM   #100 (permalink)
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It is called foam putty. It seems like it might work. It is $6.70 + $6.80 shipping for a pint at amazon:
Amazon.com: Foam Putty, Pint: Toys & Games

Here is the product description:
* Foam Putty's special formula makes it ideal for use with foam.
* The consistency and characteristics of Foam Putty are similar to foam, making sanding, carving and painting easy.
* Fill cracks, sculpt or carve, sands smooth.
* 16 oz. plastic container with locking lid.

Does this sound like what I might need?

I did some Google work and it looks like you can make your own:
eBay.ie Guides - Homemade Foam Modelling Putty

Anyone know how to make foam putty/magic foam? - Yahoo! Answers

Thoughts?

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