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Old 08-01-2012, 01:55 PM   #241 (permalink)
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euromodder; if ya can't beat 'em, join 'em!
Won't happen with Hägar the Hitchless.

I'd need to get a hitch and get a technical check out due to fitting a hitch, which would cost a lot more than the boattail would save in fuel.

Even then, I can only make one that's disguised as a bike or wheelchair carrier, and then only 1m / 3,3' long.
Local regulations don't allow any other kind of extension, not even cargo racks.

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Old 08-01-2012, 07:20 PM   #242 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Weather Spotter View Post
So tc. When are going to build a tail?
I know you've seen his thread http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...ail-22780.html .

I'm going to check out your rear window when I get there. I'm looking for brainstorming material.

Sorry to hear that euromodder. Stealthy mods only for you.
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Old 08-05-2012, 06:50 PM   #243 (permalink)
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JethroBodine:
No I had not seen his thread, I think he was trying to hide it from me

What ideas for a back window do you want? I like what I have but making one that opens, adds water sealing issues. mine is leak free right now, but its been an ongoing issue that I have fixed issue by issue over the last 18 months.

Well for an update:

I decided that my coroplast floor in the tail was not strong enough for much loading, and if I needed to access the spare tire area (jumper cables too) I have to crawl out into the tail. I also wanted to make it flat from car to tail. There was about 3/4 to 1" of drop to the tail. Depending on the grass at Tango's house I might have to use the car as my tent for our meet up in September, and the 1" of drop is annoying for that. So time to fix it:

Old out and new front to back support in place (2x4 ripped in half):




With front bracing in place:




I used some old book case 1x12 wood I had in the shop. it is stained so it will resist some moisture and look nicer then bare wood.




screwed in:


I also decided to replace the back piece of chloroplast as it gets dented when objects in the tail decide to slide back. it also was not holding up to sunlight well. the same wood as the floor will help and add some structural bracing to the back.






Now I can climb out to the end of the tail and not have anything break I do not think I want to put a load out there for long times but its strong enough to use it if I need to.

I am looking for cheep and nice looking options for the sides to hide the blue insulation. thoughts?

Now if I can figure out how to rig a curtain back there I will have a camper as well as a car
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:23 PM   #244 (permalink)
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How about velcro on the inside of the supports and ready made curtains with velcro also on them? That's what I'm planning for mine. That and a velcro curtain dropping behind the front seats.

Maybe out door carpeting to cover the insulation? I bought some pretty big chunks for not much money( don't remember exactly) for flooring on my home made party boat. Cut to fit and staple in place.

Love the wood floor. Dude, if you can rip 2x4s in half, I'm not gonna mess with you.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:31 PM   #245 (permalink)
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Velcro is a great idea!
My mom suggested different curtains for each seasion.

Where did you buy the outdoor carpet?

About the wood, I like the floor too. On hot days it smells like wood, not fiberglass.

As for 2x4's

Have table saw, will cut, rirrrrrrrrrr
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:55 PM   #246 (permalink)
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I bought the carpet at Home Depot. I think it was 6'x9' for $10 or something close. I got the grayish one, but I think there were other colors.

Meant to say that. Must have been thinking it really loudly.
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Old 08-07-2012, 09:00 AM   #247 (permalink)
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I have been doing that loud thinking a lot of late. Its annoying. I will have to take a look.
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Old 08-07-2012, 08:05 PM   #248 (permalink)
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well my car to tail transition needs some work, its leaking again

I am trying to avoid the strong temptation to just fiberglass right to the car. I still want a vestige of being able to take it off.

just tossing some ideas out, share your please!

Vinal (car wrap the transition) how much gap can this cover?

smooth out the transition and use silicone to fill it in. Adhesion issues?

cut out 2-3 inches of fiberglass and spray foam the gap and reglass up to the car, leaving a small patch of foam exposed.

or toss hat in and fiberglass it right to the car.
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Old 08-08-2012, 12:01 AM   #249 (permalink)
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Woof, I don't think I'd fiberglass it TO the car.
If you've got a decent coat of wax on the car, I think silicone caulk would be the ticket. It would seal it up, but be removable with a little elbow grease.
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Old 08-08-2012, 03:16 AM   #250 (permalink)
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I had the same sort of issues with my aero cap sealed to the cab. I'm guessing that since yer extension is moving/shifting, any seal you have attached to the car side will eventually break free. I tried securing lots of different things to the cab side with little success. I finally went with gap seal on the aero cap side. Keeping it tight to the cab was key to keeping water from leaking past the seal. I used some bungee cord to keep the tension on my gap cover...
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...tml#post314394

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